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Old August 21st, 2011, 04:52 PM   #1
Plato2k5
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Default beadlock rims

looking at purchasing a set of allied 15 x 8 rims. Is there any reason one would go for the aluminium over the steel other than a few lbs?
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Old September 5th, 2011, 09:50 AM   #2
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Aluminum is stronger, steel actually bends quite easily.
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Old September 5th, 2011, 09:54 AM   #3
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Steel you can bend back . Aluminum will bend then crack.

I have run/running diy steel beadlocks. I would like to eventually get some aluminum beadlocks to cut weight.
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Old September 5th, 2011, 11:09 AM   #4
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I went to an aluminum wheel to "save weight" too but actually only saved a couple pounds per wheel. I went from recentered H1's with a cut down magnesium runflat and outer bead protectors to 17" spiderlocks. The issue is that when going to an offroad aluminum wheel they make them so thick that it really doesn't save a whole lot of weight.
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Old September 5th, 2011, 11:11 AM   #5
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hmm interesting...I think with my LTB, 16x8 soft 8's and 32 bolt beadlocks I am at approx 160lbs.
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Old September 5th, 2011, 11:18 AM   #6
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39.5 Iroks on 15 x 10 steel DIY beadlocks weigh about 10 pounds less per corner than 39" Krawlers on 17 x 9 aluminum beadlocks. Aluminum is thicker and therefore the weight savings is not what people think. Just like cheapthrill said, I have bent a steel wheel in the field and been able to beat it back into place to hold air. That was one of the major reasons I stayed away from aluminum for so long. So far, I haven't bent an aluminum one yet. Here's hoping...........

If you're wanting a good wheel for cheap, go steel.
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Old September 5th, 2011, 02:32 PM   #7
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Most of the aluminum beadlocks are just as heavy, about 45 lbs or so each.

IF you want to save weight, go with less bolts. 18 or 24 bolts, compared to 30+. 36 bolts = lot of weight.
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Old September 5th, 2011, 03:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Most of the aluminum beadlocks are just as heavy, about 45 lbs or so each.

IF you want to save weight, go with less bolts. 18 or 24 bolts, compared to 30+. 36 bolts = lot of weight.
You made a funny.
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Old September 6th, 2011, 05:35 PM   #9
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I like the fact I can hammer the inner bead of my H1 wheels back in shape if I drive like an idiot.

I just do not have the cool factor of the others.

I have yet to see a GOOD offroad wheel get damaged to the point it would not hold air.
Just me tho, I haven't been around much.
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Old September 6th, 2011, 08:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman Offroad View Post
I like the fact I can hammer the inner bead of my H1 wheels back in shape if I drive like an idiot.

I just do not have the cool factor of the others.

I have yet to see a GOOD offroad wheel get damaged to the point it would not hold air.
Just me tho, I haven't been around much.
I remember that.
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Old September 6th, 2011, 09:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman Offroad View Post
I like the fact I can hammer the inner bead of my H1 wheels back in shape if I drive like an idiot.

I just do not have the cool factor of the others.

I have yet to see a GOOD offroad wheel get damaged to the point it would not hold air.
Just me tho, I haven't been around much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
I remember that.
I have pics!
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Old September 13th, 2011, 05:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
hmm interesting...I think with my LTB, 16x8 soft 8's and 32 bolt beadlocks I am at approx 160lbs.
Same tire but with a hutchison Alum beadlocks with rubber inserts

"Tires are 16/40-16 Interco LTB's at 101lbs/tire
Rims are GM stock aluminum beadlocks made by Hutchison and weigh 48lbs on the scale."
So 149lbs per corner but I'm guessing that CTB2's are really close in weight to mine. I just took time to jump on the scale with one to find out what they really weighed. I'm also going to add a steel ring to the inside of the lip on mine, the alum lip keeps getting chewed up on my beadlocks.
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