Ring and Pinions...Oh My... - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

Go Back   Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Axle Tech
GL4x4 Live! GL4x4 Casino

greatlakes4x4.com is the premier Great Lakes 4x4 Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Search
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old January 11th, 2012, 07:47 AM   #1
Coyote Red
Senior Member
 
Coyote Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-24-11
Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default Ring and Pinions...Oh My...

I am about to start my winter build project and one of the items is re-gearing. A little background, a mildly built 300-6 cyl Ford putting out roughly 300ft/lbs at the flywheel with a NP 435/205 combo and stock axles with 32" tires. I have the factory 3.08's right now and need to slow it down for the rocks. I am between a set of 5.13, 4.88, 4.56, or 4.11. I have crunched these numbers below and am looking for some input from more experienced individuals. The numbers are in the order of crawl ratio, ft/lbs to wheels and rpm at 60mph. I know I will have to give up somethings to get better at others so I am not to concerned with having to trailer places. I am leaning towards the 4.56 or 4.88 any other opinions or experiences are welcome.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo361.jpg
Views:	160
Size:	48.7 KB
ID:	87754  
Coyote Red is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old January 11th, 2012, 08:43 AM   #2
ajmorell
Senior Member
 
ajmorell's Avatar
 
Join Date: 01-22-07
Location: Oshkosh, WI
Posts: 3,526
iTrader: (16)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to ajmorell
Default

4.88s and 5.13s are going to be waay too deep if you're just planning on sticking with 32s. I would go with 4.11s myself, but if you intend to do A LOT of crawling the 4.56s would be pretty nice.
ajmorell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 11th, 2012, 09:13 AM   #3
Bones
skillicous
 
Bones's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Dearborn Heights, MI
Posts: 11,478
iTrader: (37)
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to Bones
Default

have you researched the Np205/np203 doubler?

A doubler might be a better solution for you if you have a long enough wheelbase to fit it. If this is in a fullsize truck, you should have plenty of room.

Pros-
you save $$ by not having to re-gear
you can still have great highway RPM
you can still have a very low crawl ratio

Cons-
more weight
you have to buy a 203 and doubler kit
you have to build new driveshafts
you have to build a second crossmember to support the doubler
__________________
Inviscid Motorsports

Special Thanks and Recommendations to;
Motorcity Machines
Ironman Offroad
Branik Motorsports
Maxxis Tires

Raceline Wheels
PAC Racing Springs
Joint Clutch and Gear
Bones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 11th, 2012, 10:05 AM   #4
Coyote Red
Senior Member
 
Coyote Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-24-11
Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default

The 5.13 was looked at as an extreme case of the lowest possible gearing with factory axles. I can see no need for them but just used for compassion purposes. I have looked into the doubler kits and am going to start running into drive line angle issues along with a $700 adapter and finding a 203 case. I should have mentioned that it is a standard cab short bed truck with a planned 4" suspension lift and little use on the DD spectrum. I intend to stick with the 32-34" range on tire size for now. There is a possibility for a bump to 35's or larger.
Coyote Red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 11th, 2012, 10:11 AM   #5
Haggar
Covered in mud...
 
Haggar's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Oxford, MI
Posts: 17,655
iTrader: (56)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

Is this a vehicle that you are already driving, so that you are familiar with the engine powerband, and how it drives?

This is my take on questions like this: If its a dedicated crawler, go ahead and gear it as low as you want. But, if its going to do some of everything, then I would worry more about your most-used gearing more than the crawl.

In my experience, in mixed wheeling, that includes general trails, hill climbs, snow, mud, sand, and then crawling.

When I look at my mixed wheelers, such as V8 CJ5 with a T18, and 100:1 geared toyota, yeah, the crawl gear is nice, but it was used 20% of time or less, the most important is that intermediate gear. (Again, if its primarily a rock crawler, then its different).

My experience again, is for something like your 300, torquey, not a high rpm screamer, you probably want a gear that hits 5000 rpm (or whatever your redline is) at about 25 mph. Thats a good speed to be cresting most hills, or keep the wheels churning in mud and snow.

Unfortunately, thats bang on where you are now with 3.08 gears, due to the high 2nd gear of 3.34:1 in your NP435, you're at 5290 rpm @ 25 mph.

In a manual trans, you really want to avoid a shift 1/2 way up a hill (and again, say 'up a hill' but that is usually the case with 'halfway through a snow field' or 'halfway through a mud hole'.....). You lose momentum and thats when you get stuck. SO you need that gear low enough to have enough power, but high enough to not require a shift.

Thats where, without knowing how your truck drives, I can't say, per se, what works best, but I find most mild V8s, strong 6's, etc do good with a gear that redlines at 25mph.

If I assume your redline to be 5000 rpm, then here are your shift points:

(By the way, I am using 630 revs per mile for your tire size, which is what a 33" labelled tire would run, because it looks like thats what you used for your calculation. Tires 'labelled' as 32's usually run about 650 revs per mile....)

Shift points in low range:

3.08 gears:
1-2 shift: 12 mph
2-3 shift: 23 mph
3-4 shift: 44 mph

60 mph in high range: 1940 rpm.

4.10 gears:
1-2 shift: 9 mph
2-3 shift: 17 mph
3-4 shift: 33 mph

60 mph in high range: 2583 rpm.

4.56 gears:
1-2 shift: 8 mph
2-3 shift: 16 mph
3-4 shift: 30 mph

60 mph in high range: 2873 rpm.

4.88 gears:
1-2 shift: 8 mph
2-3 shift: 15 mph
3-4 shift: 28 mph

60 mph in high range: 3074 rpm.

5.13 gears:
1-2 shift: 7 mph
2-3 shift: 14 mph
3-4 shift: 26 mph

60 mph in high range: 3232 rpm.

So, if you have enough power, you can probably do OK with 4.56s or 4.88s, for those 'wheel speed' situations but you are running close to 3000 rpm @ 60mph.


Myself, I'd ditch the NP205 for something else. With a 6 cyl and 32s, there's better options, you don't need brute strength.

Consider, if you got a T-case with 2.7:1 ish low range, and with more moderate 4.10 gears:

4.10 gears:

1-2 shift: 6 mph
2-3 shift: 13 mph
3-4 shift: 24 mph

60 mph in high range: 2583 rpm.

You'd have a good cruise RPM and low gears that are about what you'd get with 5.38s and your NP205's 1.96:1 low range.

You'd have a 74:1 creeper first gear, a moderate 2nd gear for slow stuff, a 3rd gear that is perfect for hills, and a 4th gear good for cruising at 20mph between difficult trail stretches.
Haggar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 11th, 2012, 01:29 PM   #6
Joe87
Member
 
Joe87's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-03-11
Location: Midland,MI
Posts: 30
iTrader: (0)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Wow nice post
Joe87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 11th, 2012, 02:14 PM   #7
Haggar
Covered in mud...
 
Haggar's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Oxford, MI
Posts: 17,655
iTrader: (56)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe87 View Post
Wow nice post
:)

Its kind of like Drag racing. You don't want to have to shift 100 ft before the end of the run.

The hard part is it depends on your vehicle. Those numbers I posted seem to work well for the typical Jeep or similar.

Something light and powerfull can get away with less.

But at least around here, whether is a dirt hill, sand dune, mud pit, snow field, long snowy hill, etc, you know how it works.

You want to have enough power to keep accelerating as you need to. Worst thing in the world is starting out, redlining half way up a hill, clutch in, shift to the next gear, it bogs, can't pull anymore, you start slowing down, you have to clutch in and shift back to the lower gear, dump the clutch, spin the tires, and boom, stuck. We've all done it. ven worse with those big truck 4 speeds, they don't shift fast and have VERY wide spacing in the gears.

So thats the thing I always try to avoid.
Haggar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 11th, 2012, 02:20 PM   #8
bigbchevy
missmrgreenagain
 
bigbchevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: 09-15-07
Location: fenton /hartland mi
Posts: 19,107
iTrader: (167)
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Is this a vehicle that you are already driving, so that you are familiar with the engine powerband, and how it drives?

This is my take on questions like this: If its a dedicated crawler, go ahead and gear it as low as you want. But, if its going to do some of everything, then I would worry more about your most-used gearing more than the crawl.

In my experience, in mixed wheeling, that includes general trails, hill climbs, snow, mud, sand, and then crawling.

When I look at my mixed wheelers, such as V8 CJ5 with a T18, and 100:1 geared toyota, yeah, the crawl gear is nice, but it was used 20% of time or less, the most important is that intermediate gear. (Again, if its primarily a rock crawler, then its different).

My experience again, is for something like your 300, torquey, not a high rpm screamer, you probably want a gear that hits 5000 rpm (or whatever your redline is) at about 25 mph. Thats a good speed to be cresting most hills, or keep the wheels churning in mud and snow.

Unfortunately, thats bang on where you are now with 3.08 gears, due to the high 2nd gear of 3.34:1 in your NP435, you're at 5290 rpm @ 25 mph.

In a manual trans, you really want to avoid a shift 1/2 way up a hill (and again, say 'up a hill' but that is usually the case with 'halfway through a snow field' or 'halfway through a mud hole'.....). You lose momentum and thats when you get stuck. SO you need that gear low enough to have enough power, but high enough to not require a shift.

Thats where, without knowing how your truck drives, I can't say, per se, what works best, but I find most mild V8s, strong 6's, etc do good with a gear that redlines at 25mph.

If I assume your redline to be 5000 rpm, then here are your shift points:

(By the way, I am using 630 revs per mile for your tire size, which is what a 33" labelled tire would run, because it looks like thats what you used for your calculation. Tires 'labelled' as 32's usually run about 650 revs per mile....)

Shift points in low range:

3.08 gears:
1-2 shift: 12 mph
2-3 shift: 23 mph
3-4 shift: 44 mph

60 mph in high range: 1940 rpm.

4.10 gears:
1-2 shift: 9 mph
2-3 shift: 17 mph
3-4 shift: 33 mph

60 mph in high range: 2583 rpm.

4.56 gears:
1-2 shift: 8 mph
2-3 shift: 16 mph
3-4 shift: 30 mph

60 mph in high range: 2873 rpm.

4.88 gears:
1-2 shift: 8 mph
2-3 shift: 15 mph
3-4 shift: 28 mph

60 mph in high range: 3074 rpm.

5.13 gears:
1-2 shift: 7 mph
2-3 shift: 14 mph
3-4 shift: 26 mph

60 mph in high range: 3232 rpm.

So, if you have enough power, you can probably do OK with 4.56s or 4.88s, for those 'wheel speed' situations but you are running close to 3000 rpm @ 60mph.


Myself, I'd ditch the NP205 for something else. With a 6 cyl and 32s, there's better options, you don't need brute strength.

Consider, if you got a T-case with 2.7:1 ish low range, and with more moderate 4.10 gears:

4.10 gears:

1-2 shift: 6 mph
2-3 shift: 13 mph
3-4 shift: 24 mph

60 mph in high range: 2583 rpm.

You'd have a good cruise RPM and low gears that are about what you'd get with 5.38s and your NP205's 1.96:1 low range.

You'd have a 74:1 creeper first gear, a moderate 2nd gear for slow stuff, a 3rd gear that is perfect for hills, and a 4th gear good for cruising at 20mph between difficult trail stretches.
__________________
H.o.r.e
(mr.green)So you are calling CC a liar?? Not a nice way to treat your bitch.
tube bending and gear installs pm me for info! gears installed for $150 and up per axle.
bigbchevy is online now   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 07:25 AM   #9
Coyote Red
Senior Member
 
Coyote Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-24-11
Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Is this a vehicle that you are already driving, so that you are familiar with the engine powerband, and how it drives?

This is my take on questions like this: If its a dedicated crawler, go ahead and gear it as low as you want. But, if its going to do some of everything, then I would worry more about your most-used gearing more than the crawl.

In my experience, in mixed wheeling, that includes general trails, hill climbs, snow, mud, sand, and then crawling.

When I look at my mixed wheelers, such as V8 CJ5 with a T18, and 100:1 geared toyota, yeah, the crawl gear is nice, but it was used 20% of time or less, the most important is that intermediate gear. (Again, if its primarily a rock crawler, then its different).

My experience again, is for something like your 300, torquey, not a high rpm screamer, you probably want a gear that hits 5000 rpm (or whatever your redline is) at about 25 mph. Thats a good speed to be cresting most hills, or keep the wheels churning in mud and snow.

Unfortunately, thats bang on where you are now with 3.08 gears, due to the high 2nd gear of 3.34:1 in your NP435, you're at 5290 rpm @ 25 mph.

In a manual trans, you really want to avoid a shift 1/2 way up a hill (and again, say 'up a hill' but that is usually the case with 'halfway through a snow field' or 'halfway through a mud hole'.....). You lose momentum and thats when you get stuck. SO you need that gear low enough to have enough power, but high enough to not require a shift.

Thats where, without knowing how your truck drives, I can't say, per se, what works best, but I find most mild V8s, strong 6's, etc do good with a gear that redlines at 25mph.

If I assume your redline to be 5000 rpm, then here are your shift points:

(By the way, I am using 630 revs per mile for your tire size, which is what a 33" labelled tire would run, because it looks like thats what you used for your calculation. Tires 'labelled' as 32's usually run about 650 revs per mile....)

Shift points in low range:

3.08 gears:
1-2 shift: 12 mph
2-3 shift: 23 mph
3-4 shift: 44 mph

60 mph in high range: 1940 rpm.

4.10 gears:
1-2 shift: 9 mph
2-3 shift: 17 mph
3-4 shift: 33 mph

60 mph in high range: 2583 rpm.

4.56 gears:
1-2 shift: 8 mph
2-3 shift: 16 mph
3-4 shift: 30 mph

60 mph in high range: 2873 rpm.

4.88 gears:
1-2 shift: 8 mph
2-3 shift: 15 mph
3-4 shift: 28 mph

60 mph in high range: 3074 rpm.

5.13 gears:
1-2 shift: 7 mph
2-3 shift: 14 mph
3-4 shift: 26 mph

60 mph in high range: 3232 rpm.

So, if you have enough power, you can probably do OK with 4.56s or 4.88s, for those 'wheel speed' situations but you are running close to 3000 rpm @ 60mph.


Myself, I'd ditch the NP205 for something else. With a 6 cyl and 32s, there's better options, you don't need brute strength.

Consider, if you got a T-case with 2.7:1 ish low range, and with more moderate 4.10 gears:

4.10 gears:

1-2 shift: 6 mph
2-3 shift: 13 mph
3-4 shift: 24 mph

60 mph in high range: 2583 rpm.

You'd have a good cruise RPM and low gears that are about what you'd get with 5.38s and your NP205's 1.96:1 low range.

You'd have a 74:1 creeper first gear, a moderate 2nd gear for slow stuff, a 3rd gear that is perfect for hills, and a 4th gear good for cruising at 20mph between difficult trail stretches.
Holy math work batman!!! I have to agree with bigbchevy here

You bring up some very valid points with your assumptions. The power band that I have seems to run from about 1700 to right around 4000 rpm. Max torque is claimed at 2000, my max hp is around the 3500 range, and the rev limiter is set at 4500 with the MSD box.

I have leaned to avoid shifting halfway up hills (tried to go from second to third in high range on test hill). I can clear the hill with ease in second high range but the revs are about 4000 which puts you spot on for the 25 mph idea.

I will use this truck as a trial rider, sand runner, mud, snow, and rock. I will be staying in state for the most part but would like to make it out to other parts of the world like Cliffs, Moab, Maine, Kentucky/Tennessee, and ultimate dream would be to be self sufficient for a week or two on the trails/camping.

Now let me counter with this idea. Rather than re-gearing should I be looking for a way to add more gear choices with the trans/t-case, such as an under drive or a doubler due to the narrow rpm range? If the doubler/under drive seems to be the best route as recommended by those that have experience with them then I have no issue with the price of the parts and ensuring clearance and drive angles.

This is a truck that I plan to drive until the day I can no longer work the clutch and then I will swap in an auto until I am this guy so I have no problem waiting to do this right the first time.
Coyote Red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 09:05 AM   #10
Haggar
Covered in mud...
 
Haggar's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Oxford, MI
Posts: 17,655
iTrader: (56)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

I don't have personal experience with the 205/203 doubler. I ran dual t-cases in my Toyota, and liked the flexibility, though.
Haggar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 09:56 AM   #11
Coyote Red
Senior Member
 
Coyote Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-24-11
Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
I don't have personal experience with the 205/203 doubler. I ran dual t-cases in my Toyota, and liked the flexibility, though.
From looking at different options the 203/205 will give me only one extra low range since ratios are so close (203-2.0:1, 205-1.96:1). With the Klune-V that has a low ratio of 2.73:1 I end up with 4 different ranges. I am thinking more and more that with what I want to do with the truck that the more flexible the options the better I will be.
Coyote Red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 12:13 PM   #12
Bones
skillicous
 
Bones's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Dearborn Heights, MI
Posts: 11,478
iTrader: (37)
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to Bones
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote Red View Post
From looking at different options the 203/205 will give me only one extra low range since ratios are so close (203-2.0:1, 205-1.96:1). With the Klune-V that has a low ratio of 2.73:1 I end up with 4 different ranges. I am thinking more and more that with what I want to do with the truck that the more flexible the options the better I will be.
you're not going to find a cheaper, more robust 3 speed Tcase than the 203/205 doubler.

Another option is a 203/D300 doubler, which would give you more gear options. Some of the output shafts on the D300 might need upgrade at some point, and the yokes too.

If you start talking Klune, just save up for an Atlas.
__________________
Inviscid Motorsports

Special Thanks and Recommendations to;
Motorcity Machines
Ironman Offroad
Branik Motorsports
Maxxis Tires

Raceline Wheels
PAC Racing Springs
Joint Clutch and Gear
Bones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 12:49 PM   #13
Haggar
Covered in mud...
 
Haggar's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Oxford, MI
Posts: 17,655
iTrader: (56)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
you're not going to find a cheaper, more robust 3 speed Tcase than the 203/205 doubler.

Another option is a 203/D300 doubler, which would give you more gear options. Some of the output shafts on the D300 might need upgrade at some point, and the yokes too.

If you start talking Klune, just save up for an Atlas.
Agreed.

Both of my tcases were 2.28:1 in the toyota, I had high, mid, and low range. I never felt the need for an ultra low 200-1 type range.


Nice thing with the doubler was to be able to shift the front range box into low for easy 2wd-low.
Haggar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 01:46 PM   #14
Coyote Red
Senior Member
 
Coyote Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-24-11
Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
you're not going to find a cheaper, more robust 3 speed Tcase than the 203/205 doubler.

Another option is a 203/D300 doubler, which would give you more gear options. Some of the output shafts on the D300 might need upgrade at some point, and the yokes too.

If you start talking Klune, just save up for an Atlas.
That was the thing I am wondering was the price for a Klune. I have not been able to reach High Impact to find out. With the D300 would I have to flip it to get a drivers drop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Agreed.

Both of my tcases were 2.28:1 in the toyota, I had high, mid, and low range. I never felt the need for an ultra low 200-1 type range.


Nice thing with the doubler was to be able to shift the front range box into low for easy 2wd-low.
I never thought of that benefit. I was going to twin stick the 205 for that very reason, but with a doubler I don't have to do that.
Coyote Red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 06:45 PM   #15
Bones
skillicous
 
Bones's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Dearborn Heights, MI
Posts: 11,478
iTrader: (37)
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to Bones
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote Red View Post
That was the thing I am wondering was the price for a Klune. I have not been able to reach High Impact to find out. With the D300 would I have to flip it to get a drivers drop?


If you are lucky you will find one used in OK shape for about $1500

I think they are about $2600 new.
__________________
Inviscid Motorsports

Special Thanks and Recommendations to;
Motorcity Machines
Ironman Offroad
Branik Motorsports
Maxxis Tires

Raceline Wheels
PAC Racing Springs
Joint Clutch and Gear
Bones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12th, 2012, 08:30 PM   #16
Coyote Red
Senior Member
 
Coyote Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-24-11
Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
If you are lucky you will find one used in OK shape for about $1500

I think they are about $2600 new.
Unless I heard wrong, which is very possible as I was in a noisy setting, I believe the lady at high impact said 1695. Either way I will be cheaper in a doubler set up, roughly $700 for the adapter and probably 100-125 for the NP203.
Coyote Red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 13th, 2012, 11:51 AM   #17
Bones
skillicous
 
Bones's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Dearborn Heights, MI
Posts: 11,478
iTrader: (37)
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to Bones
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote Red View Post
Unless I heard wrong, which is very possible as I was in a noisy setting, I believe the lady at high impact said 1695. Either way I will be cheaper in a doubler set up, roughly $700 for the adapter and probably 100-125 for the NP203.

$1700 isn't too bad new if thats the real out the door price including shifters and the correct shafts, etc....

Were you planning on setting the gears up yourself, or hiring it done? Taht is a big price difference when you are comparing the price of re-gearing axles vs a doubler/klune.
__________________
Inviscid Motorsports

Special Thanks and Recommendations to;
Motorcity Machines
Ironman Offroad
Branik Motorsports
Maxxis Tires

Raceline Wheels
PAC Racing Springs
Joint Clutch and Gear
Bones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 13th, 2012, 01:01 PM   #18
Coyote Red
Senior Member
 
Coyote Red's Avatar
 
Join Date: 08-24-11
Location: Chelsea, MI
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
$1700 isn't too bad new if thats the real out the door price including shifters and the correct shafts, etc....

Were you planning on setting the gears up yourself, or hiring it done? Taht is a big price difference when you are comparing the price of re-gearing axles vs a doubler/klune.
I believe that was just the price of the unit. On top of that I will need a shifter and an adapter to get the 6 bolt round of the klune to the 4 bolt trapezoidal design. I plan to do everything on this build myself and that takes out install cost.
Coyote Red is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > 4x4 Talk > Axle Tech

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:56 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin, Copyright 2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
Page generated in 0.69045 seconds with 75 queries