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Old July 20th, 2011, 04:24 PM   #41
Toncomb
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I'm going to catch flak for this but,

I personally love the cv style shafts. If they break they break, but you can drive with a broken one. Advance auto sells the complete assembly, lifetime guaranteed for about $70, look them up for a 95 or so ZJ with a V8. I broke multiple pinions and rings but only broke up one CV. I wore a couple out to where they'd start clicking then return for a new one.

Shoot I think Grandman was running them on his blue ZJ with 36's without issues.
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Old July 20th, 2011, 04:58 PM   #42
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You can drive with a broken u-jointed shaft too. You actually only need the outer part of the shaft to bolt to the hub to hold it together. It would be wise to stuff a rag or something down the tube to keep gear oil from getting all over but in order to get yourself off the trail you could run this way with severe consequences.
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Old July 20th, 2011, 05:59 PM   #43
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You can drive with a broken u-jointed shaft too. You actually only need the outer part of the shaft to bolt to the hub to hold it together. It would be wise to stuff a rag or something down the tube to keep gear oil from getting all over but in order to get yourself off the trail you could run this way with severe consequences.

Guess I should have said you can try to get off the trail and back out without any wrenching to remove axle shafts that are going to bind and break.
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Old July 21st, 2011, 07:51 AM   #44
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Ok, I may have to agree somewhat with Toncomb here. The cv shafts in the v8 ZJ are actually very good. At least in a straight line lol. At full lock is when the CV becomes the weakest so as long as you're not WOT all the time going lock to lock, they work very well.

The problem with them are the stupid rubber boot that always seem to crack and then gets packed with shit.

If I knew that they were only $70 a set for lifetime warranty, I would probably have keep getting those for my 97 ZJ.

and yes you can get about 35-40 mph before a broken cv shakes too bad to drive on the road lol. I have done it.

This is NOT the same as the cv at the front pinion. Those are a POS and should be swapped right away.
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Old July 21st, 2011, 09:22 PM   #45
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For $70 and lifetime thats pretty good. I broke at the dunes pulled the shaft cut the top of a pop bottle off stuck it in there and tapped it all off. Wheeled at the dunes a day and drove 4 hours home with no problems
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Old July 21st, 2011, 09:48 PM   #46
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You did leave the stub in the bearing right?
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 09:57 AM   #47
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Correct outer is still on just removed the inner
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 11:02 AM   #48
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S.hembree has 3 or so sets of D30 axle shafts for a TJ. PM him since he wants them gone.
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 11:05 AM   #49
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sent him a pm thanks!
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 11:30 AM   #50
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If you want chromos for your D30, we have about three options for you.

Least expensive is the build-your-own kit. It starts with USA Standard 4340 inners for $169. Same exact material as Yukons, same lifetime replacement warranty. Run stock stub shafts or add Yukon stub shafts for $178. That's $347 for lifetime warranty shafts. Add the u-joint of your choice or just get them locally:

http://completeoffroad.com/i-5933621...-multiple.html

Or you could buy a compete Yukon kit with super joints and everything is warrantied (only one year on the super joint caps):

http://completeoffroad.com/i-3775742...ine-24112.html

Or get the RCVs. I have them and run 37s with no issues (I did run stock axles for 4 years before that with no issues, but I'm not a throttle jockey):

http://completeoffroad.com/i-4277184...-rpscv-04.html
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 11:40 AM   #51
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You ran 37s on stock axles for 4 years? Locked....
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 11:45 AM   #52
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You ran 37s on stock axles for 4 years? Locked....
Not everyone breaks their shit all the time. I was on 35's from 2004 till 2008 and now on 37's since 2008.

Ausi in the rear and arb front.
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 11:58 AM   #53
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I also ran 37`s with lockers front and rear for about a year and a half.Only Broke 1 shaft and it wasnt the axles fault.
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 12:32 PM   #54
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Two words - throttle control
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 01:46 PM   #55
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I've only broke on shaft and it was the ears that broke in half probably due to the ujoint breaking or cap coming off. Ill be more careful and if I break another order those chromos. I was hard on it at the dunes and it broke doin a uturn at the top of the hill. I know how to use throttle control just didn't think it would break at the dunes
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 02:50 PM   #56
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First off in this picture (see attached)

Unless I am seeing/ missunderstanding this, this has to be the dumbest idea in the world. So when you wheel you need to make sure and carry a cut of wheel so you can simply replace a u-joint..


Also, I ran my Jeep 3 years on a super 30/35 (ARB's and 4:88s) with a 4.6 and a NV4500 and only broke a rear ring gear.

Buy some chromoly front shafts and wheel.

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Old July 22nd, 2011, 03:00 PM   #57
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Quote:
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You ran 37s on stock axles for 4 years? Locked....
not locked, True Trac
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 03:08 PM   #58
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and also remember that if you are locked up front, be very careful when your steering is at full lock. That is when the most torque is on the ujoint and yoke ears. That might explain your dunes incident.
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 10:38 PM   #59
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Ya that's probably why I broke in the dunes otherwise it hasn't been that bad. Ima try te stock shafts agin and if they break ill order chromos!
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Old July 22nd, 2011, 10:40 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benny87 View Post
First off in this picture (see attached)

Unless I am seeing/ missunderstanding this, this has to be the dumbest idea in the world. So when you wheel you need to make sure and carry a cut of wheel so you can simply replace a u-joint..


Also, I ran my Jeep 3 years on a super 30/35 (ARB's and 4:88s) with a 4.6 and a NV4500 and only broke a rear ring gear.

Buy some chromoly front shafts and wheel.
So no almost alloys? Got it! What size tires did you run?

I'm going to run what I got then buy chromos this they break again
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