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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:42 PM   #1
reptile610
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Default steel vs aluminum

has anybody used the aluminum body armor they're making now for jeeps? im wondering how durable it is and if it's worth the price in the weight reduction.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:02 PM   #2
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With anything else the lighter the better IMO. Is it worth it, well that depends If you are on tons with 37s Id say that your drivetrain could handle the extra weight, If you’re on 37s with a D30 then that’s a different story. If you think your drivetrain can handle the extra weight then there isn’t any reason to go for the aluminum, unless you want some bling

Edit just checked, and the Genright aluminum corners only save you 20lbs. For the $200 price difference I would go steel.

Last edited by wadey; November 12th, 2011 at 07:23 PM.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:14 PM   #3
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do you need to use a special paint for the aluminum? i don't really wanna spend the money to get them powder coated if i get them. i would think they'd corrode alot sooner than steel.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:18 PM   #4
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Walmart spray paint
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:19 PM   #5
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Walmart spray paint
just didn't know it'd stick to the aluminum. idk over thinking it i guess.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:41 PM   #6
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Jiri "had" new rocker guards. They didn't fare so well in South Dakota.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:58 PM   #7
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Jiri "had" new rocker guards. They didn't fare so well in South Dakota.
rust?
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Old November 12th, 2011, 08:31 PM   #8
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No, aluminum rockers and front fenders. Bent them to shit....although I don't know you I can still be safe in saying Jiri wheels his harder than you will.

The best aluminum will bend, gouge, crack, break, before simple steel items and be much more expensive.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 07:47 AM   #9
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i work in an aluminum forging plant in ferndale so i know a thing or two about aluminum. they make these parts out of 6061 which is a pretty soft aluminum but you can heat treat them to do alot but yeah, i assumed they wouldn't last nearly as long as steel.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 12:03 PM   #10
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http://xnet3.uss.com/auto/steelvsal/basicfacts.htm

Couple highlights from the above link.

On an auto body, when aluminum and steel are in direct contact, accelerated corrosion is evident. There are barrier technologies available to help with this condition when mixing metals, but at a significant cost impact.

Steel is strain rate sensitive, many aluminum structural grades are not. It is well known that steel displays positive strain rate performance. That is, at the higher rates of strain typically associated with crash events, steel has higher strength increases and consequently higher energy absorption at a given part weight.

The only advantage aluminum has over steel is weight. You are going to need to use thicker aluminum(heavier) to get close to the same impact resistance as steel body armor.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 02:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tab View Post
No, aluminum rockers and front fenders. Bent them to shit....although I don't know you I can still be safe in saying Jiri wheels his harder than you will.

The best aluminum will bend, gouge, crack, break, before simple steel items and be much more expensive.
Only reason for using alum. on my Jeep is to save same weight.Frt.fenders,rear fenders/corners,skid plates , rockers and upper ,lower susp.arms.I would not recommended on DD,because salt on roads during winter time.Salt will eat all alum.if not protected faster then steel.As far us all the damages from SD and Canada,most of it's bend back to original shape.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 04:34 PM   #12
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Jiri, have you weighed your rig?
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Old November 13th, 2011, 07:29 PM   #13
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I am just going to toss this out there.

Have you considered using 1/8" UV stable Hdpe sheets for body protection. The sheets are light weight (lighter then aluminum I believe) and can easily be formed into virtually any shape (like the tub corners) using vacuum forming. You could easily make some steel tube fenders and have UV stable Hdpe for the areas like the top and triangle bottom.

Ever seen a Hdpe 55 gallon barrel corrode? Those things last for 30 years easy out in the sunlight.

The 1/8" sheets are cheap compared to 1/8" steel. When you drag the Hdpe sheet over a rock it will only leave a scratch that does not need to be repaired like steel that will rust out if left alone. They will fade in color overtime but the fuel saved and the need not to constantly paint them will make buying new sheets in 10 years(if you keep the rig that long)cost worthy.

People have been using UHMWPE(cutting boards with a oily surface) for years as light weight skid plates. They are not UV stable so you can not use them as body protection cause they will yellow and crack within 7 years. But for under body protection vs steel they just make perfect sense.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Jiri, have you weighed your rig?
No.I think if I go on diet ,weight reduction will be more significant.
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Old November 16th, 2011, 08:06 PM   #15
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was thinking maybe the hi line stuff from gen right? that way i can keep it as LCG as possible. probably do the steel armor thoughts?
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Old November 16th, 2011, 08:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
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was thinking maybe the hi line stuff from gen right? that way i can keep it as LCG as possible. probably do the steel armor thoughts?
Get with Iromnam offroad, IIRC Dale's a dealer and has installed some. May be able to answer any Q's you have on that stuff
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Old November 17th, 2011, 04:17 PM   #17
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Get with Iromnam offroad, IIRC Dale's a dealer and has installed some. May be able to answer any Q's you have on that stuff
thanks will do
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