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Old September 12th, 2012, 09:44 PM   #301
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Sweet Id love to check out the rig



And I have a ride home after I break it
Ya id like to wheel with you Aaron! Haha as long as I dont break ya lol. Might have to take 2 trips
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Old September 12th, 2012, 10:55 PM   #302
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Looking at making a tcase shifter and it need to be a lever of some sorts because it can't come directly up through the floor. I'm wondering if the fulcrum point on the shifter has to be mounted directly to the case or if it can be mounted to the body?

Here's the new 231c hd, 233c, and 231j combo case with jb conversions ss sye that's getting the new shifter next to the old 233.




Last edited by wadey; September 12th, 2012 at 11:06 PM.
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Old September 12th, 2012, 11:51 PM   #303
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I wouldnt mount it to the body, correct me if I am wrong but the driveline and body flexes and it may bend ut easier that way?
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Old September 13th, 2012, 06:29 AM   #304
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You can do it either way but I would mount it to the case
The tjs xjs and zjs mount Otto the body and there is the possibility o it popping out of gear with drive train movement
The yjs mount it to the case and there is no possibility of that
You could probably just modify a yj shifter to get it to work
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Old September 13th, 2012, 07:17 AM   #305
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Cable shifter

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
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Old September 13th, 2012, 07:35 AM   #306
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Click image for larger version

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This is the one on my jeep
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Old September 27th, 2012, 10:19 AM   #307
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Well I looked into a cable shifter but the parts alone would be over $100, so Ill try a building shift levers instead.

Also last week I recived my new drive shaft from Oliver's Custom Drive Shaft http://www.oliverscustomdriveshaft.com/

.250 DOM shaft with 1350 U-joints



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Old September 27th, 2012, 09:06 PM   #308
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I am missing my S10 right now... keep up with the badassness and the DD.
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I got your jeep thing, now my damn Chevy wont start, and its missing a wheel.
My build: http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=206107
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Old October 7th, 2012, 04:14 PM   #309
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I am missing my S10 right now... keep up with the badassness and the DD.
So it finally sank all the way into the back yard?

Thanks, Just doing little things here and there now. Like my new transfercase shifter. NO MORE push button bs!!




All thread and these little joints from TSC


Also found the perfect use for my Alloy USA u joint caps. Hope they hold!! Fingers crossed...

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Old October 11th, 2012, 09:52 AM   #310
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I have to give a big thanks out to Kevin at Energy Suspension! I had lost a bump stop in the dunes early this year. It was over a year old and I thought I was sol but figured a phone call wouldn't hurt and I was right. They sent me out a new one right away!



Now the plan is to figure out a way to sandwich the new one so it cant come off again.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 11:25 AM   #311
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I broke a bunch of that style. Bump cans FTW. Get the ones with elastomers inside them if you can't afford the real ones.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 02:11 PM   #312
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Yep I've broke 3 or 4 so far.

I need air bumps
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Old October 14th, 2012, 10:10 AM   #313
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Yep I've broke 3 or 4 so far.

I need air bumps
love my airbumps!!!!
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Old October 14th, 2012, 10:33 AM   #314
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One of these days I'm gonna have air bumps too...
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Old October 14th, 2012, 06:22 PM   #315
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Bumps are definitely on the want list. Hopefully I can make these work for the time being tho. I think the problem is caused by not having a flat place to hit, because mine only hit on the axle tube. I also want to sandwich the rubber on to the backing plate. Hopefully those two things will keep them in one piece.

Today I finished up my t case shifter by fitting trimming the center console, and started on my cb mount. No pics until tomorrow or whenever it quits raining...
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Old October 17th, 2012, 02:00 PM   #316
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Anyone know how to remove the doors? I have power everything and all of the conections go straight from the harness to the switches, so other than cutting there doesnt seem to be a way to remove them.


Also is it possiable for an assist ram to push the wheels further than the steering box can? If it is I can get some much needed turning radius.
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Old October 17th, 2012, 03:32 PM   #317
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there should be a electrical connector in the kick pannel for the doors, should be, its been a long time sense i have taken apart your style of blazer.

as for the assist ram, you dont want to puch it farther than the steering can already, that will put strees on the steering parts and a failure is going to happen quickly I would asume. Check to make sure you knuckles are turning to there total. if not then you might be able to get a longet pitman arm to turn the wheels farther, then you can run a ram to that amount of steering movement.
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Old October 17th, 2012, 07:42 PM   #318
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I just found out the connector is inside of the door its self for the 99's and up.


That's what I thought. Makes sense because the box will be at the stops. I need a longer pitman arm anyways, but I was seeing if could get away with out one.
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Old October 17th, 2012, 07:44 PM   #319
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Not sure on your knuckles but you could also move the mount in towards the ball joint this will give you more swing but less turning power.
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Old October 22nd, 2012, 03:26 PM   #320
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Quote:
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Not sure on your knuckles but you could also move the mount in towards the ball joint this will give you more swing but less turning power.
I have tried this a couple times back and forth to see the diffrence, it was little if any, i think i just wanted it to be better in my head.

In the old days of the K5 balzers to get a good turning radius Chevy made the rear track 6 inches narrower, you could try somthing like that with maybe a spacer up front.

I feel your pain i need to redo my steering to get it to turn better, and easier, I have a spool up front too. A waggy pitman arm and steering box out of a astro van is what I need.

Un till then I have been using my muscles to turn the wheel, mastering the 100 point turn, and popping it out of 4wd and powering around corners.
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