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Old May 21st, 2012, 05:27 PM   #1
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Default Running very hot

Mopar 360la at silver lake was running around 220+. The water pump I have on it is advertised for drag racing. So I assume that its made to spin fast all the time.

Would a stock water pump be better? Its mild built 10:1 compression, cam, headers, EFI.

Radiator is brand new and the guy says its good for 600hp. I'm not making 600hp lol.

I need to wrap the headers and down pipe to get the under hood temps down. You can't even touch the hood on the YJ after running it at silver lake its so hot.

Any recommendations? Electric pump? Flow Kooler? stock pump?
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Old May 21st, 2012, 05:53 PM   #2
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What thermostat do you have in it?
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Old May 21st, 2012, 05:57 PM   #3
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180, then I pulled it and ran a plate to restrict, same thing. Even changed the cap to 16lb thinking cap may be bad.

Ive always fought this.... thought I finally cured it with the new radiator. I'm beginning to wonder if the engine machine guy just knocked the old freeze plugs in and installed new. I need to pull one and put a camera in there and see.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 06:08 PM   #4
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What kind of fan are you running? Does it have a shroud?
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Old May 21st, 2012, 06:17 PM   #5
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What kind of fan are you running? Does it have a shroud?
X2, I have a well built AMC 360 in my CJ and run about 200 degrees max when I run hard at the dunes. All I'm running is a stock water pump, stock 4 core radiator with a shroud. I also made sure my mechanical fan is as close as possible to the radiator to pull the air through.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 06:59 PM   #6
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I have a dual bypass radiator that is aluminum and a fan with and the shroud covers the entire radiator. The fan is electric and pulls 3,000 + cfm. Others with 5.3L engines in their jeeps run this setup and have no issues at all.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 07:02 PM   #7
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What is a drag racing water pump? Is that like a high-flow pump? Generally drag racers aren't worried about long term cooling and heat-soak temps.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 07:07 PM   #8
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Another thing to check. Is the water pump flowing the correct direction? Reverse flow pump possibly?
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Old May 21st, 2012, 07:14 PM   #9
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What is a drag racing water pump? Is that like a high-flow pump? Generally drag racers aren't worried about long term cooling and heat-soak temps.
The high temp liquid has to be in the radiator long enough for it to transmit heat to the radiator. Is it possible you are pushing the fluid too fast and just circulating hot fluid.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 07:42 PM   #10
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Cooling sys. issues are either lack of air flow or lack of water flow.

How much water flow do you have? If you can't see with the rad. cap off (will have to be above t-stat temp)maybe buy some clear hose to use as a upper rad. hose temporally to see water flow. I doubt too much flow is your problem but lack of flow could be. Have you ever tried a different water pump? Could be an impeller issue the pump.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 07:49 PM   #11
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yes high flow pump.... so perhaps its not flowing enough at high rpm?

Water pump is in the correct direction as its factory V-belt.

I guess i should pull the cap and look at the flow. I think i'm going to pull the pump , put a scope in the passage and check for obstructions, and weld a plate on the stock 6 blade pump I have on the shelf.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 08:03 PM   #12
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Long shot for sure, but you have been fighting this problem for a long time. Maybe want to check if heads are right for the block - eliminating coolant passage alignment issue as cause. Thinking that you can pull casting numbers and check someplace on the web for compatability(?)
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Old May 21st, 2012, 08:06 PM   #13
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Long shot for sure, but you have been fighting this problem for a long time. Maybe want to check if heads are right for the block - eliminating coolant passage alignment issue as cause. Thinking that you can pull casting numbers and check someplace on the web for compatability(?)
I was thinking along the same lines as well, wondering about head gasket coolant passage holes. I don't know much about these engines though so
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Old May 21st, 2012, 08:18 PM   #14
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I don't think that is the issue as before I did the engine rebuild it never had an issue cooling. I also made sure the head gaskets lined up correctly before torquing the heads down. I have pulled the head numbers before to check the chamber CC and they matched the engine. However, anything is possible and would be easy to overlook. The top radiator hose is rock hard to so I know its building pressure.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 08:20 PM   #15
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Oh and I don't think my lower hose has a spring....so perhaps its collapsing??
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Old May 21st, 2012, 08:45 PM   #16
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Lower hose could be sucking shut if it has a high volume pump. I think your dad has a thermo-gun (measures heat from a distance), have you used it to see if there is a hot spot someplace on the block? One idea you had was maybe the machine shop pushed the block expansion/casting plugs inside the block rather than removing them.
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Old May 21st, 2012, 09:03 PM   #17
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I had the IR gun with me in the toolbox but I did not think to bust it out Yeah it seems this has all happend AFTER the machine work..... but I have raised the compression and it makes more power. I will be looking at the coolant passages with the see snake cam when I pull the pump. And I will check to see if lower hose has a spring, if not i'll replace with one.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 10:14 PM   #18
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is your radiator down flow or across flow? if its a down flow it could be flowing to fast to cool down. and what is your total timming on the motor set at?
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 05:44 AM   #19
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I ran a high flow water pump for the same reason as you and ran it for exactly one outing. I found it to run hotter than the stock pump. As others have said, I found the solution in the radiator/shroud and fan.
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Old May 23rd, 2012, 07:57 AM   #20
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Side tanks dual pass. Not sure on total timming but at one point it was at 32 total . I've played with it before and always ran hot.

I'm probably going to buy the flowkooler pump. I have a kixkass fan Rad shroud combo
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