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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:04 PM   #21
jeepxj2007
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F150 SAS Truggy

I had a few reasons for putting mine on the passenger side... because it allowed more clearance, if I put it on top of the pumpkin it wouldn't allow as much suspension compression before the mount hit the engine cradle. Second was the trackbar mount and the upper link mount reinforce eachother both directions and allow a large mounting area without taking up too much space. And the last reason was that the differential section is cast, and you can't just weld to it with a mig gun. I didn't have access to a decent stick welder to weld it with nickel rod, and even then I have seen it crack when preheated and proper cooling techniques...I figured it was a heck of a lot easier to just weld to the tube and probably safer going down the road wondering if it has a small crack that is going to compromise the whole weld. Can it be done? Yeah but from what I seen you have less binding with the suspension with only one upper link compared to two of them and it was a lot easier to setup the way I did it for me.

Last edited by jeepxj2007; December 20th, 2011 at 09:42 PM.
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Old November 15th, 2011, 09:02 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepxj2007 View Post
I haven't done a whole lot to it lately.



I stripped the axle apart so I can put new brakes, discs, hub, bearings, balljoints, u joints, etc. I hate screwing around fixing stuff when I could of done it all once and not have to do it for a while so I will replace everything. I wire wheeled the axle and primered it and then used rustoleum semi gloss black on the housing. All of the link arms are going to be ford blue. Only thing left for the front suspension now is tabs for the shocks.

I made the trackbar mount so it is gusseted to the coil pads, and then a piece of d.o.m tube that mounts it to the engine cradle also to give it support.


I also made my shock hoops with me and a buddies new bender here is a pic how they turned out.




I ordered all my brackets for the rear 4 link and they should be here this week so I can set that up. I need to get springs for the rear, I am going to go with Cherokee front coils, I am unsure what i need for size though because I need a 18" tall spring when it is compressed, but there wont be a ton of weight on the back compared to what the 4.0 I6 weighs in a cherokee, although the wheelbase is short so the weight will be distrubeted a little more to the rear springs. I just dont want the rear looking higher than the front, I hate that look.
Nice Build! Let me know how those xj coils work for you out back. Because when i link my ranger in the back i want to use some xj coils i have.
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Old November 15th, 2011, 10:46 AM   #23
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Im really curious how they are going to be...I dont think they are going to have nearly as much weight as what the 4.0 engine puts down on top of them. I will have some d.o.m. tube back there for the cage and the fuel cell, but I think there will probably be more on them than I am guessing because the shorter wheelbase in theory should put a little more of the drivetrain weight to the rear than I am thinking. If anyone has a measurement of a stock compressed xj coil if you could give me the measurement I would really appreciate that.
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Old December 14th, 2011, 09:28 PM   #24
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I talked myself into tubing the rear of the frame. I chopped it again at the cab and made a crossemember so the tube portion goes through the crossmember and is going to be welded front and back...then bolted into the frame and finally welded into the frame once it is done...then I am going to start building the tube cage...the tube section of the frame still needs the rear part completed i am going to run tube angled in the rear to join the two tube frames together similar to the front but instead of being straight up and down....I figured tubing this out would clean it up a lot...make the truck look a lot nicer than a hacked frame, and now the frame being straight I can use shorter coils possibly from a tj.



Last edited by jeepxj2007; April 13th, 2012 at 09:35 AM.
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Old December 20th, 2011, 05:56 PM   #25
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Awesome fab work there!
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Old December 20th, 2011, 09:40 PM   #26
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I started on the 4 link tonight...I hope to have it all set up by the end of this weekend and have the main hoop that contours the back of the cab bent this weekend to built the exo cage off of and tie into the rear of the frame. She is slowly coming together now...soon i need to order the rear disc brackets and rear coils...i think I am going to use tj coils now...I need a 13" tall spring once it is compressed...anyone know of there head what that amounts to in a tj rear coil? Somewhere I read it would be about a 4.5" lift coil or right around there...but I have only been able to find that in one spot and would like to verify that.
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Old December 22nd, 2011, 08:27 AM   #27
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looking good! sooner or later ill have to stop in and lend you a hand. its the least i can do after all you have/will probably help me with!
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Old December 22nd, 2011, 10:58 AM   #28
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i love where ur going with the frame. cant wait to see the final product
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Old December 22nd, 2011, 04:19 PM   #29
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Im going to be running the passenger side radius arm on my d44 under my xj. i havnt really seen it dont before, but i think it will work just as good as a driver side radius arm. Nice build i use to have the same truck i really wish i would have kept it now. I cant wait to see this when its finished.
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Old December 25th, 2011, 01:28 PM   #30
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Good work! Subscribed.

Great meeting you on Friday!
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Old December 25th, 2011, 03:57 PM   #31
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Thanks scooter! It was nice meeting you too!
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Old December 25th, 2011, 06:45 PM   #32
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very nice work!
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Old December 25th, 2011, 07:45 PM   #33
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I wasn't to sure about this when I first opened it being a 92 f150 but, seeing how much it has changed I am very impressed. Great work!
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Old December 26th, 2011, 08:26 PM   #34
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I got a little work on it this weekend...it felt like i worked on it alot but didn't get a whole lot accomplished...i guess it is turning out nice though...i'd rather have it look nice and take time then rush and look like something you may find in some mudbug cobbled together....

I was going to do a full exocage...but i made a hoop that contoured the rear of the cab...it looked like hell to me, so I used what i could out of it in other places....i made a new hoop that fit inside the cab nicely....it is going to be tied into the frame everywhere it contacts the floor too after i build the full rollcage inside the cab...i gutted the old dash out also, I am going to make my own out of sheetmetal that attaches to the cage and the an aluminum gauge center with some aftermarket gauges in it.


I then came out of the cab with it and made a rolling offset piece to hit the back of my tube frame...i still need to put the rear braces in the frame at the back of the frame yet...and there is going to be a lot more structure involved in this and triangulation...i just rean out of tube so this is where I left off at. I see a lot of truggies carry the main support piece to the top of the cage...the only reason I didn't was because I wanted to be able to put a window back in it....and then i am also going to make a a support that goes from where your shoulder would be on the main hoop to the floor by your feet where it ties in so it is all triangulated nicely.



I found I need to perform some surgery on my drivers side floor....i found a new floorpan pretty cheap and a set of cab corners real cheap so I am going to do the drivers side floor and the cab corners to eliminate the rust...I am going to also put in rectangular tube steel for rockers in it and tie the cage and frame into them.



I finally tore the hubs off too to rip off the backing plates and brakes so i can set up the weld on disc conversion brackets for the sterling axle also.

Last edited by jeepxj2007; April 13th, 2012 at 09:36 AM.
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Old December 26th, 2011, 08:44 PM   #35
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looks good man
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Old December 26th, 2011, 08:48 PM   #36
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hell yeah..cant wait to get started on mine.
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Old December 26th, 2011, 09:02 PM   #37
89xjr
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nice build, good fab work aswell
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Old December 26th, 2011, 09:21 PM   #38
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Looks great!
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Old December 26th, 2011, 10:47 PM   #39
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Nice looking fab work so far!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepxj2007 View Post
I had a few reasons for putting mine on the passenger side... because it allowed more clearance, if I put it on top of the pumpkin it wouldn't allow as much suspension compression before the mount hit the engine cradle. Second was the trackbar mount and the upper link mount reinforce eachother both directions and allow a large mounting area without taking up too much space. And the last reason was that the differential section is cast, and you can't just weld to it with a mig gun. I didn't have access to a decent stick welder to weld it with nickel rod, and even then I have seen it crack when preheated and proper cooling techniques...I figured it was a heck of a lot easier to just weld to the tube and probably safer going down the road wondering if it has a small crack that is going to compromise the whole weld. Can it be done? Yeah but from what I seen you have less binding with the suspension with only one upper link compared to two of them and it was a lot easier to setup the way I did it for me.
Nothing wrong with that, but keep in mind that it'll place a lot more torsional stress on the housing and tubes. You'll just be relying on the press fit and plug welds in the pig to keep it from rotating since the tube will be held in place instead of the pig. I'd highly recommend welding the casting to the tubes and/or installing a nice truss to tie everything together.

Quote:
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How come you ran the links so straight with no triangulation? I can't imagine you're running a parallel 4 link with panhard in the rear, so you'd be better off moving the lowers further out on the axle.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 05:28 AM   #40
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ive seen it done personally on a few rigs and noticed nothing wrong with the way they handle..i guess i haven't been in one to compare that was triagulated top and bottom
.....i agree that it would probably be better moved out...but i don't see a rule that it has to be triangulated on the lowers...the uppers is where it will be triangulated on this...i probably can move it out and will, but even when i was under my cousins mustang they weret triangulated on the bottom...but straight...when i was playing with the 4 link calculator it wasn't making huge gains on anything moving them out a significant distance...i'll look at it again and take it into consideration, i haven't played with it for a while, but i remember i played with the numbers and it didn't seem to really change too much of the oversteer or underster..i cant remember...i mean dont get me wrong i agree but i dont recall it making a night and day difference in any of the numbers moving it out
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