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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:27 PM   #1
spr_chicken
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HELP... wheels will not come off

I have a 1989 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban that I can not get the rear wheels off of. A little over a year ago I had new tires put on it. I had to use a breaker bar and a 5 ft pipe to get the lug nuts off. I have had the front wheels off to do the front brakes. I went to do the rear brakes and rotate the tires and I can not get the rear wheels off. They seem to be stuck on the lugs. They are alcoa aluminum rims and will not budge. I tried a pry bar, 10 lb hammer, and hear without any luck.


I have tried to call the place that put the tires on and just get an answering machine. I left a couple of general messages for them to just call me and one with a little detail on my problem. I do not want to just drive there because it is a 1/2 hour away from me and the truck needs rear brake bad.


Does anyone have any other idea on how to get the rear wheels of? The rear axle is a c-clip corp 14. I am at the point where I might try pounding the wheel studs out...
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:30 PM   #2
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I have had to heat the lug nut for a bit around there it is in contact with the aluminum rim and the other thing that has worked for me is try tightening it a blast or two with the impact and then try loosening.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:31 PM   #3
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I also had the same problem with my chevy it took a breaker bar and 2 broken 4 ways for me to cut the lug nuts and studs and replace with new!!
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tctrojan17 View Post
I have had to heat the lug nut for a bit around there it is in contact with the aluminum rim and the other thing that has worked for me is try tightening it a blast or two with the impact and then try loosening.
I tried that without any luck.

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Originally Posted by motocrosstcw View Post
I also had the same problem with my chevy it took a breaker bar and 2 broken 4 ways for me to cut the lug nuts and studs and replace with new!!
I got the lug nuts off.

I just can not get the rims off. They seem to be stuck on the studs...
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:45 PM   #5
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Big prybar between the rims and rotors/drums. Had a similar issue with my plow truck. It can be a mfer to get it to come loose. I was bending 4 foot crowbars
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:49 PM   #6
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Big fukcing hammer!!!!!!!
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:51 PM   #7
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Big sledge against the sidewall of the tire. Don't miss and hit the rim. LOL You don't need to hit from the rear, you can hit from the outside. The whole goal is to get the wheel to twist against the hub.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom77cj5 View Post
Big prybar between the rims and rotors/drums. Had a similar issue with my plow truck. It can be a mfer to get it to come loose. I was bending 4 foot crowbars
I tried a 4 ft pry bar made from an old torsion bar.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:55 PM   #9
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Static force (prybar) will not do it. It requires a shock. Just like pulling a tie rod end. (see recent video) You can pull with a puller all day and not accomplish what a well placed hammer strike will do.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Big sledge against the sidewall of the tire. Don't miss and hit the rim. LOL You don't need to hit from the rear, you can hit from the outside. The whole goal is to get the wheel to twist against the hub.
I tried hitting it on the tread and the front and back side walls. I even inflated the tire to 65 psi thinking it would take the hit better. I usually run them a 48 psi to get some ride out them. But they are rated up to 65 psi so I figured I was safe there.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Static force (prybar) will not do it. It requires a shock. Just like pulling a tie rod end. (see recent video) You can pull with a puller all day and not accomplish what a well placed hammer strike will do.
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LOL... We even tried the pry bar while hitting the tire with the sledge hammer. I worked at it for over 3 hours.

Last edited by spr_chicken; January 2nd, 2012 at 02:04 PM.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:00 PM   #12
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Put the lug nut back on loose and drive up and down your drive way a little. They do that where my wife works, even more with the inside duals on work trucks.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:02 PM   #13
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Heat, heat, heat, heat. All placed at the location where the hub meets the axle flange. Maybe some around the wheel studs too. Handheld propane/map gas torch usually works for me. Then hit tire (I usually face away from the vehicle and do a donkey kick to the sidewall but I'm a badass) with BFH.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4 jeep View Post
Put the lug nut back on loose and drive up and down your drive way a little. They do that where my wife works, even more with the inside duals on work trucks.
I tried that, I thought since the truck weighed so much that it would have been my best bet...

Quote:
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Heat, heat, heat, heat. All placed at the location where the hub meets the axle flange. Maybe some around the wheel studs too. Handheld propane/map gas torch usually works for me. Then hit tire (I usually face away from the vehicle and do a donkey kick to the sidewall but I'm a badass) with BFH.
I am going to try heating it again one more time. We used a hand held torch. Propane first then switched to map gas.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:13 PM   #15
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Take the sledge hammer and beat all around the sidewall of the tire.. its the the shock from the hit.. As Whiterhino already said
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:16 PM   #16
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Get some of this stuff
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4 jeep View Post
Put the lug nut back on loose and drive up and down your drive way a little.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spr_chicken View Post
I tried that, I thought since the truck weighed so much that it would have been my best bet...

Surprised this didn't work. Always worked when I was at the dealership, when the roundhouse kick on the hoist failed. A couple saws left and right on the steering wheel (to add some side loading) popped it right off every time. Very important to make sure the lug nuts are actually on the studs... Don't ask me how I know that!!!!
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:23 PM   #18
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Get some of this stuff
I tried some cheap stuff. But I do have a friend that works at a dealership, so I might have to call in a favor... LOL
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4klein View Post
Surprised this didn't work. Always worked when I was at the dealership, when the roundhouse kick on the hoist failed. A couple saws left and right on the steering wheel (to add some side loading) popped it right off every time. Very important to make sure the lug nuts are actually on the studs... Don't ask me how I know that!!!!
I was shocked too. That is alot of wieght and force when you are swaying from side to side.

I almost was going to try it without the lug nuts but thought I should not try my luck. The tractor was not here. LOL!!!
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 02:48 PM   #20
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I was shocked too. That is alot of wieght and force when you are swaying from side to side.

I almost was going to try it without the lug nuts but thought I should not try my luck. The tractor was not here. LOL!!!
Nah, if it works it would only take a tiny amount of wiggle-room between the nut and the seat of the wheel. You want the nut to 'catch' the wheel before it contacts the threads, if the nuts don't 'catch' the wheel it'll smash the threads and you'll likely be replacing the studs (or break 'em off when you put the wheels back on).

I always put a thin coating of grease anywhere an aluminum wheel touches steel, I've never had a problem removing them again.

And for the record, it wasn't me that forgot to put the nuts on before driving the car through the shop.
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