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Old April 27th, 2012, 06:21 AM   #1
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Default It's been two weeks now, and I can say I like my 6.0.

Picked up a 2007 F250 king ranch two weeks ago. Purchased from a private seller in Kentucky. Oasis report was crystal clear, truck is like new, and it was somebody who actually used the king ranch leather care system! I jumped on a plane to louisville and the guy picked me up at the airport. I had my selection narrowed down to three trucks, one in KY, one in TX, and one in Arizona. I'm happy this worked out, because I was dreading the drive back from the SW....

Truck ran perfect while warm, didn't like the cold at all. Slightly sluggish until it was up to operating temperature. This is the first diesel I ever drove that wasn't kept in a warm warehouse, so I am not sure if I'm over exaggerating the sluggishness or not.. Maybe it's just a diesel thing.

Swapped fuel filters, oil filters, changed oil to Rotella T6 5w-40, still had a slight amount of stiction when cold (10 hours parked, under 35F degrees).

Added REV-X after reading all the people saying that it's not a snake oil, had a gl4x4 member reflash the truck to the newest update and on days like today that are 29 degrees, it starts up and drives without any hiccups.

Had an injector balance test done, and all injectors are working perfect.. Not sure how rev-x works, or if its just a band-aid for a failing injector, but I'm another person saying that it works wonders.

Purchased an edge insight cts for monitoring that scary EOT/ECT delta, and I'm @ a 4 degrees difference.

Still, to be on the safe side, I'm installing a sinister coolant filter and sinister EGR delete kit.. Also have a cat delete pipe arriving early next week.

The first tank of fuel I was driving it easy, still learning about the truck and I had 16.2MPG 1/2 around town 1/2 on highway. Just finished my 2nd tank driving it like normal, including making people with fart can exhausts appear in my mirrors from stop lights and I averaged 16.7MPG.(digital meter claimed 17.1, hand math showed 16.7)

I don't plan on putting a tuner on it, so I'm going to just roll with the head bolts as they sit now.

I did two months of research before jumping into a 6.0, and from what I gather, these trucks were either lemons or had no problems, and I think I picked the right truck. I also have one of the last 200 trucks made with the 6.0, so that might be a bonus as well.

As long as the cat delete doesn't make the turbo sound like a jet, I'll probably not do any other mods to it...

Next step is to get my jeep on the road!

I'm sure my next post about this truck will be about replacing heads
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:07 AM   #2
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I have been looking at the 6.0L, I feel the same as you, but as for the head bolts, I would change them if you can swing them before to long.

I work at the Ford dyno building and have been asking the 6.0L engineers about all there problems, you are right on with your current upgrades. Ford engineers say change the bolts and forget about it. Its really not that hard to do while your doing the other upgrades. Doing the other upgrades should make the head bolt change a wash unless you add a ton of boost ( sounds like you wont) but why not do it and not worry about it ever again.

The engineers strees changing the bolts to ARP's but isnt really needed with stock boost and no ERG cooler, but still think that is the best way to make sure everything will last.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:08 AM   #3
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You wrote all that and no pics

Sounds like a nice truck and good luck with the head gaskets.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:18 AM   #4
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I think those engines can be hit or miss. My dads 06 350 has about 100k doing landscaping and plowing since he bought it new (with a few trips pulling my jeep, really wish i hadn't now my gasser sucks now lol).

Anyways, he has done nothing but change fluids and filters on it, just did the ball joints too. other than that, not a single issue.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:47 AM   #5
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Wait, you have a jeep?
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:51 AM   #6
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He sent me a pic??? Add the tuner, it makes a world of differance
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Old April 27th, 2012, 08:37 AM   #7
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I wish you the best of luck,my neighbor has a 6.0 in a f250,and his wife has one in an excursion.He drives a $200 beater van most of the time,and his wife borrowes her parents van so she has a reliable vehical.
Both have been plagued with problems and now need new motors.He is still paying on both also,I cant even imagine how pissed I would be.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 08:41 AM   #8
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I wish you the best of luck,my neighbor has a 6.0 in a f250,and his wife has one in an excursion.He drives a $200 beater van most of the time,and his wife borrowes her parents van so she has a reliable vehical.
Both have been plagued with problems and now need new motors.He is still paying on both also,I cant even imagine how pissed I would be.
Yep... Like I said in my OP, some are good, some are bad...

People who didn't do coolant flushes, ended up with clogged oil coolers which I'm guessing happened to your neighbors..

It seems like when proper maint schedules are followed, they last a long time..
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Old April 27th, 2012, 08:48 AM   #9
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I'm sure with all your reasearch you saw that most want you to dump the Ford gold coolant and change to a non silica based coolant. 05, 155K, mostly stock.

Last edited by rideraa; April 27th, 2012 at 12:23 PM.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 08:48 AM   #10
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I was believing this story until I got to the second to last line.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 08:50 AM   #11
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CC, I love mine, has more power than I imagined when looking for a diesel. Put a trailer on it and will still out run most shit on the road.
Maint is the key, 5w40 synth, EGR delete and flush the coolant.
I put a sinister coolant kit on mine and ELC. was told the first filter would be full of crap, but mine had almost nothing in it, so I figured I got real lucky. ECT/EOT deltas are under 10 all the time, even towing 10k trailer. Most of the time they are within 4-6 degrees.
I have not used the Revx but have been thinking about it. I had a very minor stiction issue when I bought it and have been running additive with each fuel up and it went away.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:07 AM   #12
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CC, I love mine, has more power than I imagined when looking for a diesel. Put a trailer on it and will still out run most shit on the road.
Maint is the key, 5w40 synth, EGR delete and flush the coolant.
I put a sinister coolant kit on mine and ELC. was told the first filter would be full of crap, but mine had almost nothing in it, so I figured I got real lucky. ECT/EOT deltas are under 10 all the time, even towing 10k trailer. Most of the time they are within 4-6 degrees.
I have not used the Revx but have been thinking about it. I had a very minor stiction issue when I bought it and have been running additive with each fuel up and it went away.
Stiction can't be cleaned up by running fuel additive, can it? I thought stiction was on the high pressure oil side of the injector.


I'm curious to see how clean my coolant filter will be after 500 miles. I was told to run it longer then 500 and keep running it until the filter isn't too hot to touch after running the truck for a while, which means its starting to clog up.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
I'm curious to see how clean my coolant filter will be after 500 miles. I was told to run it longer then 500 and keep running it until the filter isn't too hot to touch after running the truck for a while, which means its starting to clog up.
filters are cheap, replace it after 500 miles or so the first time.

I miss my 6.ohhhhh
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:20 AM   #14
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Stiction can't be cleaned up by running fuel additive, can it? I thought stiction was on the high pressure oil side of the injector.


I'm curious to see how clean my coolant filter will be after 500 miles. I was told to run it longer then 500 and keep running it until the filter isn't too hot to touch after running the truck for a while, which means its starting to clog up.
By definition maybe not, but it seemed to misfire when I got it upon cold starts and it does not any more, could be lighter oil (5w40 vs 15w40), or the additive to lube the fuel better. Either way it is better now.

On the coolant filter I changed mine a 500 the first time and nothing in the filter, since then I have had it on over 5000 and it still smoking hot after running so I am leaving it for a while yet.

This is my first diesel, whole family have them and have for decades. Lots of 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 and 6.7s...and one with a Duramax.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:22 AM   #15
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filters are cheap, replace it after 500 miles or so the first time.

I miss my 6.ohhhhh
Wait? What? I thought you just bought a 6.0?
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:23 AM   #16
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Will be adding a EGR delete in a couple weeks, along with a turbo clean (since it will be off), a 4" turbo back to eliminate the cat as well.
Hoping to pick up a few MPGs, I think I may have a weak FICM that may be causing some issues as well. Will probably pick one up to be safe.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:25 AM   #17
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I went to a training class about the maintenance on these engines. The biggest issue is people using the wrong coolant causing the ford coolant to sort of coagulate, proper oil changes, and using a proper oil filter, some aftermarket filters are not long enough and bypass in the housing or something. Other than maint issues they seem like a good motor.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:28 AM   #18
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Pictures!!???!!?!?!!
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:38 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter9 View Post
Will be adding a EGR delete in a couple weeks, along with a turbo clean (since it will be off), a 4" turbo back to eliminate the cat as well.
Hoping to pick up a few MPGs, I think I may have a weak FICM that may be causing some issues as well. Will probably pick one up to be safe.
I would really suggest an insight. Real time FICM monitoring. No matter if the engine is 25 degrees or 195 my voltage is between 48.00-48.50



Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinr839 View Post
I went to a training class about the maintenance on these engines. The biggest issue is people using the wrong coolant causing the ford coolant to sort of coagulate, proper oil changes, and using a proper oil filter, some aftermarket filters are not long enough and bypass in the housing or something. Other than maint issues they seem like a good motor.
It seems like everybody stresses the use of motorcraft filters. Not sure if it's a marketing ploy by Ford, or if there is something behind it, but I'm willing to pay for OEM.

I did find that international filters are about 50% of motorcraft, and they're the same part..
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Old April 27th, 2012, 11:14 AM   #20
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Wall Mart sells the Motorcraft filter, Last one was about 50c south of $20.

BTW the Fram (IIRC > 95%) was made off the same tooling (mold marks, stamps and all=same), maybe a buck less. After the first change went to Motorcraft...peer pressure (LMAO)

Rev-X smoothed out my rig. As of now my plan is 2x4.oz fall and 1x4.oz spring since it is about $10 per oz. And I am trying to avoid $200 oil changes.

I run a SCT live wire which gets you digital gagues, engine & trans tunes, some other software toys and has a pryo port, which I have utilized.

Last edited by rideraa; April 27th, 2012 at 11:22 AM.
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