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Old October 13th, 2011, 07:33 AM   #1
rjtlawncare
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Default 1994 f250 XL 5.8L 4x4 QUESTIONS

1994 F250 XL 5.8L 4X4 146,000 MILES

1. Can't get the 4x4 to disengage. But when I put it in N and put the shifter to 2Hi it make a noise as if it was getting out of 4Hi, but the 4x4 light stays on. Had someone watch to see if the front drive shaft was spinning and it is, but was told that it does spin in 2Hi and 4Hi. IS THIS TRUE--- THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT ROTATES ALL THE TIME, AND WHEN YOU PUT THE TRUCK IN 4HI AND LOCK THE HUBS YOU ARE NOW IN 4HI.

2. The 4x4 floor shifter is very hard to move, can move it maybe a couple of inches, just enough to hear it drop into 4Hi. The 4x4 light comes on but the low range light is yet to come on. Is there a release on these shifters so I can move it throughout it's travel or what???

3. WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR 4X4 IS WORKING?? PUT IT ON BLOCKS AND RUN IT???

4. If the truck is in 4Hi and you don't have the manual hubs in the LOCK POSITION, are you in 4Hi??? Is this good/bad. What does this do to the truck??

5.When I engage the brake pedal it makes a hissing sound and the ABS light sometimes comes on. Should I replace the brake booster and master??? When the ABS light is on does that mean the calipers are bad????

This is my first post and would greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me. Thanks Again
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Old October 13th, 2011, 11:30 PM   #2
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2. In order to engage low range you need the truck in neutral and and once the t/case is in neutral press down on that lever and pull back.
4. No. the hubs must be locked in order for the wheels to be powered.
1. I don't think that this is true that the front drive always spins. Have you tried to switch out of 4x4 while rolling. I know my dad's would take a second or two to engage/disengage once clicked in because the gears needed to line up/sync or un-sync while moving. With the hubs locked in you should be should be able to switch between 2hi and 4 hi at any speed. The throw on the linkage might be out of adjustment a little which might explain why the front drive turns because it is not fully disengaged.
Hope this helps you out some.
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Old October 16th, 2011, 10:06 PM   #3
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Well today got the truck to engage into low range or at least the light on the dash came on. And yes I was in neutral and at a complete stop. I'm Still having problems with the 4x4 light on and it being in 4hi. I've tried to roll back and forth but it will not go off. The travel in the shifter arm is all the way forward, so my question is how does the truck DISENGAGE WHEN THE LEVER IS ALL THE WAY UP IN ITS TRAVEL????? If it will not DISENGAGE can i JUST KEEP THE MANUAL HUBS IN THE FREE POSITION, AND NOT BE IN 4HI, AND WHEN I NEED TO GO INTO 4HI JUST GET OUT AND LOCK THE HUBS???? IS THIS OK TO RUN THE TRUCK LIKE THIS WITH THE 4X4 LIGHT ON AND THE HUBS IN THE FREE POSITION??? Please any help from you guys would be great, this is my first 4x4 and I'm a little confused
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Old October 16th, 2011, 11:54 PM   #4
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With your hubs in the "free" position, the front shafts will spin inside the hubs so if it is stuck in 4 hi, yes you can run it like that temporarily. You should inspect your hubs to make sure there is enough grease in there so nothing over heats and binds up to break. You could also have a bad shift sensor on your transfer case. It is most likely stuck in the closed position to indicate 4 hi, but when put into the 2 hi position, the switch does not reset to show it has disengaged.

My opinion, to check for 4 wheel drive, is to put it on jack stands and when the truck is running keep someone in the truck to do the function test and shut the rig down if something goes wrong. DO NOT DO IT BY YOURSELF. It is too risky to chance it.

While the truck is on the stands in the air and NOT RUNNING, you can watch the stick on the transfer case move when the other person shifts it. You may just need a can of PB Blaster and soak the hell out of the joints, or you may need to adjust the linkage.

Also check your transmission mount. If it seems off or broken or rotted, just spend the $25 and replace it.
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Old October 18th, 2011, 08:01 PM   #5
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Thanks for all the replies so far I will PB Blast the linkage tomorrow to see if it frees up the travel in the 4x4 shifter arm.

I'm still confused on the front drive shaft rotating. It's the arm(Drive Shaft??) that comes out of the transfer case and links to the front axle. DOES THIS ARM ROTATE WHEN THE TRUCK IS IN 4HI AND WHEN THE TRUCK IS IN 2HI IT DOES NOT ROTATE????

Also the brake pedal has alot of travel in it and I was told from a guy who tinkers with trucks that THIS is caused by the REAR BRAKES, AND OR THE PARKING BRAKE BEING BAD. Is this true. It does make a hissing sound sometimes when I press the pedal down. Could that be a brake booster going bad or do all these OLDER FORDS DO THIS.
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Old October 18th, 2011, 09:08 PM   #6
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#1: It should, if working properly, disengage immeadiately. The trucks require no movement the disengage. The front driveshaft should spin freely when the hubs are not locked and transfercase in 2hi. it should only spin if the hubs are locked in, or the t-case is in 4 hi, or both. other wise you can spin it by hand sitting still.

#2:The shifters on these trucks are known to corrode because no one bothers to notice that the linkage has a grease fitting on it, grease this and you should be fine.

#3: go somehwere that you arent afraid to tear up and gas it. if the rear tires only break loose you are in 2. if it pulls almost like its on pavement with little to no slip, you are in four.

#4: short answer is yes. our bw1356 transfercases are meant only for low speed, low traction situations. They over heat at higher speeds and eventually end up destroyed needing a complete rebuild or replacement. I wouldnt recommend taking it beyond 50-55 MPH for extended periods of time in this condition.

#5: Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, listen to the booster with the truck running as someone pushes the brakes for you, it could be internal or external. And yes, your pedal trave could be caused by rear brakes if the are that worn or that far oout of adjustment.

to check if its the transfer case or hubs i will describe how to check them both.
use something to block the back tires from rolling.

jack up both fronts. disengage the hubs and spin the tires, if they are truly disengaged, the tire will spin but the axle shaft will not(the part that you see between the axle and the wheel with a ujoint in it). this method applies to both sides. if the axle shafts spin, your problem lies within the hub(s).

to check the transfer case, put it into the normal 2wd position that it should be in for normal on road, high speed driving. try to spin the driveshaft, if it does NOT move, the issue lies within the transfer case.

Hope this all helps.

Last edited by eagle-eye; October 18th, 2011 at 09:12 PM.
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