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Old April 25th, 2012, 01:30 PM   #21
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avoid the mbe engine. i have seen quite a few burn to the ground.
the cat or detroit are nice. i have a detroit now, and it pulls like no other engine i have ever had. if you see cummins look at it also. i had many of those and they get amazing mpgs. if you can find a pre 04, you have much less emmisions equipment to deal with.
you might also see if you can find a single rear axle truck, a little lighter, less parts to break. as an rv weight will matter very little. a million miles would scare me, but its not the end of the world. you can get good mpg in an expedite truck, at 75 mph you wont though, at 63 you can. look for a manual trans model. autos break and are expensive to replace. manuals will last a long time. you can learn to shift a 7, 8, or even 10 speed trans. its not rocket science. after a while you will only use the clutch to stop or take off anyway. if you see a volvo it will turn on a dime, and is awesome for backing up a trailer. stop at a local truck stop and look at the trucker paper. it will have loads of trucks for sale. good luck
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Old April 25th, 2012, 01:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
avoid the mbe engine. i have seen quite a few burn to the ground.
the cat or detroit are nice. i have a detroit now, and it pulls like no other engine i have ever had. if you see cummins look at it also. i had many of those and they get amazing mpgs. if you can find a pre 04, you have much less emmisions equipment to deal with.
you might also see if you can find a single rear axle truck, a little lighter, less parts to break. as an rv weight will matter very little. a million miles would scare me, but its not the end of the world. you can get good mpg in an expedite truck, at 75 mph you wont though, at 63 you can. look for a manual trans model. autos break and are expensive to replace. manuals will last a long time. you can learn to shift a 7, 8, or even 10 speed trans. its not rocket science. after a while you will only use the clutch to stop or take off anyway. if you see a volvo it will turn on a dime, and is awesome for backing up a trailer. stop at a local truck stop and look at the trucker paper. it will have loads of trucks for sale. good luck
good info on the tranny ..that is what i was looking for. how about the auto shift? those good or bad?been seeing them in a bunch of these.

i had my cdl for 10 years.kinda lost it for a bit so never got a new one.drove a truck a long time ago.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 02:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Trail Junkie View Post
Tires are pricey, make sure they are decent
Tires aren't that bad, about $250 for a steer tire. Thats not much more than good E range tires for an excursion
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Originally Posted by benny87 View Post
With the cost of repairs+ regular upkeep for 1 ton diesel truck, The cost HAS to increase exponentially.??
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Personally I'd get a uhaul for $3,000 with a gas motor in it and drop an old cummins in. Call it a day.
both of you are missing the point of the expediter truck. You can roll down the road with 6 people comfortably, watching TV, etc. Room to lay down and sleep while you're running down the road, instead of trying to sleep 3 wide inthe back of a 1 ton

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You can roll 75, but you will get hassled.....looks to much like a working truck......also plates on those will be in the $7-800 range per yr. The weight kills ya for plates
My plates are $200 per year, and I've never been hassled. I just have "Private RV" onthe side of the sleeper.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 02:20 PM   #24
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Erin- how important is MPG for you? some of those bigger motors will really start to kill your MPG. A big torque engine sounds great on paper, but isn't as fun at the fuel pump. I just have a CAT 3126 and a OD trans, it won't win races, and sucks going into a headwind, but it gets 10mpg no matter how I drive it.

Be carefull buying a high miles rig. I bought mine fairly cheap, knowing that I had to put about $4K into it right away. It was still a good deal, and cheaper than the 1 ton and gooseneck that I sold to fund it.

EDIT- also, what are you planning on using for ramps to get the rig in and out? Your setup will be dependant on which style rear door the truck has. I prefer the overhead door instead of the barn door, becuase it made building my ramp easier.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 02:36 PM   #25
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the auto shifts are fine till they mess up. they are all electronic, and not indestructable.
when they screw up you are parked. no manual linkage to the trans. it faults to neutral.
they are also a bitch when backing in close quarters. have to be on the fuel peddle to move.
you cant feather the clutch to back close to something at very low speed.
not to mention i can drive circles around any auto truck with my manual.
autos are just damn slow.

the manual trannys seldom fail under normal use. many last millions of miles with out any service, other than a fluid change.
get the manual if you can. its pretty much idiot proof, and bullet proof. not to mention clutches are cheap compared to auto tranny repairs
if you ever lost a clutch on a manual truck, start it in 2nd gear, and go, then float all your gears.
a cluch is not really that necessary. you could limp it across the whole country without a clutch.

my company was switching over to all auto trucks in 2005. by 2008 they got smart, and are now selling off all the autos.
they can do a complete clutch change for about $800 our shop cost. a reman eaton fuller ultra shift runs 7k to 8k.
used takeout trannys are 4k to 6k depending on miles. autos are great in a traffic jam, otherwise they blow!

Last edited by joe_jeep; April 25th, 2012 at 02:48 PM.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 03:04 PM   #26
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Get the manual -- it'll be just like the crawler!
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Old April 25th, 2012, 03:29 PM   #27
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Bones, you're buying cheap ass tires, but for what ya do it will work. I am going off what we pay for tires we're tryin to get 100k+ out of
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Old April 25th, 2012, 06:09 PM   #28
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Erin- how important is MPG for you? some of those bigger motors will really start to kill your MPG. A big torque engine sounds great on paper, but isn't as fun at the fuel pump. I just have a CAT 3126 and a OD trans, it won't win races, and sucks going into a headwind, but it gets 10mpg no matter how I drive it.

Be carefull buying a high miles rig. I bought mine fairly cheap, knowing that I had to put about $4K into it right away. It was still a good deal, and cheaper than the 1 ton and gooseneck that I sold to fund it.

EDIT- also, what are you planning on using for ramps to get the rig in and out? Your setup will be dependant on which style rear door the truck has. I prefer the overhead door instead of the barn door, becuase it made building my ramp easier.
yea that is my whole idea.been across country in a diesal pulling a trailer..it sucked.did koh in a motorhome and trailer..it sucked and cost a bunch more. i really like the expedite vehicle and it is way cheaper then a diesel and enclosed trailer.i work out of town a lot so i could also go to a job in this and stay in it,then put the perdinium money into my pocket.
i see there are some with hydraulic backs,barn doors and roll up's. i was just going to build 2 long ramps and make hooks to put them in.so i am not real picky on the back setup. would like to have a reefer box because the whole box can be cooled or heated.but those are a little more money.
cory switched brutus to a rv title and his plates and insurance are 1/4 of what they were.i will definetly look for a stick now.thanks for the input on the tranny's joe jeep.

my excursion gets 6 to 9 pulling so if i can get that or better i am happy.want one with some power and be able to run 75 if i want.the guy from ellenbaum truck told me i need 300hp or more to run 70 75 easy down the road with any of these expedite rigs.thats pulling a trailer also.

Last edited by liv2mx; April 25th, 2012 at 06:14 PM.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 08:31 PM   #29
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running fairly light(you will be), single axle truck, 300hp, man trans, 70 mph, fairly flat land, 10 mpg is possible. 9 or better is likely.

the older the better mpg wise. pre 2004 is best, way less emission crap on the motor.
emission junk on the newer trucks really choke the truck down. 2007 or newer it gets really bad.

watch gear ratios too. nothing too low in the rear end. some are geared really low. designed to haul heavy(mostly double axle rigs).
some are much higher. better for open road running light. remember you wanna be turning 1500 to 1700 rpm on the freeway in high gear.
get near 2k at 70 and it will kill your mpg on flat land, but help it in the hills/mtns. its only 300 hp, but the torque is way more than your used too.
it will lug along at 1500 to 1600 mpg all day with plenty of power for hills and passing.

my detroit runs 1400 rpm at 63mph in a combo thats 38k empty. i dont feel any of the weight at all till im over 25k to 30k in the box.
i have 500hp, 10 spd eaton fuller manual, 2.92 rear i think. i haul all toyota parts. its very light. often 10 to 15k fully loaded.
i get about 8 mpg, running light, 63mph, freightliner cascadia, 96" sleeper, 53ft wasbash duraplate trailer, about 53k gross.

if i was heavy or faster i would be in the 6 to 7 mpg range.
my truck is bigger and heavier, your mpg will be better.

good luck!

Last edited by joe_jeep; April 25th, 2012 at 08:53 PM.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 08:41 PM   #30
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Stay away from that benz Engine.. from what ive learned so far.. Cat's seem to be the choice of most..
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Old April 25th, 2012, 08:54 PM   #31
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Stay away from that benz Engine.. from what ive learned so far.. Cat's seem to be the choice of most..
benz blows! literally!
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Old April 25th, 2012, 10:55 PM   #32
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About the best thing I can tell you is to test the truck with a load, 1998-2008, Detroit 60, 10 speed.

That is a very common reliable setup. I would still take a diesel mechanic with me(I have 3 relatives) to look everything over.

You do realize this thing is not going to ride like a rv. The suspension is very stiff and while you can adjust the pressure slightly it is not enough to come close to the ride you will have in a 1-3 ton truck.

I think you should get a class B license more to familiarize yourself with the air break downfalls then anything. It is a superior system compared to hydraulics. But, the air lag and condensation is something that should not be overlooked.

As far as tires are concerned once you buy them you will probably not need another set. If you do buy them buy virgin rubber as retreads are less quality with very little savings. Use a unmounted steer tire as a spare as you can place a steer tire anywhere but you can only place a drive tire on the drive axles.

A rv can go way more places then a class 8 truck can go. Having something that looks like a class 8 truck may get you a ticket in some cases. A 1-3 ton truck can go virtually anywhere. It is not a big thing if you plan on bringing a jeep or pair of bikes etc. But, dropping the trailer and heading to the local tourist trap will be a lot harder with a class 8 looking truck.

That being said a class 8 truck (pre 08)is very basic. Most issues you will have will be with electrical or components failing with little warning. With less then 30k you will seldom use the 4 lower gears unless you stop on a steep grade. The weight is better distributed in these trucks. They handle very bad without any weight traction wise. Everything will cost more but is meant to last longer.

If you go with a dealership make sure they are a nation wide chain. A warranty is not worth much when you are 2000 miles from the dealership.

Best of luck to you.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 11:37 PM   #33
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better
http://equipmenterg.com/trucks/T849.html
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Old April 26th, 2012, 05:31 AM   #34
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how often are you gonna have 6 people "living the good life" in this truck with only your buggy in the back? Most of the time isn't it just gonna be you and couple buddies haulin a two place trailer with your Excursion?

And how is 9-10mpg tops in a huge awkward truck better than a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel getting 13-15mpg and a trailer?

I guess I just don't get it. My truck consistently gets 13-15mpg hauling a single place bumper pull. Got 10mpg haulin Rich's old 35" gooseneck and two XJs. Seats 4 without a problem. Hauls what ever I put behind it. And is easy to park down town most cities.



" the cheapest vehicle to own is usually the one you already have " . . . . or something like that . . . .



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Old April 26th, 2012, 07:02 AM   #35
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how often are you gonna have 6 people "living the good life" in this truck with only your buggy in the back? Most of the time isn't it just gonna be you and couple buddies haulin a two place trailer with your Excursion?

And how is 9-10mpg tops in a huge awkward truck better than a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel getting 13-15mpg and a trailer?

I guess I just don't get it. My truck consistently gets 13-15mpg hauling a single place bumper pull. Got 10mpg haulin Rich's old 35" gooseneck and two XJs. Seats 4 without a problem. Hauls what ever I put behind it. And is easy to park down town most cities.



" the cheapest vehicle to own is usually the one you already have " . . . . or something like that . . . .



.
Why better?
- sleeping quarters
- durable
- enclosed versus open (Erin needs to keep his rig spotless)
- tons of storage
- can put in a bathroom/shower like Bones did
- could even do a small kitchen
- can carry his own rig enclosed and still pull a big trailer behind
- for what he's pulling, his mileage is better than a motorhome. you won't get 13-15 pulling an enclosed trailer with your truck either
- cost effective (basically an entry level totor home)
- enclosed work shop.

Possible down sides?
- resale may be tough
- getting across the border may be tough

To me, for a person who truly plans to do a lot of long distance trips through the mountains, driving around the clock, sleeping on the road, this is not a bad way to go for the money. You aren't spending money on hotels or all restaurant food. I loved traveling with my motorhome and pulling the enclosed trailer but it was too much for my driveline. We were not willing to give up the motorhome lifestyle and couldn't swing the cost for a high end diesel so we went back to an open trailer. But for what Erin is thinking of doing, I think he will like it. As far as being able to run into town, an option would be a street legal Rhino. It would fit in the cargo area and give a basic run around vehicle. (don't know how legal they are in other states)
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Old April 26th, 2012, 07:24 AM   #36
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Once you are use to it, its not bad to "run to town" with
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Old April 26th, 2012, 01:00 PM   #37
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i have traveled thecountry in just about every way possible.when i raced bikes i did it with a pickup,then pickup and enclosed trailer,then motorhome and enclosed trailer,then when i was working for planet honda i had a box truck.(that was nice with everything in it and sleeping.then i drove there honda semi for a year to all the supercross and outdoor races.was awesome but sucked getting into some of the smaller tracks.i think for what i am looking to do this is my best option for all around use.i can have conveninces of home,my buggy out of the weather a dry heated or cooled place to work out of and stay in.should be reliable and way cheaper in the long run then having a truck and enclosed.i want to be able to take at least 2 rigs.thats a huge bumper pull enclosed and 8 grand or more,shitty fuel mileage, then i need to add the living comforts.so thats alot of money.buy a used diesel pickup 20 to 30 grand,buy a goosneck 5 to 8 grand and then have no place to stay...just seems like a no brainer to me.i guess i will find out.i am going to buy one.need to sell a couple things first or maybe just get a hair up my butt and finance it but i would rather have something like this paid for.i can also right this all off for work mileage and other work related stuff.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 02:57 PM   #38
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canada is strict on rv weight restrictions. i had a truck camper in my truck for a while to tow my jeep with. we camp with many truck camper groups.
quite a few have gotten over weight tickets in canada running a 3/4 ton with a large tc in it. not sure how that applies to an rv title on a class 8? look into it b4 you run into canada.
in the us you should be golden.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 04:36 PM   #39
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canada is strict on rv weight restrictions. i had a truck camper in my truck for a while to tow my jeep with. we camp with many truck camper groups.
quite a few have gotten over weight tickets in canada running a 3/4 ton with a large tc in it. not sure how that applies to an rv title on a class 8? look into it b4 you run into canada.
in the us you should be golden.
I'm confused, If you had a truck camper in a pickup truck, you aren't titled as an RV... how do you get a ticket for an overweight RV?

I've never heard of a big diesel pusher RV having any weight issues in Canada???? weird
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Old April 26th, 2012, 05:05 PM   #40
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interesting ... lots of up sides...


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- for what he's pulling, his mileage is better than a motorhome. you won't get 13-15 pulling an enclosed trailer with your truck either
really ? why would my fuel mileage go down pulling an enclosed ? I must be forgetting something ?
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