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Old December 15th, 2005, 12:27 AM   #1
Medic8
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Default CJ SOA steering question

Ok, I've asked this before elsewhere but I've never gotten a clear answer. When I go SOA, using YJ springs (I know you guys have done this before), can I keep the stock steering setup on the D30? I think I have seen someone do it before, using a drop pitman arm, but I don't know if it actually worked, or if that was a "quick, sell it on ebay" fix.

I don't want to keep it like that forever forever, but I also want to wheel this thing for a little while until I can build a set of killer axles for it (thus incorporating a hi-steer setup). Something temporary and cheap so I can actually afford to build the nicer replacements.

Thanks.
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Old December 15th, 2005, 01:28 AM   #2
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It's my understanding that you can run dana 44 highsteer knuckles and outers on your dana 30. I don't know where you can get a 260x d44 outer though...
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Old December 15th, 2005, 08:34 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyevil
I don't know where you can get a 260x d44 outer though...
Early Bronco D44.

Back to the original question.... Some guys had luck running a drop pitman arm 'til they bend their drag link when it hits the passenger spring. The other shitty thing about this method is it puts the tie rod under the springs which makes it very vulnerable to various trail obstacles. CJ tie rods bend quite easily. It'll get you buy, but bring spare parts to get off the trail when your tie rod becomes a pretzel.

Another thing you should consider is that SOA on CJ axles (wide or narrow track) will make the vehicle feel tippy, more so than a TJ, YJ, or whatever) during off-camber situations.
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Old December 15th, 2005, 09:09 AM   #4
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Ran SOA with YJ springs on my 1975 CJ-5 for years. I used a 3" drop pitman arm, thats it. No interference that I ever saw(no witness marks on the drag link). Front springs were YJ fronts, with a scout main leaf added in as an extra full length under the main, and another YJ 2nd leaf under the stock 2nd.

In Michigan, SOA will help tremendously to keep the springs and spring plates from plowing mud and getting you hung up on ruts.

That was a narrow track axle, though. I believe a wide track would hit. My perches might have been a little taller than average, too. That helps.
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Old December 15th, 2005, 10:46 AM   #5
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Small. but here's Swampjeeps on 35" boggers.. he's still under the springs..

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Old December 15th, 2005, 11:51 AM   #6
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I am running into this exact situation right now!!! Any more information would be helpful everyone.

I have Scout Dana 44s with Dana 30 knuckles though. I am really debating doing a high steer.
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Old December 15th, 2005, 12:42 PM   #7
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As I mentioned in the other thread... what about using a tie-rod with a hoel in it about a foot from the knuckle, then the drag link bolts to the tie rod, instead of the knuckle.

not ideal, probably more bump steer. but some rigs run like this from the factory. A low(er) buck approach...
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Old December 15th, 2005, 02:16 PM   #8
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MY drag link joins my tie rod about 5" from the knuckle. I also run a bent draglink (I know, I know) but I have hyd assist so the drag link doesn't really see much force.

If you move the joint of the tie rod and drag link out farther, you have a stronger change of bending your tie rod.

You can see my "joint".. it is the circle where the axle tube ends.



another pic of the front
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMG_0553.jpg
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