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Old November 11th, 2011, 10:32 PM   #1
tonkatruckon44s
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Default engine turns over very slow

engin tuns over very slow.... first off i tore down the engine and replaced the timing chain i made sure to top dead center the number 1 cylinder and line up the timing marks were lined up and then i put everything back together. i got the motor put back in the truck and hooked everything up it is a brand new battery and starter just bought today. my friend thinks it is the fact that we didnt ground the block to the frame or body but i think it is because we never reset the distributor.
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Old November 11th, 2011, 10:40 PM   #2
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Try to hook up the negative clamps of a set of jumper cables to the negative post of the battery and the starter bolt and see if it changes anything.
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Old November 11th, 2011, 10:55 PM   #3
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ill try that tomorrow but what exactly will that do make the starter ground
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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:25 AM   #4
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ill try that tomorrow but what exactly will that do make the starter ground
The starter it's self does not have a negative wire to ground out to, it just grounds out on the starter housing thru the block. So the closer your ground is to the starter the better the connection. The jumper to the start bolt will help complete the circuit to verify it that is your problem or not.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:16 AM   #5
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grounds, grounds, grounds, grounds, grounds, grounds.... MOST COMMON ISSUE FOR THIS!!!! make sure you have a VERY good ground from Battery> Frame, Battery>motor Motor>frame ( i prefer atleast 3 points... just my suggestion. make sure you have good grounds and if not all your going to do is fry your battery cables
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Old November 12th, 2011, 07:58 AM   #6
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I prefer this setup:

Battery (-) directly bolted to engine block, then an additional grounding cable from the block to the frame.

Battery (+) to an insulated junction box that feeds the stater and the rest of the vehicle.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 08:44 AM   #7
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[QUOTE=TanTahoe;2845694]The starter it's self does not have a negative wire to ground out to, it just grounds out on the starter housing thru the block. So the closer your ground is to the starter the better the connection. The jumper to the start bolt will help complete the circuit to verify it that is your problem or not.[/QUOTE

Exactly what he said. It is just a quick check to help isolate if that is your problem. You could also use the other 2 clamps to go from motor to frame or body just to complete the circuit more. Grounds are very critical to completing the "circuit" and making everything work good.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 10:09 AM   #8
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yeah i have a friend helping me swap the motors and he wont listen to me on anything when we were putting the motor back in i wanted to hook the grounds on the back of the engine block back up but he said no i never use grounds i thought it was weird so ill try hooking up all the grounds and if that doesnt work ill try grounding the starter.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 10:16 AM   #9
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yeah i have a friend helping me swap the motors and he wont listen to me on anything when we were putting the motor back in i wanted to hook the grounds on the back of the engine block back up but he said no i never use grounds i thought it was weird so ill try hooking up all the grounds and if that doesnt work ill try grounding the starter.
tell your friend he is an idiot.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 09:42 AM   #10
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yeah pretty much he just had a cherry picker and i dont
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:05 AM   #11
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Your freind doesn't seem too smart,see if you can get him to hold on to the positive battery cable while you crank it over.If your freind screams,and jumps away from the truck,with burnt fingers,you have a bad ground.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:15 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by ScOoTeR View Post
I prefer this setup:

Battery (-) directly bolted to engine block, then an additional grounding cable from the block to the frame.

Battery (+) to an insulated junction box that feeds the stater and the rest of the vehicle.
X2 on this one. I sometimes even take it a step farther and run the Battery (-) directly to the engine block, then a separate one from the battery directly to the frame and another one from the engine block to the frame. Might sound like overkill but I have never had a ground issue on anything I built.
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Old November 15th, 2011, 11:34 AM   #13
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okay finally got it to start literally what i did is i went out to it the other night turned on the lights to make sure the batter wasnt drained to much while i tried to start it. then i shut the lights off and tried it one last time didnt hook anymore grounds or mess with the dizzy and it fired right up, it turned right over i have no idea what it was but it still turns over every time. im going to investigate it a little bit and see whats going on. btw does anyone here have any vaccuum diagrams for that year tbi motor.
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Old November 15th, 2011, 11:45 AM   #14
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Crank speed is not dependent on the distributor. So you could have the distributor out and it should still crank fine but not start. Just an FYI.
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Old November 15th, 2011, 11:47 AM   #15
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i already got it started
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Old November 15th, 2011, 12:46 PM   #16
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what year TBI?
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Old November 17th, 2011, 12:37 AM   #17
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1989 i think its fuel pump gone bad
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Old November 17th, 2011, 09:43 AM   #18
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i already got it started
I saw that. I was just giving you information for the future.
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Old November 17th, 2011, 11:20 AM   #19
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yeah pretty much he just had a cherry picker and i dont
next time borrow it
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Old November 17th, 2011, 10:17 PM   #20
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definately the fuel pump not and i have to replace sending unit and tank because they both are rotted found why pump went bad because the inside of the tank was so rusty the fuel strainer in the tank was clogged up so bad it was black burnt out the pump damn if it isnt one thing its another
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