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Old January 3rd, 2012, 12:55 PM   #61
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sometimes you open a thread expecting to see a ton of booty fab, and then instead you see something like this where you say, damn I wish I had the ability to take a shitty old f150 and fabricate up some cool shit for it.

Nice work.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 05:25 PM   #62
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sometimes you open a thread expecting to see a ton of booty fab, and then instead you see something like this where you say, damn I wish I had the ability to take a shitty old f150 and fabricate up some cool shit for it.

Nice work.
...thank-you...i didn't want it to be some nightmare you may find on some mudbog in some hickville...i know its not no high end buggy but I am happy with it so far....somewhere I have to find a pic of the day i drove it off when I was 16, its suprising how fast it will deteriorate when a young person doesn't take very nice care of it...lol

I was under the impression that Ron had the shims between the knuckle and the spindle to correct the camber on it so it didn't chew up the tires....iirc it doesn't really lead to deathwobble compared to caster and toe in/out...so as long as it doesn't eat my tires I'll be a happy camper.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 09:59 AM   #63
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yeah i looked at all my reciepts from my truck i paid 48.99 a piece for my balljoints.

ya know if you make it a trailer queen you wont ever have to worry about your tires, as you wont be putting enough miles on the thing to hurt them.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 12:24 PM   #64
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1/2ton and 3/4 ton chevy run the same caliper brackets, so youll be all set running those. chevy is a single piston caliper for the year of d44 axle your ripped those parts from. you should be able to run either ford of chevy 8 lug hubs on those chevy spindles, as i have done it. the axle shimming was mostly from putting longer+taller leafs in the jeep. my truck runs them front and back. theyre there to help with pinion angle and camber so itll ride nicer, and not to do with the difference between chevy hubs on ford d44 or vice versa. ill check my shelves i may have some spare parts for ya.
Wrong, 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Chevy/Jeep use the same CALIPERS but not the same mount, the 3/4 ton caliper mount has a shallower dish to it to allow for the different hub offset and rotor hat depth.

As for the shims behind the spindles...I have run across a few here and there on axles I have disassembled, mainly to correct for a slightly bent housing, but some knuckles do have a different ball-joint axis angle measured from the spindle mounting face. I usually correct for this when I reweld the housing end yokes, but the shims are an easy way to do it if you're not narrowing or rotating your axle.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 12:56 PM   #65
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Wrong, 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Chevy/Jeep use the same CALIPERS but not the same mount, the 3/4 ton caliper mount has a shallower dish to it to allow for the different hub offset and rotor hat depth.

As for the shims behind the spindles...I have run across a few here and there on axles I have disassembled, mainly to correct for a slightly bent housing, but some knuckles do have a different ball-joint axis angle measured from the spindle mounting face. I usually correct for this when I reweld the housing end yokes, but the shims are an easy way to do it if you're not narrowing or rotating your axle.
well i got 3/4ton brackets and calipers on my 1/2ton axle with absolutely no problems. and have put 1/2ton brake junk on 3/4 ton axles so long as theyre chevy to chevy ive never ran into issues. hell you can intermingle d44 and 10bolts i see alot of people doing that.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 08:04 PM   #66
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I finished all the 4 link stuff for the rear...minus the fact that I need to buy coils and shocks...coils I'll probably order in the next couple days..with taxes I'm gonna buy some nice bilstein shocks for it I am thinking.







Besides the coils I need to weld those upper tabs out...I mounted the lower link mounts with 3 1/2" gr8 bolts and then welded both ends to the frame...I figure that should be sufficient enough..I didn't even bother boxing the frame there because they tie into the cab crossmember and it braces the bottom of the frame to the top so it basically is doing the same. The rear axle is ready to go together and start the disc conversion on it.

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Old January 13th, 2012, 05:23 AM   #67
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keep up the good work!
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Old January 13th, 2012, 05:36 AM   #68
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Looks very good!
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Old January 13th, 2012, 09:02 AM   #69
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Very nice! Just a thought....with the way those upper mounts are positioned you're gonna be putting a huge load on the tube and bracket welds as it tries to twist itself off under load. No need to redo them or anything, but I'd plate the front of the tabs and run a piece of tube forward to brace it in the corner where the tube and frame meet. One of those things where 30 minutes of work now could save you a lot of headaches later on.
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Old January 15th, 2012, 08:34 PM   #70
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i like the idea of that brace...i'll probably throw that in there this week...not a whole lot got done this weekend because we went to rocks and valleys with a group...i did however get the truck sitting on its own weight without my custom wooden jackstand in the middle... Thanks to JPRJeremy for the deal on the 4" TJ Coils and it happened to work out perfect last week because we were working nearby eachother so I could get them at lunch. Here is a pic of her with the coils in...it is actually pretty stiff in the rear....i'm really glad i didn't go with xj coils now....I do have the coil retainers they were just painted and drying though....

Also on a side note..whats the best way to mount shocks? Completely upright (90 degrees to frame) or angled? probably the furthest out on the axle from center correct? I will be limited though because i dont want to put them outboard of the frame where they could be damaged...also does it matter if they are on the 12 oclock position of the axle tube or 3 or 9? Ive seen it almost everyway imaginable so i am probably overthinking it but just curious if one way is better than another....
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Old January 15th, 2012, 08:45 PM   #71
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the build looks great! glad you could use those coils. hit me up if you're looking for a couple extra rigs to wheel with sometime.
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Old January 15th, 2012, 09:15 PM   #72
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I wasn't thinking, I should of said something about R&V saturday...it was a blast with the fresh snow! There were 4 rigs in our group and a pretty decent sized group also showed up there with a bunch of cherokees...next time i'll give you a heads up when we are going again! The springs worked out perfect, the truck is sitting close to level, not too far off...by the time i put all the crap in the rear yet for tubing, tire, fuel cell, and what not it should be balanced out almost perfect
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Old January 18th, 2012, 05:03 PM   #73
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For someone who knows there 44's, I am using the ford housing, and chevy knuckles...what year and brand do I order the balljoints for? I believe my housing is a 76 not a 100 percent sure though, the 76 chevy uppper balljoints look completely different on the pic on rockauto.com they look like they have a flange on them....maybe the pic is wrong which it may be....so when i go to order parts what should I order them as....and between raybestos or moog which is the better? or any other brands..usually I stick with moog...any input though i'd appreciate...thanks!
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Old February 15th, 2012, 05:38 PM   #74
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Need an update here Bobbo... Your laid off now, so GET TO WORK!!!
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Old February 17th, 2012, 06:27 AM   #75
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Nice Rig!
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Old February 17th, 2012, 05:46 PM   #76
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nice work so far! lookin good
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Old February 17th, 2012, 06:01 PM   #77
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cool build...nice work
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Old February 17th, 2012, 06:41 PM   #78
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Nice work
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 08:54 PM   #79
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After seeing people post in here it made me get out there and work on it...lol Between having a new gf and having to put a new motor in the jeep I havent had much time to work on it. I'll get some pics up, the latest thing I have been working on is a new front frame section. I removed the double tube on the front because I have a feeling as soon as it lands on a rock or something its going to dent....fast... I am going to come off of the frame rails with rectangle tube and do a few mitered joints so its not just a 90 degree turn and tacky looking. I'll post some picks up of it hopefully it is done this weekend.
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Old March 1st, 2012, 04:15 PM   #80
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Is there a difference between ball joints on a ford 44 and a chevy 44? If so what should I order? the chevy since I'm using chevy knuckles? And if that is the case what years did chevy put the 44 in instead of the 10 bolt so if I order online from Rock I can make sure I order the right ones...thank you!
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