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Old June 12th, 2012, 09:20 AM   #1
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Default 71 Bronco with 302 F.I. issues

I just did a drivetrain swap in my 71 Bronco and it runs but not right.

I need to check the pinouts for the fuel injectors to make sure they are wired correctly. I went through about 90% of the wiring harness to make sure it was all done correctly and eliminated a bunch of unnecessary splices and extra lengths of wire.

It did this before I swapped the motors so I am thinking wiring, computer or injectors but I did have it running good last summer but maybe a bit rich then too.

It seems to not be running on all cylinders and the exhaust smells very rich.

I will be spending time on it this week and weekend to try and find the problem.

If anyone has experience with this and wants to come by to help diagnose the issue I can pay and or have beer for the help.

Last edited by firehawk; June 12th, 2012 at 12:51 PM.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 05:33 PM   #2
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Do you still have the salt and pepper shaker connectors on the harness? I wasn't getting 2 of my injectors to fire and went through the whole pinning out process and it was just the connection at those connectors was a little loose. Pull them apart, clean real good and throw some good grease in there and hopefully that will do it.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 09:00 PM   #3
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Do you still have the salt and pepper shaker connectors on the harness? I wasn't getting 2 of my injectors to fire and went through the whole pinning out process and it was just the connection at those connectors was a little loose. Pull them apart, clean real good and throw some good grease in there and hopefully that will do it.
Nope, those are deleted. This is a redone factory harness that has everything not needed deleted.

I have had running issues with it on and off but always ended up getting it running good. Once it was just putting a new battery in it.

I plan to find out which cylinders are firing and which are not and swap plugs, wires and injectors to see what might be causing this.

I just wish it was running a month ago but have had a lot going on lately.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 09:12 PM   #4
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Is it a MAF or MAP setup? I assume you removed egr stuff when you did the harness...I had to run a EGR simulator on mine to trick the ecm into thinking the EGR was still on. What color injectors you using? DO you know the size? What ecm is it? Lots of things it could be at this point. Make sure the O2's are getting power. DId you check voltage at the TPS to make sure it is sweeping right and reading correct voltage at idle?
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Old June 13th, 2012, 11:41 AM   #5
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Is it a MAF or MAP setup? I assume you removed egr stuff when you did the harness...I had to run a EGR simulator on mine to trick the ecm into thinking the EGR was still on. What color injectors you using? DO you know the size? What ecm is it? Lots of things it could be at this point. Make sure the O2's are getting power. DId you check voltage at the TPS to make sure it is sweeping right and reading correct voltage at idle?

It is MAF.

No EGR and I think there are resistors in place to simulate that.

Injectors are orange and I imagine they are the stock 19lb

A9p computer

I will be checking those things next.



The fuel injectors tick when I touch the positive battery cable to the battery with the negative already hooked up, is this normal?

I have a constant check engine light on, not flashing and the computer does not go into selk check mode.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 02:20 PM   #6
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I would make sure the EGR has the simulator first off. Without it you will have a light on at all times.

Check your ignition timing with the spout in and out to verify the ecm is taking control of timing duties.

Make sure you dont have any sharp bends in your inlet right before or after the MAF{within 2-3inches}. if there is and no way to change it try rotating the MAF so the sensor eliment picks up the airflow in different spots since the airflow will flow weird in the inlet with a few turns thrown into the mix.

Also..Im not 100% sure on this but...the truck motors came in Speed Density which was a batch fire and then with MAF which is sequencel firing. I believe the harness for the injectors would be different between the two and if they are mixed up could cause the injector to fire way out of sync. I may be way off with this but its worth looking into I think.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 02:34 PM   #7
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I would make sure the EGR has the simulator first off. Without it you will have a light on at all times.

Check your ignition timing with the spout in and out to verify the ecm is taking control of timing duties.

Make sure you dont have any sharp bends in your inlet right before or after the MAF{within 2-3inches}. if there is and no way to change it try rotating the MAF so the sensor eliment picks up the airflow in different spots since the airflow will flow weird in the inlet with a few turns thrown into the mix.

Also..Im not 100% sure on this but...the truck motors came in Speed Density which was a batch fire and then with MAF which is sequencel firing. I believe the harness for the injectors would be different between the two and if they are mixed up could cause the injector to fire way out of sync. I may be way off with this but its worth looking into I think.


I had the motor that was previously in the Bronco running good. I have also had problems with it in the past and was always able to get it running good.

Need to check a few wires tonight and possibly swap out the computer.

Is there a scan tool or program other than the tweecer to see what it going on while the engine is running?
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Old June 13th, 2012, 05:41 PM   #8
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I havent seen a good scan tool that worked for crap on any of the older pre-OBD2 stuff.
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Old June 15th, 2012, 11:29 AM   #9
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I have a spare computer that has a fried capacitor that I am going to fix and try this weekend.
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Old June 15th, 2012, 12:03 PM   #10
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what wiring harness are you using? stock or aftermarket like painless?
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Old June 17th, 2012, 11:42 AM   #11
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what wiring harness are you using? stock or aftermarket like painless?
Its a stock one that was redone to eliminate the unneeded stuff. I am going to try a different coil next.


Edit: I am not getting spark during crank but when I let go of the key it does spark. Any ideas why? I have power to the distributor and when the key is on and I rotate the distributor it does spark.

Last edited by firehawk; June 17th, 2012 at 01:46 PM.
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Old June 17th, 2012, 01:48 PM   #12
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You have the ECM main power wire hooked to the wrong ignition wire. The ECM should have one 12v constant and I think two wires that are 12v switched at the ignition. Check those cuz one of them is dead while cranking obviously
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Old June 17th, 2012, 01:49 PM   #13
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You have the ECM main power wire hooked to the wrong ignition wire. The ECM should have one 12v constant and I think two wires that are 12v switched at the ignition. Check those cuz one of them is dead while cranking obviously
Will check that, thanks.
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Old June 17th, 2012, 09:49 PM   #14
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Looks like it was a bad EEC relay. Been trying to track down the problem for two weeks and now she runs pretty damn good. Gotta finish up a few things and hope for a maiden voyage this week.
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Old June 25th, 2012, 08:03 AM   #15
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Put a new harness in it yesterday and it still runs like crap.

Tried a different ignition coil, nope

Put different plug wires on it, the mallory ones were showing 8-10 ohms, the ones I put on were at about 1.1-1.3 ohms. Maybe a little better but popping out the exhaust still.

Was going to try a different distributor but one from a 351 doesn't fit.

Thinking possible fuel injector issue, maybe stuck open if that is possible.

I have a few computers so tonight I will try a different one.


I am also having the same problem as before the harness swap and that is the
wire that was labeled 12v ignition has to be on constant power for it to stay running if i put it on start only it will fire but die when I let go of the key and it is in run position.

Have some more testing to do tonight and hopefully I can do some burnouts before the end of the week. This is very frustrating.


But over the weekend I did drive by Big E's at the Holiday Inn. I laughed.
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Old June 25th, 2012, 09:10 AM   #16
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I wish I had more time I would come down and help make it rite
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Old June 25th, 2012, 09:11 AM   #17
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What motor is it again? Intake?
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Old June 25th, 2012, 09:11 AM   #18
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Your getting popping out the exhaust? I do not know your skill level so please dont be offended if Im covering stuff you already know.

That can only happen a couple ways. Make sure you have the correct firing order. 351w and 5.0's that use a High Output cam or a cam made for roller lifters will use the same firing order,any non-H.O. 302 will use the older firing order for 302's only.I would try it wired both ways to see.

Cross fire between the wires will do this but that sounds like you have that covered now with new wires.

An exhaust valve hanging open off the seat will pop like that also.Are you using stock non-adjustable rocker arms or stud mounted rockers?
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Old June 25th, 2012, 09:17 AM   #19
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I wish I had more time I would come down and help make it rite
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What motor is it again? Intake?
Thanks.

302 out of 99 Mountaineer, so it has the Gt-40 intake but not the tubular one, its cast.

Last edited by firehawk; June 25th, 2012 at 09:24 AM.
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Old June 25th, 2012, 09:21 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
Your getting popping out the exhaust? I do not know your skill level so please dont be offended if Im covering stuff you already know.

That can only happen a couple ways. Make sure you have the correct firing order. 351w and 5.0's that use a High Output cam or a cam made for roller lifters will use the same firing order,any non-H.O. 302 will use the older firing order for 302's only.I would try it wired both ways to see.

Cross fire between the wires will do this but that sounds like you have that covered now with new wires.

An exhaust valve hanging open off the seat will pop like that also.Are you using stock non-adjustable rocker arms or stud mounted rockers?

I have tried both firing orders but looked it up online and it showed the 99 motor uses standard firing, I have tried it both ways several times and with the HO firing order it doesnt seem to like it as much.

The motor is all stock including rockers. I wanted to get it running good before I add rockers and who knows what else.

I think its close but something it not working right.

I have verified the timing with a timing light so its at least close.

This motor ran great when I pulled it about 5 years ago, been sitting on a stand ever since, it has about 130,000 miles.


It does have the newer mass air meter and throttle body, not sure if that would throw anything else off. If I were to guess I would say maybe from 95. Not the 93 stuff.
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