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Old February 7th, 2016, 11:39 PM   #1
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Default Red Yj gone mad

Started with this heep o jeep 4 years ago. Learned the hobby and the trails over that time. Got more serious, bought a truck and trailer. Then, this past year the build, break, fix, repeat bug got me good. Finally, one night the d35 decided to grenade itself on me... The wifey said, " I don't care how much it costs and how long it takes, fix it so that never happens again." I figured a 1 ton swap was the most viable option

Pics are from day 1 until now over the last 4 years. Here's where I'm at now plan wise: keep the 4.0 till it blows, 14 bolt rear, custom 60/14 front, stupid gears, doubler, cheap suspension, big tires, and a bunch of cut off wheels later will get me to the combo I've always wanted. Yes, it is Monstalined.. Yes I rolled it on.. Yes I recommend it.. Enjoy.

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Old February 8th, 2016, 08:55 AM   #2
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Looks like a prety rust free base
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Old February 8th, 2016, 07:12 PM   #3
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It was decent. It is starting on the underside of the tub but the rest is sealed up with the Monstaliner. I had POR'd the frame when I first got it too. Too bad I'll be hacking a lot of it up haha
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Old June 7th, 2016, 10:33 AM   #4
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Been busy with life. as always, jeep project takes a back seat. I have managed to gather some things together. a friend of mine has some 17s I'll be picking up. settled on some 39s scraping up the cash for those currently. DOM is in for the 14 bolt front. 3.5" OD .5 wall. all the knuckles and arms have been blasted. 14 bolt center is ready to rock as well. After wheels and tires I'll be ordering the yukon free spin kit too. That way if it ever is on the road I can unlock the hubs and not worry about the 14 bolt front oiling issues as well as any locker malfunctions on the street. Once I have all that I can finally measure where I will need to cut the DOM for the WMS I want. Let the saga continue. I'll post pics when I have time later.
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Old June 7th, 2016, 10:43 AM   #5
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Post good pics of the 60 / 14 bolt front
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Old June 7th, 2016, 11:30 PM   #6
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Here are some of the pics I have of the front pieces all cleaned up and separated.

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Old January 24th, 2017, 12:26 AM   #7
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Moving forward slowly but surely. Got the garage insulated finally and some nice new LEDs hung up. I have had a few spare nights here and there between our kitchen remodel. Ended up with some 38.5x13.5x16 boggers. Comp'd the corners. Acquired everything for the rear to go in and got it rolling around by itself. I used dually studs (dorman 601-194s) and 75 chevy 3/4 rotors and calipers for the disc conversion Mix of motobilt and barnes stuff for all other necessities. Leaf springs I'm using are out of an s10/blazer/jimmy. Picking up a doubler this weekend. I'd like to get that in sooner than later because it will let me get the front pinion centered.Then, I will finally be able to measure for the front axle tubes now that I have a solution for the 14 bolt front outers and have that width figured. Don't worry I will update that in a later post. Long story short, it is a bastard of an axle. chevy pig, dodge c's knuckles, and ford outers. Pics are as it sits now about at the wheelbase the springs will locate it at. 81-82 wide and I will be almost that in height. Hoping for less. I may stretch the rear a couple more inches.. Undecided. I'm 102 hub to hub.

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Old February 20th, 2017, 10:41 PM   #8
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70s in February! Was able to get the rear crossmember burned in last weekend. Hoping to have the axle bolted in next weekend.

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Old March 1st, 2017, 12:43 AM   #9
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Rear finally on its own weight again. Happy with barnes 4wd, motobilt, and the smaller blazer/jimmy leaf springs. Perches and frame side mounts are just tacked in for now to make sure everything is square. Pinion angle is 10 at rest and changes to 15 as it drops. Anyone have insight on what is "ideal" or "correct" in that situation? Width is 80.5" height is 81" A bit taller than I wanted but tolerable. I have roughly 32" between the top of the axle tube and where I'm wanting to put the shock mount. That should be enough room for a decent size shock. Also getting better with my welds. I'm a rookie and weekend welder so open to constructive criticism. Any input is appreciated.

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Old March 1st, 2017, 07:36 AM   #10
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Pinion angle is 10 at rest and changes to 15 as it drops. Anyone have insight on what is "ideal" or "correct" in that situation?
The angle is dependent on the vehicle and setup, there's no certain angle that works on everything. Are you running a double cardan driveshaft or standard single u-joints? If double cardan you want the pinion pointed at the t-case output, or 1-2 below it to account for axle wrap/windup. If running single joints you want the pinion running parallel to the t-case output.
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Old March 1st, 2017, 11:42 PM   #11
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The angle is dependent on the vehicle and setup, there's no certain angle that works on everything. Are you running a double cardan driveshaft or standard single u-joints? If double cardan you want the pinion pointed at the t-case output, or 1-2 below it to account for axle wrap/windup. If running single joints you want the pinion running parallel to the t-case output.
Single. In regards to the axle wrap, I know it will be bad with the boggers. Anti wrap bar under there is a must
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Old March 2nd, 2017, 09:28 AM   #12
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Single. In regards to the axle wrap, I know it will be bad with the boggers. Anti wrap bar under there is a must
Yes, anti-wrap bar is a must, but still aim it down a degree or so to account for bushing deflection.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 11:52 PM   #13
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So utilizing a close to factory mounting area and using these springs it would put me at about 102"... I'm not hot on that. I re positioned everything and I think about as far as I can go is 107-108" I can achieve this 1 of 3 ways. A) leaf with a longer eye to pin dimension B) Use leafs I have, move the mounting areas and extend the front frame rails roughly 11" while simultaneously frenching in the hangers netting me an inch or so lower COG. Or C) 3 link the damn thing. Reasoning for option C is the 14 bolt pig is so big, without mounting my leaf outside of the frame means welding perch to the pig and the ubolts won't grab hold. So, U bolt eliminator kit? If I do move leafs to the outside of the frame that cuts down on my steering angle some which per my math I currently have between 25-30 degrees. Option C is looking pretty attractive right now. I would definitely french in the rear hangers to get the rear sitting about with the front. Here's a couple pics and a screen shot of the 3 link with a panhard bar I have mapped out.







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Old April 9th, 2017, 11:30 PM   #14
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14 bolt tubes are in. Short side I believe is 24.5" and the other is 42.5" to pinion center. Had the wheeling itch bad so picked up another YJ to get me through the summer while I finish ol' red. Going to borrow the parts I am not using off the red one and swap over in the meantime. It already had a 4" lift on it so I found some new shoes for it. Got a deal on some 35s. Will probably give this one some fresh paint too. Keep an eye out this time next year it will probably be for sale. Onward with the project. Enjoy the pics.

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Old April 11th, 2017, 10:36 PM   #15
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More update on the 14 bolt front. Got the c's and pinion angle where I think I want them. Getting closer and I am very excited to get this project rolling again.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 07:32 AM   #16
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The numbers themselves look decent, but if you link it you're gonna want A LOT more vertical separation than that, as in about triple at both ends, and if you're running a panhard as shown I'd reduce the triangulation of the links as much as possible or they'll be fighting each other. Are you running conventional steering or full hydro? The panhard looks pretty short, but if conventional you obviously have to match it up to the draglink. If full hydro and you can't get away with triangulated 4 link I'd get the panhard as long as you can possibly fit and as flat as possible at ride height(looks pretty flat already).
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Old April 15th, 2017, 08:47 AM   #17
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The numbers themselves look decent, but if you link it you're gonna want A LOT more vertical separation than that, as in about triple at both ends, and if you're running a panhard as shown I'd reduce the triangulation of the links as much as possible or they'll be fighting each other. Are you running conventional steering or full hydro? The panhard looks pretty short, but if conventional you obviously have to match it up to the draglink. If full hydro and you can't get away with triangulated 4 link I'd get the panhard as long as you can possibly fit and as flat as possible at ride height(looks pretty flat already).
Full hydro as it won't be on the street and will save me a ton of trouble with not having the draglink. I was talking to Jake with the Riot buggy and he was mentioning some changes to play with. On paper, I just about have it so we will see how close I can get it. Trial and error. 14 bolt is about done, still having trouble on a rotor that matches up. Then I will find a place that can spline me new shafts but almost there.
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Old May 3rd, 2017, 12:22 AM   #18
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The 14 bolt front will finally meet the jeep soon. Bringing it home this week hopefully. I still have to get fresh calipers, rotors, unit bearings, seals, axle shafts, and a locker but at least the hard part is done.

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Old May 3rd, 2017, 05:47 AM   #19
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Branik can do whatever you need for shafts.

http://www.branikmotorsports.com

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Old May 4th, 2017, 12:23 AM   #20
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Branik can do whatever you need for shafts.

http://www.branikmotorsports.com

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