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Old August 3rd, 2011, 10:44 AM   #1
deathbypsi
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Default Overheating troubleshooting help

My 5.0 Bronco2 is having some overheating issues and Im looking for some input from you guys.

My motor is all brand new inside and out with less than 5000 miles on it. I used a Moroso HV waterpump {yes spinning right way},underdrive pullies,180 stat,a new 91 Explorer HD radiator and a Flexalite electric fan made for Mustangs.

As soon as outside temps get above 85 or so the truck will run between 210 and 240.At nite or in cooler temps it sits right at 190.Once its hot doesnt matter how I drive it temps will not come down.Only sitting will.

I built my own core support to hold this radiator {since my core was rusted out} and its about as big as I can possibly fit in the truck.Im wondering if my rad is on the small side for this engine could I play with waterpump pullies to slow down the water flow to keep the coolant in the rad longer to pull more heat out to help? I was thinking with the HV pump and no overdrive trans I might be pushing the coolant thru the rad faster than it can pull the heat away.

I will post pix later of the whole setup.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 11:00 AM   #2
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is there an underdrive on the water pump... there shouldnt be...if there is change it to a stock one....you dont want the water pump spining slower than stock.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 11:10 AM   #3
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-Do you have a fan shroud? Making sure that the fan is pulling through ALL of the radiator is key.
-Years ago I tried a HV water pump and it made things worse. Almost as if the water didn't stay in the radiator long enough to exchange the heat.
-Is your engine bay holding the heat in?
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 11:13 AM   #4
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x2 on the shroud, also make sure people are having luck with the electric fan you chose. some claim to move a lot of air but don't cut it.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 11:27 AM   #5
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I had an electric fan in my CJ for a while and as soon as the temp got up and the fan kicked on it ran constant but wouldn't keep the temp down. Some have luck with them but it wasn't there for me, switched back and it ran fine. It's a possibility to look into. also X3 on the shroud can make a huge difference.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 11:41 AM   #6
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I had more thoughts but it looks like some have covered them

X2 on the fan shroud! You might have an air bubble in the system..try running it with the rad cap off for a min...as long as its your high point of the system...hv pump might be flowing to much..there are restrictors you can get that would cost less than a new pump..I don't know where to get them or what size to use...we make our own at work cause its cheaper and the engineers figure out the size some how
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 12:13 PM   #7
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Key bit of info:

Is it running hot when driving easy at 60mph? In stop and go traffic? Both?

Typically the fan and shroud issues are relevent at low or no speed, and your cooling capacity itself would be at higher road speeds, where the fan doesn't really do much for you...
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 12:47 PM   #8
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I'm not buying the "water moving to fast to cool" argument. As long as the radiator is full and the coolant is moving fast enough it will cool. Given a choice between cooling a little water a lot (low flow) and cooling a lot of water a little bit (high flow) the later should give the most cooling. Now if the pump is trying to push though more coolant than the system can handle that could be a problem.

As other have suggested it could be an issue of getting enough air flow though the entire radiator.

I also wonder what you mean by "overheating". Is it actually getting to the point of blowing out steam? Or is it just that the temp gauge is pointing at a higher number that you think it should?
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:04 PM   #9
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Never had any luck with aftermarket electric fans.put a mech fan on it if you have room.
X2036 on the shroud.
you could try a 195 stat to keep the coolant in the rad longer.
Did you use a v8 exlpoder rad? Maybe not big enough,if it was a 4.0?
The motor being fresh will make a little extra heat,but shouldn't be a problem.
Had a similer issue with a 355 in a xj,had to louver the hood the get the heat out,it was just to tight to cool with the rad i had.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewmenn View Post
I'm not buying the "water moving to fast to cool" argument. As long as the radiator is full and the coolant is moving fast enough it will cool. Given a choice between cooling a little water a lot (low flow) and cooling a lot of water a little bit (high flow) the later should give the most cooling. Now if the pump is trying to push though more coolant than the system can handle that could be a problem.

As other have suggested it could be an issue of getting enough air flow though the entire radiator.

I also wonder what you mean by "overheating". Is it actually getting to the point of blowing out steam? Or is it just that the temp gauge is pointing at a higher number that you think it should?
You may not buy it but I changed one single thing. My heating issue got worse. I put a standard flow pump back in and my heating issue got better. Simple as that.

We've done a lot of work and testing here regarding cooling of plate in steel mills. Yes, if you pass a medium too fast, it will not cool.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
You may not buy it but I changed one single thing. My heating issue got worse. I put a standard flow pump back in and my heating issue got better. Simple as that.

We've done a lot of work and testing here regarding cooling of plate in steel mills. Yes, if you pass a medium too fast, it will not cool.
X2 on water needing to stay in the radiator longer than it will without a restriction of some sort (thermostat).

You could have a simple gauge calibration issue, or maybe 210 isn't overheating. Does it spew water when you stop? My 302 ran at 210 no matter what I was doing. The oil pump failed at Silver Lake a few weeks ago, but until then I had never had a problem with it.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 09:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdd1469 View Post
you could try a 195 stat to keep the coolant in the rad longer.
That will only delay when the hot water starts going into the radiator.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 09:27 PM   #13
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are you using the factory sensor in the motor, or did you relocate it? do you trust your guage? 50/50 blend? i know these might seem like dumb questions but might get lucky and get a simple fix too...
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 09:34 PM   #14
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I would start with an aftermarket gauge if you are still using the stock one.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 07:38 AM   #15
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OK guys let me try and answer all your questions first...

Im using a March underdrive 3 pulley kit for a Mustang. The crank pulley is smaller to slow down the acc and the other two pullies are larger than stock.So wouldnt that slow the waterpump down way more than the stock pullies? The crank is spinning slower from a being smaller and the waterpump pulley is larger so wouldnt that slow it down even more?


As far as the overheating the truck has had 3 complete boil overs at SilverLake and BundyHill when temps went over 240. Once it gets hot it dont matter if I let it idle or drive it fast or drive it slow the temps will barely come down to 210-215. I have tried a 160,185 and 195 t-stat and none made a diff.But on a day like today I could drive it to work from Toledo to AnnArbor and in the morning{5am} it will stay right at 190 and on the drive home {3pm} it will run at 230 .

I use 2 gauges. I use the factory dash gauge with a new sending unit in the front corner of the lower intake.I also use a aftermarket gauge in the t-stat housing after the t-stat that reads after water is flowing. Both gauges indicate the same things happening.

Here is my fan/rad/coolers setup.
Front side.

Back side

Installed



Hood vents

Highest point of system has this cap in it right over the alt.


My buddy seems to think its just the size of the fan but wouldnt driving on the e-way help drop temps if that were the case?
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Old August 4th, 2011, 08:24 AM   #16
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i would say its either the lack of fan shroud Or it could also be the two coolers you have on the front of the radiator.There needs to be a air gap between the coolers and the radiator. I would try making a shroud so the fan pulls from the whole radiator. I had the same issue with my bigblock camaro and went round and round with it.found a company that built me a shroud and ran my same electric fan and my problems never came back.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 09:01 AM   #17
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Is that this fan?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-111/
"Electric Fan, Single, 12 in. Diameter, S-Blade, Puller, 1,250 cfm, Black, Plastic, Each"

If so, that seems underpowered for what you need. I dunno that it would be enough, even if you built up a shroud.

If you want to go electric, it seems that either stepping up to a better fan (like this one) or going the junkyard route with the Ford Taurus fan and a shroud.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 09:20 AM   #18
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Yeah thats my fan.

I just couldnt find another fan that wasnt to big for the rad core. I will hit up the local junkyard in the morn and see what I can turn up.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 11:56 AM   #19
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You could try moving your coolers,tempororily hang them some where else,see what happeneds.
It looks like a decent sized radiator,plenty of air flow thru the grill.the fan should not matter on the highway,as much.
make sure the air is forced into the rad,if it hits your rad and can go around instead of thru,it will,most trucks have rubber panels in front of the rad,did you remove any?
Try putting stock pulleys on it,never saw a benifit with underdrive pulleys on a dd.the few hp they gain is not worth the hassel to me.
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Old August 4th, 2011, 06:30 PM   #20
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With my 302 I ran this radiator - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-380424/
and this fan - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPER...Q5fAccessories

Thermostat and water pump are stock replacements and I have a March pulley set as well with a slight underdrive.

When this was in the 4x4 - I rarely ever got above 210* on or off road as long as the radiator wasn't packed with mud. I wasn't running inner fenders either, which might be part of your issue. Try removing the inner fenders for a day or two, if it help then you might need to add some ducting to them to help the heat pass through the engine bay.

This set-up in 4X2 (currently) - Even on the hottest days I don't see temps over 200*, this truck has all fender inserts.

It seems you may be suffering from an inefficient/undersized radiator. The fan is a little weak as well, but if you aren't seeing a drop in temps at 55mph versus slower speeds then the fan really isn't the main cause of the issue. As mentioned before, make certain you don't have any air in the system. Air can wreak havoc on the efficiency of the best cooling system. Having dealt with my similar 5.0 swaps, I know it can be a huge task to bleed the air out, especially with the crazy hose routing that goes on.

Good Luck
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