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Old July 15th, 2011, 10:42 PM   #21
littletrucker
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Yea I have no recovery points front or rear..

You make it sound like you break shafts every trip??? If you only broke one shaft I wouldnt be worried about anything, It prolly had a whooped out u joint in it..

I wish you would make up your mind about how many shafts you have broken.. 1 or a lot
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Old July 15th, 2011, 11:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by junk90xj View Post
buy alloy shafts or take it easy on the gas pedal
X2

I have Superior alloys on my front driver side, they held up great when I took out my Diff, Aussie Locker and my Pass side U-joint. I currently have alloys for Pass side waiting to be put in and alloys on order for the rear (already broke a rear shaft once). It's amazing to me how easy 35s can break shafts with a tiny and tired 4banger for a power plant.
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Old July 16th, 2011, 12:07 AM   #23
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Broke one and wrecked one ujoint just tired of changing them already. Ya I think super30 shafts would help me! But I want one tons
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Old July 16th, 2011, 07:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey4506 View Post
300 on towards a 60 aint shit
I paid $300 for my front ford 60 deals are there if you know the right people who know the right spots to look.





On my old D35 I did the full circle clips on the stubs. While it worked for a short while, the clips still allows the caps to spin. With stock stubs being a weaker material then chrome molys, when the caps spin they take material and over time egg shape the holes causing the cap to sit loosely. I have since taack welded all my caps on all my joints. One decent tack at the meat of the ears has never caused an issue with any of my shafts wether it was my 44 or my current 60. One tack is still easy enough to break with a hammer at removal or with a grinder. But if tack make its small enough to still slide through the knuckle opening.
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Old July 16th, 2011, 09:07 AM   #25
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K one to talk with no recovery points lmao. I have only broke one shaft but it was in sand which shouldn't happen
I now think you might be an idiot.



























J/k i knew it a while ago.
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Old July 16th, 2011, 10:35 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
I paid $300 for my front ford 60 deals are there if you know the right people who know the right spots to look.





On my old D35 I did the full circle clips on the stubs. While it worked for a short while, the clips still allows the caps to spin. With stock stubs being a weaker material then chrome molys, when the caps spin they take material and over time egg shape the holes causing the cap to sit loosely. I have since taack welded all my caps on all my joints. One decent tack at the meat of the ears has never caused an issue with any of my shafts wether it was my 44 or my current 60. One tack is still easy enough to break with a hammer at removal or with a grinder. But if tack make its small enough to still slide through the knuckle opening.
Think ill tack weld the caps then. Will one tack be enough or should I do 2 and where the best part to weld them? Also can you get me a d60 for $500 or so lol....

Last edited by 2fst4you; July 16th, 2011 at 11:17 AM.
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Old July 16th, 2011, 10:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullsize4life View Post
I now think you might be an idiot.



























J/k i knew it a while ago.
Geez collin that's harsh coming from u. I know things can break in sand but they shouldn't as there is nothing for the tire to grab hard
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Old July 16th, 2011, 12:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
I paid $300 for my front ford 60 deals are there if you know the right people who know the right spots to look.





On my old D35 I did the full circle clips on the stubs. While it worked for a short while, the clips still allows the caps to spin. With stock stubs being a weaker material then chrome molys, when the caps spin they take material and over time egg shape the holes causing the cap to sit loosely. I have since taack welded all my caps on all my joints. One decent tack at the meat of the ears has never caused an issue with any of my shafts wether it was my 44 or my current 60. One tack is still easy enough to break with a hammer at removal or with a grinder. But if tack make its small enough to still slide through the knuckle opening.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fst4you View Post
Think ill tack weld the caps then. Will one tack be enough or should I do 2 and where the best part to weld them? Also can you get me a d60 for $500 or so lol....
Sheesh,.............. you really need to start reading before you ask more stupid questions.
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Old July 16th, 2011, 01:00 PM   #29
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Top of cap or on the back side?
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Old July 16th, 2011, 01:04 PM   #30
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top of the cap. have thick skin. you will need it here.

Hey man, just make a plan and stick to it. You ask way to many things without doing some research. We have all been in your shoes. You need to check out the 100 other threads on the ideas you have. Believe me some one has had the same thoughts as you at one time. In all seriousness if you have questions just pm some of the guys on here that have built rigs and wheel a bit. It will help in the long run.

Last edited by Fullsize4life; July 16th, 2011 at 01:10 PM.
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Old July 16th, 2011, 03:43 PM   #31
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Ok will do thanks!
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Old July 16th, 2011, 03:50 PM   #32
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I ran D30 alloy shafts on 35's locked without any real issues. I would say that adding the alloy shafts is the way to go and keep your stock ones as trail spares. One of my friends on here runs 37's locked on alloy shafts in a 30 and has broken only 1 with a lot of serious trips on them.

One tons are over rated and unless they are in your immediate future, upgrade your current ones and learn how to use the skinny pedal.
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Old July 16th, 2011, 05:15 PM   #33
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Think alloys might work for me then!
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Old July 16th, 2011, 05:33 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah's Ark View Post
I ran D30 alloy shafts on 35's locked without any real issues. I would say that adding the alloy shafts is the way to go and keep your stock ones as trail spares. One of my friends on here runs 37's locked on alloy shafts in a 30 and has broken only 1 with a lot of serious trips on them.

One tons are over rated and unless they are in your immediate future, upgrade your current ones and learn how to use the skinny pedal.

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Think alloys might work for me then!
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Old July 20th, 2011, 02:29 PM   #35
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What alloy shafts do I want? They have regular replacements, super30 shafts, chromos etc its a little confusing
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:34 PM   #36
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Call Randys and ask what they recommend
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:37 PM   #37
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Talk with some of the local vendors, they'll help you figure out what you need for what you're trying to do
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:46 PM   #38
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save the 5-600 the alloys will cost you and spend the money on rcv`s once and you wont have to change them agian. And everybody on here wont have to keep seeing this get bumped with the same questions over and over agian.
I can understand the want for one tons but i just read a post u started that u couldnt get a lug nut off.If thats the case theres no way u will be able to fab one tons under your jeep.
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Old July 20th, 2011, 03:59 PM   #39
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^ truth. At least not anytime soon in which case you'll have gotten your $$$ out of the RCV's.
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Old July 20th, 2011, 04:08 PM   #40
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I think you should weld the whole cap together. Tacking it will only cause a hot spot on one side. You should pre-heat the joint with a heat gun or something, then run a small bead all the way around, then dip it in 10w-30 to cool it off. Don't use water cus it will cool to fast. Do the caps one at a time. This will make it just as strong as Cro-mo with no money.
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