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Old June 26th, 2012, 03:27 PM   #1
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Default J10 axles under an XJ

I have been wanting to get a set of d44's front and back to replace the d30 and 8.25 on my 98 XJ. A guy I work with has a 1981 J10 with d44's. Front has driver side diff like the Xj and the rear is center diff. I know they were leaf spring front but I can convert all that over. I want to go wider so the width isnt an issue. I just want to know if its a doable swap. He said I can have everything for $300.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 12:17 PM   #2
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No one has done this?
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Old June 27th, 2012, 12:23 PM   #3
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If you want to weld on brackets and it's drivers drop it should work fine
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Old June 27th, 2012, 01:35 PM   #4
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The rear is likely an AMC 20 and not a D44 unless it's an odd ball from the factory or it's been swapped in. Not really a big deal except I believe the lowest gears available are 4.88s, which may or may not be a big deal to you.

Pretty much anything is doable.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:19 PM   #5
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Yeah I need to run 4.56 so that will be fine. I'm going to go look at it. What's the major difference between the amc 20 and the d44?
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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:24 PM   #6
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They are pretty much equal in strength when it comes to the versions used in full-sized jeeps. Similar to Corporate 10-bolt vs Dana 44 in GM trucks; it's just AMC's version of the old stand-by.

The CJs had AMC 20s that had a 2-piece axle that is more prone to failure, but the FSJ versions always had 1-piece axles like a D44.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:29 PM   #7
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Sounds good to me. I haven't been able to find info on the width of the j10 axles. Anyone have any info?
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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:35 PM   #8
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I sourced a set of 44s from a 78-79 J10 or J20 for a project. The inner axles are longer than Waggy 44s, at least in my case. They were 6-lug as well, which may or may not be an issue for you.

If you can get the BOM number from the axles, I can tell you exactly what it came from the factory with. BOM is 6 digits, starts with 61.... or 60.... and may have another digit after the main six numbers.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:40 PM   #9
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Where is the BOM number? 6 lug isn't an issue. I have plenty of Chevy wheels. Probably going to get the whole truck for $400. Said $300 for just the axles so ill part out the rest. Anyone know what drive shafts to use? U-joints should be the same I'm guessing.

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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:47 PM   #10
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The rear is going to be 65" wide WMS-WMS the front will be a couple inches narrower.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 02:57 PM   #11
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Here's a shot of where I found the BOM on the front D44.


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as you can see (or not see), the BOM number can be hard to find. This is the typical location - on the long side tube (yes, this is a pass side drop), on the same side as the dif cover right next to the dif.

I've found them in other locations too...

Don't be too aggressive trying to clean it up or you might grind away the numbers.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 03:11 PM   #12
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Ok. Thanks. I will take a look.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 03:43 PM   #13
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the amc 20 has a bigger ring gear then a dana 44 8.9(i think) oposed to 8.5 inches
and the 44 has one more spline then the 20, 30vs29
oh and in case you didnt know the 20 has a round cover
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Old June 27th, 2012, 03:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbon View Post
Where is the BOMB number? 6 lug isn't an issue. I have plenty of Chevy wheels. Probably going to get the whole truck for $400. Said $300 for just the axles so ill part out the rest. Anyone know what drive shafts to use? U-joints should be the same I'm guessing.
The Wags of that era that I've worked on had a 1310 CV style up front and a 1310 non-cv in the back.

Worst case would be a 1310 non-cv in the front. So it should match up to your XJ.

One thing to take a look at if you buy the truck to scrap is that you can commonly sell the front leafs for $50-$100 depending on condition.

If the t-case is an NP-208 (2hi, N, 4hi, 4lo) then you could swap it in place of an NP-231. The benefit is that it used the same input (23-spline) as 4.0 jeeps, same low range, and comes with a fixed yoke from the factory instead of the slip yoke.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 04:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyJ View Post
The Wags of that era that I've worked on had a 1310 CV style up front and a 1310 non-cv in the back.

Worst case would be a 1310 non-cv in the front. So it should match up to your XJ.

One thing to take a look at if you buy the truck to scrap is that you can commonly sell the front leafs for $50-$100 depending on condition.

If the t-case is an NP-208 (2hi, N, 4hi, 4lo) then you could swap it in place of an NP-231. The benefit is that it used the same input (23-spline) as 4.0 jeeps, same low range, and comes with a fixed yoke from the factory instead of the slip yoke.
If it does have the 208 he'll need a 7/8" spacer to bolt it up. The long fixed input housing of the FSJ NP cases doesn't play well with the XJ transmissions in that aspect.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 08:36 PM   #16
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That sucks. I was under the impression it was a bolt-in affair. Sorry for the bad advice.
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Old June 29th, 2012, 06:25 AM   #17
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Went and looked at the truck lastnight. Dana 44 in the front and amc 20 in the rear. He has a rear d44 that should be the same width for the same price. Not bad, $300 for a set of 44's.
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