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Old November 13th, 2011, 10:24 PM   #21
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Yeah it's in that video. That was it's first trip to the dunes
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Old December 13th, 2011, 10:41 PM   #22
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King 4" air bumps are in order. I was talking to John at Lenger and he said the 3" travel would work, I asked what about when I get stupid with it, after a slight pause he said 4" it is.

I made some Bi-Xenon projector headlights which most won't care about here.



Got pulled over Sunday on my way to work for no rear bumper so I started on this yesterday. I just quit for the night and I'm pretty happy with the look so far for my first time working with tubing.


Last edited by alix4d; December 14th, 2011 at 01:01 PM.
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Old December 16th, 2011, 11:59 AM   #23
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Finished the bumper up last night in the sleet.



I painted it this morning and got rid of the zip tie license plate mount.





I'm going to cap the ends if I get ambitious
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Old January 9th, 2012, 09:41 PM   #24
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Well I had the day off so I took some measurements for a bed cage and started pricing out longer travel shocks.



This is the basic idea of what I want to build. I want it simple to retain as much bed space as possible while keeping the shocks as close to vertical as I can.



I also like the idea of the cage being bolted in so the bed can still come off.

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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:11 PM   #25
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I like the bed cage idea but i hate when the cage is taller then the bedsides. I'd build it flush with the bed sides
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Old January 9th, 2012, 10:18 PM   #26
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I like the bed cage idea but i hate when the cage is taller then the bedsides. I'd build it flush with the bed sides
That's one of my options. I could mount a 14" shock flush. A 16" shock would be ideal to get the most suspension travel but would be about 4" over the bed side. I'll see which I like better as I study more designs. I hate TT bed sides so that won't be an option to hide them.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 04:43 PM   #27
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I took measurements of the front today for bump stops. Then I started brainstorming. I thought I wanted 14" travel shocks in the front but I was actually surprised after taking some measurements. After looking at some options, a 10" shock seems ideal.

Front - A 10" King shock is:
18.375" compressed. At bump that puts the upper mount an eighth inch above the inside lip of the inner fender (Just for reference).
28.375" extended (Using the same reference point) gives a surprising 18" of wheel travel.
Limit strap would be 17" to use my current holes or I could move mine down 1".
Bump stops -
I'm am going to start with a 3" bump first because a 4" would only give about 1" of wheel travel before hitting. With a 3" I should have about 3" of compression from ride height to bump. The way bump stops are limited, they can be extended extremely easily by disassembling them and cutting the internal spacer.

Bump:



Droop:



That's about as far as I feel comfortable drooping these arms. 18" of wheel travel is plenty.
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Old January 10th, 2012, 05:13 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alix4d View Post
That's one of my options. I could mount a 14" shock flush. A 16" shock would be ideal to get the most suspension travel but would be about 4" over the bed side. I'll see which I like better as I study more designs. I hate TT bed sides so that won't be an option to hide them.
A longer shock isn't going to give you more suspension travel though, your springs will only droop so far and bump stops stop up travel. Just my 2 cents, i've been wanting to build one or buy one from cali for a while now
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Old January 10th, 2012, 05:13 PM   #29
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Needs a turbo
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Old January 10th, 2012, 05:20 PM   #30
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I'm pretty sure I seen this truck a few times a couple months ago around the Grandville area. I was drooling
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Old January 10th, 2012, 05:45 PM   #31
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Quote:
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A longer shock isn't going to give you more suspension travel though, your springs will only droop so far and bump stops stop up travel. Just my 2 cents, i've been wanting to build one or buy one from cali for a while now
Oops I thought you meant the front at first. These rear springs with the flipped shackles have the travel. My current shocks are the limiting factor here.

Last edited by alix4d; January 10th, 2012 at 05:51 PM.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 12:12 PM   #32
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I was out measuring to get an idea of clearances under the hood. I used some 10" Fox emulsions for an idea because they have the same compressed and extended dimensions as the Kings I want to buy. Passenger side has plenty of room and won't be an issue at all I'll just build it after the drivers to match. On the drivers side I will have to lean the hoop out slightly to clear the brake booster. The shocks will still maintain a slight angle inward at ride height. For the bar across the engine I'll just have to shorten the bracket holding my MAF and air filter a few inches.

I want to make the engine bar bolt in for obvious reasons. I know there's many ways to do this. Anyone have any experience with what works and functions well?

The debate I'm having at the moment is how much of a difference I would notice going with a dual rate spring setup. Would it be worth the extra $160 on only a 10" travel shock? I could always change out the springs later on as well. It would be about $320 to upgrade later.

Any input or opinions on any of these questions is appreciated.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 04:21 PM   #33
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Quote:
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I want to make the engine bar bolt in for obvious reasons. I know there's many ways to do this. Anyone have any experience with what works and functions well?


Any input or opinions on any of these questions is appreciated.
just tube with some 2 bolt flanges on the end..
like this


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Old January 11th, 2012, 05:09 PM   #34
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That's what I was picturing. I just didn't know if there were other options.
Thanks
Was size tube are those hoops?
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Old January 11th, 2012, 05:26 PM   #35
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Check these out http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...mp_p_1467.html

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Old January 11th, 2012, 11:56 PM   #36
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do not use this...not necessary for your application...use the exhaust style flange like Mcloven suggested and you will be fine
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Old January 12th, 2012, 12:06 AM   #37
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do not use this...not necessary for your application...use the exhaust style flange like Mcloven suggested and you will be fine
Why do you say that? I've never used one or even held one, but it seems to be a pretty trick way to have a removable tube. That and I like how clean they look compared to the flange.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 12:14 AM   #38
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Why do you say that? I've never used one or even held one, but it seems to be a pretty trick way to have a removable tube. That and I like how clean they look compared to the flange.
cost vs affect....in his application I would use the exhaust style flange as well as depending on the clocking of that connection could make it a pain in the ass
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Old January 12th, 2012, 12:27 AM   #39
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cost vs affect....in his application I would use the exhaust style flange as well as depending on the clocking of that connection could make it a pain in the ass
Ok that makes sense, I was just wondering if they weren't strong enough or had any known issues with them. If alix4d decided to use those he could mount them so that the tube slid out vertically. But like you said, you could screw yourself over with this setup if you mounted them wrong.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 12:30 AM   #40
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no those things are strong as shit...I use them to remove the back part of my cage...but they fit very tight...hell I even had to grind the paint off to get them to fit
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