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Old November 3rd, 2011, 05:09 PM   #101
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Tacking the caps won't keep the ears from stretching. They just keep the caps from coming out if the snap ring fails. I've seen a lot of people do it but I've never seen the need if the yoke is in good shape. If it's not in good shape, you're going to have joint failure anyway.
The caps on my last set of shafts were tacked. Itís the stretching of the ears that Iím concerned with. Iím getting a new set of shafts from Bevertown, and Iím trying to find ways to keep them in one piece. Iím hoping that the added steel will keep ears together.
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Old November 4th, 2011, 07:20 AM   #102
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Will do more harm than good... Only way to fix that issue is with better shafts.
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Old November 5th, 2011, 04:27 PM   #103
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Where did you get the clamp and wedges for the front axle?
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Old November 5th, 2011, 10:52 PM   #104
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That’s a factory design, Ford used the wedges to attach their radius arms to the axle. Nice thing about the wedge design is that you can buy degreed bushings to achieve the proper caster angle. Another nice thing about the wedge design is that the coil mounts on top of the radius arm mount, saving a ton of room on the axle.
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Old November 5th, 2011, 10:56 PM   #105
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Will do more harm than good... Only way to fix that issue is with better shafts.
Yeah after researching some more that is what I’ve come to realize. Good thing BLZR showed me this http://www.overstockdiffparts.com/Default.aspx

Hopefully I can have enough saved up to get a set of shafts before Snofari.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 01:14 AM   #106
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i understand its factory but i have seen a couple people use just the ends like you did with D.O.M tubing and better joints. so i was wondering if you can buy the wedges and clamps. i want to do a radius arm like you did to a fullsize chevy.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 01:06 AM   #107
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Kyle M. bought the weld-on wedges for his new 60, I’m sure he could tell you where to find them. As for the clamp part I’m not sure, but finding a used set shouldn't be hard. A junk yard might have a set or just post in the wanted section and you could have a set in a day or two.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 01:07 AM   #108
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hows it on the road and out on the trails?
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Old November 6th, 2011, 10:35 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wadey View Post
Kyle M. bought the weld-on wedges for his new 60, Iím sure he could tell you where to find them. As for the clamp part Iím not sure, but finding a used set shouldn't be hard. A junk yard might have a set or just post in the wanted section and you could have a set in a day or two.
prob jeff's bronco graveyeard possibly
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Old November 7th, 2011, 09:25 PM   #110
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hows it on the road and out on the trails?
Its super stable on the road, even without sway bars. I could use one for those windy days though. It rides a lot smother/softer than when it was IFS, even with leafs in the rear Iíd say it rides better than my buddyís tj

On the trail it is just as stable, Iím sure a lot of it is due having a wider WMS. The flex is great too, I donít get any binding as my coils are trapped and I lift a tire before it binds. The trapped coils also help with keeping it stable; you donít get those weird unloading characteristics. I havenít measured its RTI score but last time when I was at UORC there was a jeep on 42s next to the ramp and it looked like I could park on it. Iíll be able to tell you after Snofari, if I can get up on Bevertowns tire
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Old November 12th, 2011, 05:50 PM   #111
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So is it running? What was the problem?
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I got your jeep thing, now my damn Chevy wont start, and its missing a wheel.
My build: http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=206107
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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:00 PM   #112
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Donít know yet, but I pulled the driverís side valve cover and the valves are moving. But Iím going to check that the chain hasnít jumped tomorrow before work. After that Iím going to start working on checking electrical sensors.

School, work, and weather has kept me from working on it
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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:06 PM   #113
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just because the cam is turning does not mean it hasnt jumped timing, you might want to check and make sure the distributor is spinning too. I have a complete motor sitting at jj's if you need anything. Good luck with it, i wish i could be more help.
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I got your jeep thing, now my damn Chevy wont start, and its missing a wheel.
My build: http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=206107
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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:14 PM   #114
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Yeah the distributor spins at least Iím told by my buddies, but tomorrow Iím going to put #1 cylinder at TDC and make sure the distributer is pointing in the right direction. And Iím close to swapping motors, Iíve spent enough that I could of swapped in a lower mileage 4.3 at this point. Kinda pisses me off.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:24 PM   #115
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By the time you swap motors you could have put a 5.7 is my motor ran when pulled, has everything but the alternator, if it comes down to it i can make you a hell of a deal as i am considering scrapping it.
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I got your jeep thing, now my damn Chevy wont start, and its missing a wheel.
My build: http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=206107
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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:36 PM   #116
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Better get that thing running before snofari! I think ima need a new fuel pump before we go as it takes 2 cranks of the key to start. Btw I have a jeep they arnt suppose to ride smooth on the road besides I have a blown shock

As far as the ears stretching goes I feel your pain with the turdy. Thinking a d60 is the solution
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Old November 12th, 2011, 06:39 PM   #117
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Yeah you better fix that, but I don’t have room to talk lol. And remember how nice it rode when it was stock? It was sooo smooth.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 06:14 PM   #118
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What are you running for a front drive shaft ? I am still trying to figure out what to use on my 2000 sas s10 I know I need a double cardan upper at t case but all the j yards I have visted don't have any old chevy trucks
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Old November 13th, 2011, 08:32 PM   #119
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I switched the front output on my tcase to a 231j output and yoke. That allowed me to run a 2 door 4 cylinder 5 speed cherokee front drive shaft, which has a double cardan joint.
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 03:12 PM   #120
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Alright I think I have my no spark/no start issue figured out. I just checked the timing chain last night and it didn’t jump so that’s all good. And I just ordered a new computer from Autozone. I’m hopping that’s it, everything else checks out to be ok. The new computer comes in on Friday so ill find out then

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