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Old September 1st, 2011, 03:25 PM   #21
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When it is let me know, I have been pricing them at local yards and considering installing one on my 97 .
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Old September 1st, 2011, 03:28 PM   #22
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Doing good just like your boat
except the boat was taken apart once, not by choice, and the palehorse was taken apart 100 times by choice when it actually worked perfectly fine and it will never be finished, much like your cummins swap.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 03:45 PM   #23
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Whoops - I can see I'm too late...

Never use drilled rotors on anything you expect to stop safely (for long).
well that depends on your setup...however there are no setups that are made to work with a f250....I wouldn't think about using anything except drilled rotors on my race bikes as solid rotors would turn into a glowing hot mess
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Old September 1st, 2011, 05:22 PM   #24
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well that depends on your setup...however there are no setups that are made to work with a f250....I wouldn't think about using anything except drilled rotors on my race bikes as solid rotors would turn into a glowing hot mess
I found these pretty easy, http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...ads---4WD.html

I just called 2 auto part stores and compared to them 4 new rotors and semi metallic pads run around $300, rotors at $55-60 each and pads from $35-45 a set.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 06:36 PM   #25
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The holes will give them better cooling but they also tend to initiate cracks. For a DD I think it will probably be ok as you won't be temperature cycling them like you would on a race car.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 07:47 PM   #26
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I found these pretty easy, http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...ads---4WD.html

I just called 2 auto part stores and compared to them 4 new rotors and semi metallic pads run around $300, rotors at $55-60 each and pads from $35-45 a set.
those are cheap china crap, not a good setup...

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The holes will give them better cooling but they also tend to initiate cracks. For a DD I think it will probably be ok as you won't be temperature cycling them like you would on a race car.
cracks huh? and the holes are there for cooling and nothing else? you know this how?....I wonder why none of my race bike ever cracked? also isn't it a good idea to drill a hole at the end of a crack to stop it?
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Old September 1st, 2011, 08:14 PM   #27
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those are cheap china crap, not a good setup...

cracks huh? and the holes are there for cooling and nothing else? you know this how?....I wonder why none of my race bike ever cracked? also isn't it a good idea to drill a hole at the end of a crack to stop it?
For a fifty Buck experiment ill try them out, I have no expectations for them to perform like a set of full ceramics on a Porsche.

Like all the work that im doing on the truck, im shooting for slightly better the stock. Nothing drastic individually but as a greater combination should lead to a truck that was better then when it drove off the new sales lot.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 08:57 PM   #28
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well that depends on your setup...however there are no setups that are made to work with a f250....I wouldn't think about using anything except drilled rotors on my race bikes as solid rotors would turn into a glowing hot mess
Most rotors on your race bikes are probably cast with the holes, not drilled.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 08:58 PM   #29
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cracks huh? and the holes are there for cooling and nothing else? you know this how?....I wonder why none of my race bike ever cracked? also isn't it a good idea to drill a hole at the end of a crack to stop it?
Cast holes are good - drilled holes leave a sharp edge that encourages / propagates cracks.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 09:07 PM   #30
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Most rotors on your race bikes are probably cast with the holes, not drilled.
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Cast holes are good - drilled holes leave a sharp edge that encourages / propagates cracks.
no drilled, however my rotors were all fullfloat...the cracks most people see are a result of the rotor material being wrong, the fact its not a full or semi float style rotor you end up with the cracks...I'm sure you know but rotors flex alot when under heavy braking. with solid rotors you can get away with using a cheaper grade of steel than is required with the drilled rotors...I have a buddy that is with wilwood..he knows more about brakes than anyone should know about brakes
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Old September 1st, 2011, 09:29 PM   #31
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we experimented a bit at Mitsubishi when I was there - we found all drilled rotors cracked (well, all in the materials we were looking at) and a few had catastrophic failure.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 09:45 PM   #32
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full float, or semi float reduce the surface stresses when flexing under load as wells as eliminating warp...which help stop if not eliminate the cracking issues...you want to see a nice brake rotor failure, you should see a carbon fiber rotor let go when it's ready! impressive!
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Old September 1st, 2011, 11:16 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Center Hancho View Post
those are cheap china crap, not a good setup...



cracks huh? and the holes are there for cooling and nothing else? you know this how?....I wonder why none of my race bike ever cracked? also isn't it a good idea to drill a hole at the end of a crack to stop it?
Yes, but holes introduce stress concentrations. The reason people drill holes is because it will reduce the stress compared to the tip of a crack.

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Originally Posted by ScOoTeR View Post
Cast holes are good - drilled holes leave a sharp edge that encourages / propagates cracks.
This

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the cracks most people see are a result of the rotor material being wrong
I won't disagree with that
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 08:18 AM   #34
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Quote:
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full float, or semi float reduce the surface stresses when flexing under load as wells as eliminating warp...which help stop if not eliminate the cracking issues...you want to see a nice brake rotor failure, you should see a carbon fiber rotor let go when it's ready! impressive!
That's because carbon fiber isn't plastic enough to deform - so when it lets go - KAPOW! I've seen a couple CF bikes fail in crashes and it sounds similar to a rifle being fired.

Anyway, I'm NOT disagreeing with you, Baby, just saying the rotors Andy is going to buy are dangerous. OEM companies put their parts through a shitton of durability development and testing. How much you think those drilled and slotted rotors have for the superduty? The last thing I would want on my towrig would be aftermarket "performance" rotors. Just sayin...
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 09:22 AM   #35
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That's because carbon fiber isn't plastic enough to deform - so when it lets go - KAPOW! I've seen a couple CF bikes fail in crashes and it sounds similar to a rifle being fired.

Anyway, I'm NOT disagreeing with you, Baby, just saying the rotors Andy is going to buy are dangerous. OEM companies put their parts through a shitton of durability development and testing. How much you think those drilled and slotted rotors have for the superduty? The last thing I would want on my towrig would be aftermarket "performance" rotors. Just sayin...
I've agreed with you on every step of this...like I told andy they don't make a drilled rotor for the f250 that would be worth using
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 09:22 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by ScOoTeR View Post
That's because carbon fiber isn't plastic enough to deform - so when it lets go - KAPOW! I've seen a couple CF bikes fail in crashes and it sounds similar to a rifle being fired.

Anyway, I'm NOT disagreeing with you, Baby, just saying the rotors Andy is going to buy are dangerous. OEM companies put their parts through a shitton of durability development and testing. How much you think those drilled and slotted rotors have for the superduty? The last thing I would want on my towrig would be aftermarket "performance" rotors. Just sayin...
I think dangerous is a weeeee bit of a stretch in my opinion. Yes I have read where some drilled rotors have cracked and then others have had no problems at all.

Lets use this as an experiment. Ill do a proper break in when I install these and give regular updates on the performance. If they are junk ill say so, if they are decent ill report that too. I can give an unbiased report as after all its only money
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 09:24 AM   #37
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skooter isn't smart enough to realize you don't experiment with brakes on an 8,000 lb vehicle that may tow 10,-12,000 lbs on the roads we all drive on with our families.
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 09:41 AM   #38
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I've agreed with you on every step of this...like I told andy they don't make a drilled rotor for the f250 that would be worth using
Awesome - when do we make out?
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Old September 4th, 2011, 01:09 PM   #39
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holy fuckin brake discussion rage batman !
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Old September 6th, 2011, 01:19 PM   #40
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Now that the labor day "brake" is over im starting to wait for brown Santa to show. I should have all the steering components today, so I will start there and progress onward. I ordered my fender flares from a company called prestige, they make a bushwhacker knock off "bolt on" style for $290 versus $450 plus for the real one's. A slew of other parts will be arriving later on this week, like mirrors, inter cooler boots, tranny cooler fittings and other crap. Im still figuring out an 05-07 front bumper as good used ones are hard to find and aftermarket repop's range from $600-750 so I might have to wait a little bit.

2 things are left undecided, one major and one minor. Minor was the wheels, going with a set of raceline renegade's as they are a good looking wheel for cheap, $120 for polished and $175 for chrome, ill probably go chrome as they will clean up easier then unsealed polished. I thought about a set of xd diesel wheels
for a minute but didn't like their cost, around $1000 and I don't fit in the flat bill/monster energy crowd bro!

The paint is the major issue as I don't know if I want to keep it all white or Have the lower half painted a dark grey with a mix of bed liner on certain areas to prevent stone chips.
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