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Old March 10th, 2012, 02:23 PM   #1
heavy74chevy
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7.3 idi dead batteries

Ive got a 94 idi turbo, about every 3 to 4 days ive gotta charge my batteries. Theyll crank alittle bit, but not enough to start it. Both batteries are newer, positive cable is new, 1 new neg cable, new starter, new glow plug relay and all glow plugs are working. It seems to do it most when it sits for a day without being started. It sat all day yesterday, i went out at 5 this morning and they were dead. I charged them both and it started right up. Im at a loss here, not sure whats left to test or change. Any help would be awesome
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Old March 10th, 2012, 04:10 PM   #2
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I have seen cell phone chagers drain the batteries, if let pluged in. what is the alter chargeing at.
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Old March 10th, 2012, 04:13 PM   #3
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Have to ask, you have the alternator checked? They can become weak over time... Assuming that your alternator is fine, sounds like you either have a short or something draining the battery. My car will drain it's battery after about a week and a half if not started up, especially if I have things plugged in

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Old March 10th, 2012, 04:34 PM   #4
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I havent tested my alternater. I dont have anything pluged in ever, i charge my phone through a usb on my radio but it only works with the key on. This just started happening about a month ago. Before it could sit for a week and it would fire right up. The volt gauge shows good, but i know how unreliable these gauges are, so i guess the alt will be my next check
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Old March 10th, 2012, 06:03 PM   #5
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Just tested my alternater, its putin out 14.27 volts. Dont really know what else to look for now.
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Old March 10th, 2012, 06:14 PM   #6
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This might be my theory, I don't know how well it works, try testing resistance between your positive to negative batteries with the battery out. You would have to pull the fuse if you have a radio, especially one with the clock or anything else that is constantly consuming power. You should not get any reading. Then you could check to see the amp draws on the things that suck power to see if anything is relatively high.

I have heard stories about people with newer cars draining their batteries in under a week because of all the electronics from the Oe, computers, clocks, etc

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Old March 10th, 2012, 06:46 PM   #7
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Sounds like something is pulling them down. I would disconnect one and put a meter on the the other to see what the draw is. You can also use a test light installed in-between the batt. and cable, if there is now draw it should not light. i have see alternators go bad and pull the battery's down. If it is pulling two battery's down overnight it must be a fairly big draw.
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Old March 10th, 2012, 10:58 PM   #8
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I would also have to guess a parasitic draw from the alternator. Another thing you may want to check is the fuel heater on the line from the lift pump to the fuel filter head, I am not sure how much power that draws but maybe sticking on for some reason? Just an Idea.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 10:19 AM   #9
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I agree that it is likely a large parasitic battery draw. Not knowing what types of tools you have, there is a way to identify the responsible system. Install a parasitic draw tool (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7645-Paras.../dp/B000RT81XW) for example, then operate your vehicle normally for a day. Once you shut the truck off, install a DVOM to measure the amperage draw across the tester and then open it. Anything greater than roughly 50 mA is too much, so start unplugging 1 fuse at a time. The fuse removed identifies the faulty system, but it is always a good idea to eliminate aftermarket stuff too.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 10:56 AM   #10
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You can diagnose the problem or do what I have done for the past year with my truck is keep it plugged into a Battery Tender, I don't drive my truck very often so something wears the battery down with a week. I swap it between my truck and Bronco to keep the batteries from dying.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 11:18 AM   #11
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New means new, it does not mean good. Have batteries tested then check for parasitic draw. You should only have about 30-50 millivolts draw after the components go into "sleep" mode. If you have a DVOM, you need to disconnect one battery completly then put the meter inline with the negative battery cable because of how the positive is configured on your truck. Amps will show positive likes its charging due to this configuration. Let truck sit for about 10 minutes after making the connections then read amp draw. Good luck.
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Old April 4th, 2012, 08:52 PM   #12
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all you need is a test light. drop the driver side battery and drop the neg side from the post on the pass side battery. hook your test light from the battery neg to the neg terminal that is droped. if it lights up you have a draw. unplug the kenwood and start pulling fuses. when the light goes out you found it! check everything thats on that fuse. You will find it.
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