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Old January 26th, 2013, 05:52 PM   #81
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I look forward to your progress! Keep on it.
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Old January 26th, 2013, 11:15 PM   #82
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So I just spent the last 5 hours running my weight numbers again. Turns out my 4700 estimate was a bit off.

The axles with rims and tires(5) trussed complete with larger shafts and breaks ended up being 2300 not 1800 like I first thought. A couple other small things ended up being a bit off also which slowly added up the weight.

Right now I am showing 5520 total weight realistically leaning on the heavy side. If I slim down a few parts drilling holes and such I can get closer to 5400. That's the price I pay for running rocks I guess. Kind of a bummer but it is what it is.
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Old January 26th, 2013, 11:23 PM   #83
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try this weight loss fatty
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Old January 26th, 2013, 11:25 PM   #84
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Make sure you account for your fluids, gas, and gear (I assume you're working on your suspension)

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Old January 26th, 2013, 11:26 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerial View Post
So I just spent the last 5 hours running my weight numbers again. Turns out my 4700 estimate was a bit off.

The axles with rims and tires(5) trussed complete with larger shafts and breaks ended up being 2300 not 1800 like I first thought. A couple other small things ended up being a bit off also which slowly added up the weight.

Right now I am showing 5520 total weight realistically leaning on the heavy side. If I slim down a few parts drilling holes and such I can get closer to 5400. That's the price I pay for running rocks I guess. Kind of a bummer but it is what it is.
You do realize that a standard koh style buggy is like 2/3 the weight with 10x the capabilities of the Sherman tank you are trying to build don't you?

Last edited by chadcooper55; January 27th, 2013 at 07:02 AM.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 05:47 AM   #86
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Use the th400. Don't text and drive.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 10:05 AM   #87
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You do realize that a standard koh style buggy is like 2/3 the weight with 10x the capabilities of the Sherman tank you are trying to build don't you?
Most of those guys are using axles that are 200-300 lighter each. The frigging chuck weighs over 200 pounds by itself. Lets call that 400 pounds.

There cabs are not enclosed. If I remove the doors and windshield(designed this way 8 bolts to remove) I drop 290 pounds.

My engine with the heavy steel flywheel and all my accessories clocks in at just under 750. I think that's damn good.

The brown lipe weighs 120. 140 with brackets. This is weight that could be eliminated in less then a hour at the expense of higher freeway speed and only a 33/1 low.

The suspension (not the links) and all the components(except those on the motor) weighs just under 250. Four Fox shocks with hardware is somewhere around 90 pounds. That's 160 weight difference with very few headaches and down time. Once I tune this suspension I should not need to touch it for 8-10 years.

My 2 aluminum and 1 composite propane tanks (22 gallons) and the cage/insulation around them and all the lines(not including components on the motor) is only a mere 145 pounds full. I think this is also damn good. I am using the composite tank and a rear view mirror back up camera to view the propane level with the flip of a switch.

The roof and the floor are 1/8 thick steel sheets. This is done to increase rigidity of the cage. These leak, and puncture proof sheets weigh a whopping 170 pounds. I could screw down some 1/16 aluminum and let it flop around and weigh 20 pounds like they do eh no thanks. That's 150 pounds there.

My front and rear slip tube bumpers(everything in front and rear of the axles) designed to catch a cars bumper and slow the impact. This is not including the lights on them. These weigh a meager 85 pounds both. These sections are totally removable and designed to mount onto the area between the axle and the cab for use on the trail to gain clearance. A buggy does not have these (I could mount the lights inward) so that's 85 pounds of weight I can loose.

Most of there transmissions are lighter then my 465. I know my single speed 2 spur gear transfer case (simple and tough) is at least 1/2 the weight of a Atlas. Transmission and transfer case combined (brown lipe not included) weight we are about even weight wise.

So that's 1225 pounds of weight difference if you compare this to a sponsored comp buggy.

This is designed for winter wheeling and woods wheeling. I like woods wheeling tons more then "rock crawling". Think deep snow/mud with unseen dangers(like a 30 foot around pond). Then there is the woods and mountainous logging trails with the temperature averaging 20 degrees, tons of leaves with frost under them, branches pushing against you, wildlife, and that one log that you just can not get traction over no matter where you hit it.
A open wheeled, open cab, with one ton axles and 38" tires rig is not something I want to be in when there is freezing rain and 28 miles to the camp site.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 10:09 AM   #88
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Blah blah blah blah. You are proving my point. The reason their buggies are lighter, faster, more nimble and overall more capable is because they aren't using any of that garbage.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 10:27 AM   #89
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I know people plan out there builds but it seems like you have spent 1000 hrs designing this thing and the 3 hrs you have out into actually building this thing it now looks more like a shipping container than a trail rig.
I will give you some advice. Most people start out by designing and building the frame and suspension and fitting the engine and drivetrain to that and them
Build a cage/cockpit around it. You are doing it backwards and unless you are really good you are gonna have a cobbled together rig build that is gonna get moved to the booty fab thread. (Not that it doesn't already qualify)
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Old January 27th, 2013, 10:40 AM   #90
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you haters can suck it...I thought this guy was a joke until I started reading his posts, he has it well planned out and I'm sure when its done it will be one to the best builds ever done on this site
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Old January 27th, 2013, 12:05 PM   #91
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you haters can suck it...I thought this guy was a joke until I started reading his posts, he has it well planned out and I'm sure when its done it will be one to the best builds ever done on this site
Second that roger.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 04:56 PM   #92
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Quote:
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you haters can suck it...I thought this guy was a joke until I started reading his posts, he has it well planned out and I'm sure when its done it will be one to the best builds ever done on this site
You are right I'm stoopid...... Sorry cerial, you are smart and I am dumb. Hancho and firehawk say so and they are pretty smart.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 05:28 PM   #93
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less talk. more progress pics.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 10:55 PM   #94
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Trimmed down as much as I can get(I replaced the 1/8 steel with 1/16 steel in many spots). I have 5230 fully enclosed.

Now 2296 of that is the trussed axles, the tires, the wheels, and the spare.

So I am looking at this page. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...le_weights.htm

Is that right dana 60 axles are only 260 and 305?? 565 for both? That seems light as heck.


I am figuring 720 front and 740 rear(with disk breaks) for the 2.5 ton axles without any trussing. 1460

That's a 895 difference.

Then this thing was meant to run on steel wheels and 35's. right around 400 pounds
The 40" tires and wheels(and spare) for the 2.5 are 804 pounds
That's a 404 difference.

1299 total from a 2.5 ton to a dana 60.

Running a dana 60 would give me a 3931 total weight.

OK I have been looking at this axle thing all wrong. Thanks for slapping some sense into me.
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Old January 28th, 2013, 02:46 AM   #95
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:thumbup: are you switching back to 60's then? I just re-read a lot of your build thread and it is starting to make sense to me. You definitely think waaaay outside the box but you may be on to something. I'm looking forward to more progress pictures!
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Old January 28th, 2013, 07:52 AM   #96
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Quote:
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:thumbup: are you switching back to 60's then? I just re-read a lot of your build thread and it is starting to make sense to me. You definitely think waaaay outside the box but you may be on to something. I'm looking forward to more progress pictures!
I need a axle ratio that is six something. I am just going to plan on 60's and use the fj62 axles for mock up. I have been jabbering on way to much and just need to keep it simple and light like hagger sudgested a long time ago.

I will focas on the motor and transmission for now. No matter how I play it I need a ps drop rear and that means custom housings and junk. I just fell into the thing about the tooth mesh in a 60 when you get in the six and sevens. Seen a few post saying a 2.5 was only a bit heavier then a 60. Thought hey I can justify 400 pounds for double the protection and if I do this.. it will fit.
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Old January 28th, 2013, 08:06 AM   #97
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Get some portals on Dana 44's. More low range, less stress on the axle and more ground clearance. And you would be keeping the weight down.
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Old January 28th, 2013, 08:19 AM   #98
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Quote:
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Get some portals on Dana 44's. More low range, less stress on the axle and more ground clearance. And you would be keeping the weight down.
If I could run that setup or some 404's at 75-80 I gladly whould. Everything I seen says the gears will burn up at those speeds.
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Old January 28th, 2013, 08:23 AM   #99
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Could you do a gear reduction box before the t case like northwest fab makes?
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Old January 28th, 2013, 08:29 AM   #100
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I got a friend that runs these portals and absolutely loves them. I have never heard him bitch about not being able to use them at high speeds. http://www.motorsports.axletech.com/portal.asp
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