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Old February 14th, 2013, 01:45 PM   #141
jeepxj2007
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I started fixing the drivers floorboard. Here was the start of my own floor board I made...I thought it didn't fit too bad...and I hate sheet metal.
Next I built my steering. I should of just went with ruff stuff parts but I cheaped out and used stuff from eBay. In the long run it cost me I ended up ordering from ruff stuff like I did on most other things because the goon that sent me the wrong arms also sent me a messed up tube insert...I'm not sure what be made them out of but it was something other than mild steel...you could really tell when welding them it ran like crap. Anyways the treads were messed up and when I put the tie rod end in it called the threads and needless to say ruined the tre. Anyways here is my drag link. If anyone has good expert advice I'd like to hear it on this. I know the track bar and drag link are suppose to be close in angle or you will get bump steer. Needless to say mine aren't exactly the same. This won't see hardly if any road use ever so really no high speeds. If bump steer is all I will have from it I will live with it. If it has other ill effects I could lower the track bar frame mount some. It seems like it is a double edged sword however and the lower you go the more leverage it has against the frame. I do have it triangulates to the cradle, but still if I'm worrying of cracking the frame I'd rather live with bump steer. So leave it or change it?



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Old February 14th, 2013, 03:24 PM   #142
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Rework the axle mount to bring it up a little and you will be fine.
BTW we stock a bunch of the good rod ends/nuts/inserts.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 03:41 PM   #143
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removing the mount on the axle would pretty much require destroying the radius arm mount and everything cutting it off....i did a little more than just weld the outside of it... upper would be much more feasable and would gain more clearance to the cradle, it would do pretty much the same thing though regardless of what end i changed correct?

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Old February 14th, 2013, 03:41 PM   #144
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How much difference is there in length between the drag link and track bar? Looks like a lot and that will cause bump steer more than a little difference in the angles. I bet you shorten your drag link and attach it to your tierod you will be fine.

Something like this

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Old February 14th, 2013, 03:54 PM   #145
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Its more of the angle of the picture that throws off the length in proportion to eachother. They are fairly close, the distance isn't much different between center of pitman arm to center of frame track bar mount to the difference of center of axle end of drag link to center of frame axle mount. I like what you did though with that except I have already purchased all my tie rod ends, and heims look most practical, but I do have a set of 1 ton reams here, I could probably get away welding a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" to the top of the tie rod and ream it to the taper of the tie rod end.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 04:03 PM   #146
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Your picture got me thinking, I went out and actually measured it, it was off a little more than I thought, about 4". I'm thinking I'll cut the tube insert out and shorten it to the exact length of the track bar, or as close as it will allow me and mount it to the top of the tie rod with some 1/2" or 3/4" whatever the taper will allow me too without being too thick. I guess the only concern that comes up is how do you get your toe in that you need? You would almost have to have it set as close as possible then weld the tab directly on top. I have it pretty darn close right now to 1/8" toe in so that wouldn't be real hard, but I was just curious if you had any problem down the road say if you bent it slightly and had to adjust out a little, I guess with the fine threads you can get pretty close to the ballpark and the fact that this wont see pavement would probably be close enough.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 04:11 PM   #147
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I just try and build in enough adjustment, set the toe, straighten the steering wheel and tires, weld the drag link on.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 04:12 PM   #148
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You could always flip the tierod at the pitman arm too
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Old February 14th, 2013, 04:13 PM   #149
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I measured it again, it would be possible to make it the exact length, except the drag link will be a slightly flatter angle compared to track bar, but I think it will be closer than where I am at now. Can you get away with some difference in the two?

Also how critical is it that the drag link be parallel with the tie rod end when viewed from above coming off of the pitman arm? If I do this Y-link type and weld a tab to the tie rod end and put the tie rod body forwards it will bring me much closer to being parallel than where I am at now, and there isn't really any moving axle placement or the steering box the way the ford frame is up front.

Also I will keep that in mind Dale, you are much closer and would be easier than ordering parts and waiting a couple days versus going and just picking them up.

I also thought of flipping it like you say and going off of the top, except the way the taper is I dont think it would be possible to do it would it that the large portion of the taper is already on the bottom? I do have a tapered insert sitting right here, I just don't know how much it would weaken the pitman arm drilling it out to 7/8" to get the taper to drop into it. If you were to view the pitman arm from directly above the portion the tie rod end goes into is 1.375 diameter at its smallest portion, so putting a 7/8" hole in it would leave me with 1/4" of solid metal all the way around the hole in the weakest portion, slightly more in the middle. Would that be enough, or would the taper work inverted? I measured the top and bottom of the hole real quick and at quick glance I was rougly 5/8" up top and 3/4" on bottom ( those aren't super precise measurements) would the tie rod ride deeper on the pitman arm or is the bottom too bid now to be inverted?

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Old February 14th, 2013, 05:27 PM   #150
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I would leave the steering the way it is and spend time moving the track bar at the frame. The longer and flatter the drag link the less the wheels turn thru suspention cycle. A short drag link will tend to want to push the frame up rather than turn the wheels with the RF at full droop limiting your turning radius.
The y link setup also puts a lot of up and down strain on the box mounts.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 05:32 PM   #151
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Alright, I was looking at the track bar mount like you had originally told me at the axle, I may be able to raise it some without destorying everything granted I didn't plug weld anything. Will my steering be screwed up with the cross over being my drag link is a few inches longer than my trackbar?
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Old February 14th, 2013, 07:45 PM   #152
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Not bad (but not perfect) as long as the run on the same plane.
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Old February 16th, 2013, 08:28 PM   #153
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I've got it figured out how I can raise my track bar on the axle end and lower it on the frame end. I will have to rebuild both, and will be going with the same design, but I will be able to get the angles exact of the drag link. The track bar will also almost be directly behind the drag link.

I have two questions...

Does the track bar need to be 100% parallel with the axle and perpindicular to the frame? I caught it right now that I am 1/2" at quick glance, off from end to end, being that it needs to be changed anyhow moving it back square will give me more room against the cradle, but how critical is it that it is dead nuts square? I got thinking as well that you will only be able to keep it square at level ride height as well because as the suspension travels the axle moves slightly with the control arms.

I am 6" different c-c of joints from drag link to track bar. If my angles are almost dead nuts is that too much or is it liveable? track bar is 34" C-C and drag link is 40" c-c, I could make it dead nuts by making a y-link suspension, but then I will have to raise the track bar even higher on the frame end and at some point it will start limiting up travel on the passenger side.
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Old February 17th, 2013, 06:44 AM   #154
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If you have it running at the same angle as the drag link @ ride height, you will be fine.
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Old February 17th, 2013, 02:04 PM   #155
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Alright, sounds good, thank-you for the advice!
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Old February 20th, 2013, 11:45 AM   #156
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This went from boring old truck to all-tubed-out in a hurry!!! I like it, keep the pics coming.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 12:03 PM   #157
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nice work!
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Old February 24th, 2013, 07:31 PM   #158
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Tonight I finally carefully cut off both of the old track bar mounts. I fabbed up some new ones ans tacked them into position. I am going to support the frame side the same as before with the brace to the cradle except more bolts to attach it better.

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Old February 27th, 2013, 07:36 PM   #159
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Tonight I did just a few odds and ends. I started welding on the last tabs in the rear to mount stainless p clips to for brake line and what not...I don't like how zip ties look. I also started mounting my tranny cooler. I have brackets started that catch the sides as well. My radiator came today as well so tomorrow I'll get some steel to build some mounts for it.

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Old March 2nd, 2013, 08:32 PM   #160
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I painted the steering and the track bar mounts that I rebuilt. I installed those yesterday.

Steering is nice and high as seen from behind...


I built a mount that will go all the way around radiator and uses rubber isolators on the pads to keep it from getting damaged. A hinged piece will go on top with a row on the other end with threads at each end to adjust the tension on the radiator.







I also picked up a sye shaft and housing for $40 used off eBay.

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