|
|
|
||||||||||
| Home | Register | iTrader | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Store | Photo Gallery | Chat |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 |
|
Senior Member
|
Joint/Heim review
Looking to buy some heims or joints to make control arms for my short arm TJ. I'm wondering what you guys suggest as far as brand and size? These will on day be used to link my TJ on one tons. Looking at ballistic, jj's, crepper joints etc but am open to ideas. Can't be too expensive and must last squeak free on a DD.
Links would be helpful Last edited by 2fst4you; March 15th, 2012 at 10:10 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
I'd hit that
![]() |
well price it out...
2x johnny joints 41.95 ea Tube adapters w/nuts about 15 per set (find them everywhere) 2x.250 wall D.O.M. tube $1 per inch (priced from a tube I just bought) So you could pretty much make some stock length jeep control arms with johnny joints at both ends for about 130 ish per Or you could make one with a bushing end 41.95 + 15 for adapter and nut $15 in tube $16 for bushing (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...t_Code=BUSHDOM) 87.95 ea x2 175.90 for 2.. pretty comparable to the arms you posted Could probably do them for cheaper if you made the bushed end and or used some smaller tubing for the arms I would suggest the johnny joints.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
|
Ya I planned on pricing it out just wanted to know what joint everyone liked first. Thanks for that info though. If the x-flex or rusty joints are any good ill probably buy them if not ill make some with jj's
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
┌∩┐(ò_ó)┌∩┐
![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
┌∩┐(ò_ó)┌∩┐
![]() |
This is what you want.
http://roughcountry.com/jeep_tj_663U.html That way your not buying all the extra crap you don't need. I wouldn't do the 4 inch to keep it low and besides your clearing your tires right now any ways. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
┌∩┐(ò_ó)┌∩┐
![]() |
the lower links hang kinda low but no lower than your tcase skid, and its comparable to all other bolt on long arm kits. |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
welfare wheeler
![]() |
avoid the rc stuff. the joints in the arms wear quickly.
build your own, or buy quality arms like currie, or rock krawler. use no poly bushings at all! factory rubber clevite bushings are ok and getting more popular. they will offer some flex, just not as much as a jj. good luck |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
Senior Member
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 | |
|
Senior Member
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 | |
|
┌∩┐(ò_ó)┌∩┐
![]() |
Quote:
We both know a 60 front is along ways off for either of our rigs. You could do the la kit and then easily sell it when your ready to upgrade. I would either do this, or just spend enough to get by, as in just the rear arms. Theres no reason to wrap up a ton of money in a short arm kit. Last edited by wadey; January 1st, 2012 at 06:21 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Senior Member
|
Ya I understand what your saying. Im probably just going to buy some new rear arms for now and change my front arms over to jointed ones in time. We will see what the budget allows
Last edited by 2fst4you; January 1st, 2012 at 09:53 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 | |
|
welfare wheeler
![]() |
Quote:
i checked into them and heard of quite a few people that had prematurely wearing joints. rc has great customer support. they will help you out with any issues. i just dont want to rebuild my arms yearly. there was one guy at rocks and valleys yesterday under his rig messing with his rc long arms. the price of rc stuff is great, the quality is not always as good. lucky for most guys their customer support and warranty is good! they offer a new set that are adjustable, but have clevite rubber bushings at both ends. they might be a good option? at least they will ride well, and be quiet. should take forever to wear out. some guys want rubber at one end to isolate noise and vibrartion. other guys want all the flex that can get. its a matter of opinion. a tj with the sway bars disconnected will flex like mad with stock arms. rubber does flex. remember poly wont flex, and can possibly tear off a control arm mount when really crossed up. Last edited by joe_jeep; January 1st, 2012 at 07:11 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
Senior Member
|
I'm going to do a little more research on all types of joints before pulling the trigger but will most likely order some currie arms or make my own with johnny joints. That way ill have good joints later down the road when I link my TJ.
I want joints on atleast one end due to the fact of getting some more articulation out of my current setup but may end up with 2. If using one joint I will be using rubber at the opposite side. Thanks for your help |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Senior Member
|
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...8X34SET15.html
These any good? Or are there other decent joints for a little cheaper than jj's |
|
|
|
|
|
#16 |
|
RIP FSFL :(
![]() |
Depends on what you ultimately want to do. Remember that the joint is only as strong as the minor diameter of the threads. Smaller the threaded end, the weaker your overall link is. I also try to run my joints as close to the link as possible to reduce the bending moment on the threaded area. My $.02. Be proud, I actually gave you a decent response for a change
__________________
My Jeep Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity.
George S. Patton |
|
|
|
|
|
#17 | |
|
Just bump it....
![]() ![]() |
Quote:
The jj's are a solid choose and you will not regret the little extra you spend. I have been running jj's for the last 4 years and they are still tight.
__________________
Southern Michigan Rockcrawlers |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#19 | |
|
Senior Member
|
Quote:
Last edited by 2fst4you; March 15th, 2012 at 10:12 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#20 | |
|
┌∩┐(ò_ó)┌∩┐
![]() |
Quote:
And yes heims squeak you've heard my blazer and that was just with the track bar and draglink moving around. I couldn't imaginable what a entire suspension would sound like with them. |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
|