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Old June 8th, 2012, 12:29 PM   #1
chasetheface123
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Default 2 Point Hoist

What are a few good ones? Looking for ~8,000 pound range. I have found a few online, but would like some advice. Looking for something 220, single phase. Would like to stay under the 3k budget if possible.


ANy thoughts on this one:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6511_200436511
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Old June 8th, 2012, 01:49 PM   #2
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Most will be 220/1 ph, but it's a good thing to ask because they do pop up.

If it's for a home, I'd actually call some local lift retailers and ask if they have used ones. Name brand used lifts have a pretty long lifespan (and will have parts available). I just purchased a 9000 lb Rotary SPOA9 a while back, the thing looks brand new, paid $1850 for it. That's a close to $5000 lift by the time it's at your house if purchased new. It took a bit of searching, but they're out there, a lot even cheaper than what I paid for mine.

Any lift you buy you want to have the ALI sticker on it (automotive lift institute), if it doesn't have one it's shady Chinese stuff, walk away. http://www.autolift.org/cert.htm That doesn't mean all from China are junk, as long as they have that sticker on them they meet the U.S. strength/failure requirements.

As for the lift you linked to, it's ok. Some frown on the chain lift as opposed to straight hydraulic cylinders. I've never been a fan of the floorplate because it's harder to roll stuff through between the posts. But if you have limited celing height then it's what you gotta do.

I'll mention this anyways, CONCRETE. If you don't know EXACTLY what PSI and thickness your's is, pour new. Humans squish easily.

Is this one Symmetric or Asymmetric?
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/As...Two-Post-Lifts (linked just in case)
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Old June 8th, 2012, 02:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ledd View Post
Most will be 220/1 ph, but it's a good thing to ask because they do pop up.

If it's for a home, I'd actually call some local lift retailers and ask if they have used ones. Name brand used lifts have a pretty long lifespan (and will have parts available). I just purchased a 9000 lb Rotary SPOA9 a while back, the thing looks brand new, paid $1850 for it. That's a close to $5000 lift by the time it's at your house if purchased new. It took a bit of searching, but they're out there, a lot even cheaper than what I paid for mine.

Any lift you buy you want to have the ALI sticker on it (automotive lift institute), if it doesn't have one it's shady Chinese stuff, walk away. http://www.autolift.org/cert.htm That doesn't mean all from China are junk, as long as they have that sticker on them they meet the U.S. strength/failure requirements.

As for the lift you linked to, it's ok. Some frown on the chain lift as opposed to straight hydraulic cylinders. I've never been a fan of the floorplate because it's harder to roll stuff through between the posts. But if you have limited celing height then it's what you gotta do.

I'll mention this anyways, CONCRETE. If you don't know EXACTLY what PSI and thickness your's is, pour new. Humans squish easily.

Is this one Symmetric or Asymmetric?
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/As...Two-Post-Lifts (linked just in case)

That helped a lot! Thanks a ton. I will surely be calling around to see if there are any used ones. The floor plate shouldn't be a big deal for me, because its a fairly large garage, so I wont be rolling too much around underneath. Height is an issue, sadly. As far as concrete goes, my dad used to work for road managment/construction company, and we have a 7-9" floor, at 3000psi I believe. I will have to ask him. And thank you for point out the symmetric vs asymmetric, I never would have even though about that!
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Old June 8th, 2012, 04:01 PM   #4
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I also have a Rotary 9k hoist (asymetrical) and it's 16 years old. I paid $1800 for it a few months back and it too looked very nice once I cleaned it all up from sitting for three years. I can go online and still get every piece and part for it. Love it!
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Old June 8th, 2012, 05:35 PM   #5
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My dad has an eagle symmetrical 9k, it's a nice hoist, I would consider it again. Rotary and bend pak both make a very nice professional grade unit. All good hoists are the same, the differences are in the arms and the arm movement locks. This is what sets the units apart and can keep you satisfied with your purchase for a long time to come. Some arms are low profile, others are square, some you can stand on, others have an angled support. There are a ton of lock styles out there, interlocking teeth, all thread, etc. Pay close attention to the pads too.

Post up what you end up with!
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Old June 9th, 2012, 11:01 AM   #6
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I will do that for sure! Thank you very much!
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Old June 9th, 2012, 11:52 PM   #7
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pick up a auto rv trader the free one...there are several differant ads in there and going price is right around 1200 on up
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Old June 12th, 2012, 04:25 PM   #8
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I picked up one of these a couple years ago and it has worked great for me. I believe it was $1900 out the door and took me and my 8 year old less than 10 hours to put together. The only complaint I could have is the drop is slow.
http://www.aresco.org/9000ae_fe.html
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Old August 13th, 2012, 10:55 AM   #9
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I have a height restriction in my garage so I am considering one of these. When I see the Rotary's going for close to $5K, this price concerns me. But then I see KB8YMF has an Eagle which he likes. Comments?

http://www.eagleequip.com/product/MTP-9F.html
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Old August 13th, 2012, 11:24 AM   #10
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I can't stand that plate on the floor. I have seen some people put the uprights into the attic area to get a clear floor. Just a thought.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 12:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I can't stand that plate on the floor. I have seen some people put the uprights into the attic area to get a clear floor. Just a thought.
8' wall, 8/12 pitch puts the hoist post about 4 1/2 ft from the wall if I tuck it up into the rafters. (4 ft from the wall measures 11 ft to the bottom of the rafter) 11 ft wide hoist puts the other post 8 ft from the other wall in a 24' garage. I can't afford to have the hoist in the middle of the garage. If I go this style, I can put the post about 2 ft from the wall, (enough room to get around it) while putting the hoist on one side instead of in the middle. That way, if the jeep is centered in the hoist, it puts the outside of the tires about 3 1/2 ft from the wall.

Life is a compromise. Right now, it seems I either go this route or no hoist at all.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 12:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John D View Post
I picked up one of these a couple years ago and it has worked great for me. I believe it was $1900 out the door and took me and my 8 year old less than 10 hours to put together. The only complaint I could have is the drop is slow.
http://www.aresco.org/9000ae_fe.html
Find the restrictor plate (in return line) and drill it out slightly.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 01:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ledd View Post
I'll mention this anyways, CONCRETE. If you don't know EXACTLY what PSI and thickness your's is, pour new. Humans squish easily.
what PSI and thickness is required?
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Old August 13th, 2012, 02:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
8' wall, 8/12 pitch puts the hoist post about 4 1/2 ft from the wall if I tuck it up into the rafters. (4 ft from the wall measures 11 ft to the bottom of the rafter) 11 ft wide hoist puts the other post 8 ft from the other wall in a 24' garage. I can't afford to have the hoist in the middle of the garage. If I go this style, I can put the post about 2 ft from the wall, (enough room to get around it) while putting the hoist on one side instead of in the middle. That way, if the jeep is centered in the hoist, it puts the outside of the tires about 3 1/2 ft from the wall.

Life is a compromise. Right now, it seems I either go this route or no hoist at all.
Is it worth it with an 8' wall? Only you know, but the Jeep is probably 6.5' (or more) tall, so you could only lift it 1.5' - right? If the garage door opens in that area you would have to close the door to get that 1.5'. No doubt a lift beats a jack and stands to get it off the ground even a foot, but I'm not sure it's worth $1200 or more to get it.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 03:23 PM   #15
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I just bought one a month ago,..........the big problem I had was shipping:

They managed to lose the one in Grand Rapids, so they shipped one from Pontiac which ended up in Chicago, before it came back to a Wyoming Terminal. The shipper had me sign, before he would pull it out of the trailer, and then he beat the crap out of it including dragging it across the parking lot with a hi-lo before he picked it up to put it on my trailer.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 04:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
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what PSI and thickness is required?
4" @ 3000 psi. Since I cannot guarantee what is there, I will be repouring a thicker pad somewhere in excess of 6"

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Is it worth it with an 8' wall? Only you know, but the Jeep is probably 6.5' (or more) tall, so you could only lift it 1.5' - right? If the garage door opens in that area you would have to close the door to get that 1.5'. No doubt a lift beats a jack and stands to get it off the ground even a foot, but I'm not sure it's worth $1200 or more to get it.
You're not doing your math right. 8 ft wall height is the starting point where the pitch of the roof starts. Move up 8" for every foot you move in tells you where a post 11'8" needs to be. (rouchly 4 1/2 ft)

Next, you don't need to lift the tires high enough to walk under, just the frame. Since the frame is already 22" from the floor and I am 72" tall, I need to lift the jeep another 50", or just over 4 ft. Knowing that the jeep already fits through a 7 ft door opening, that means that I can walk under it when it is 11 ft in the air, or 3 ft above the wall height.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 04:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
4" @ 3000 psi. Since I cannot guarantee what is there, I will be repouring a thicker pad somewhere in excess of 6"



You're not doing your math right. 8 ft wall height is the starting point where the pitch of the roof starts. Move up 8" for every foot you move in tells you where a post 11'8" needs to be. (rouchly 4 1/2 ft)

Next, you don't need to lift the tires high enough to walk under, just the frame. Since the frame is already 22" from the floor and I am 72" tall, I need to lift the jeep another 50", or just over 4 ft. Knowing that the jeep already fits through a 7 ft door opening, that means that I can walk under it when it is 11 ft in the air, or 3 ft above the wall height.
Before re-pouring any cement, drill a hole where the hoist will go. If it is thick enough, I would go ahead and use it. I had planned on putting in pylons on both sides. Once I broke the concrete on the first side I decided the cement was strong enough that I had not needed to do it = allot of work I did not need to do.

Also, with your ceiling height, I think he misunderstood your post. He was thinking your trusses went across at the 8' wall height.

Another thing is, I don't always lift the vehicle to walk under it. I mostly lift it hi enough to work from my rolling mechanics chair, it is allot easier on my neck and back.

I got my hoist off CL, it was a great deal. It is an ALM made in ..
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Old August 13th, 2012, 04:29 PM   #18
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Here is my Aresco (out of Pontiac Michigan) 11,000 lb unit in my shop. Bad pic I know, it was the only one I had in my phone right now:



It cost 3,000 installed and has been great. Yes, it is from China, but Aresco's warranty is great on it, and I've never had an issue. You can get a lesser weight for less $$, but I commonly put very heavy stuff on mine. I've been super happy.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 04:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
You're not doing your math right. 8 ft wall height is the starting point where the pitch of the roof starts. Move up 8" for every foot you move in tells you where a post 11'8" needs to be. (rouchly 4 1/2 ft)

Next, you don't need to lift the tires high enough to walk under, just the frame. Since the frame is already 22" from the floor and I am 72" tall, I need to lift the jeep another 50", or just over 4 ft. Knowing that the jeep already fits through a 7 ft door opening, that means that I can walk under it when it is 11 ft in the air, or 3 ft above the wall height.
I was doing my math right if you had trusses
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Old August 13th, 2012, 05:06 PM   #20
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I was doing my math right if you had trusses
Understood. It's all good. I have a conventional construction but it still sucks as my entire upstairs is floored and insulated so a major reconstruction needs to take place. That's another part of it, if I push it too far into the middle it wipes out the current stairs to get up there.

Thanks Keith, I didn't realize they did installation. At that price, it might be worth it to have it done.
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