|December 4th, 2011, 12:53 PM||#1|
My first Buggy build.
I am a OTR truck driver working on a local contract in Fultonville, NY for who knows how long. I am saving up to buy a house outright while getting all the parts and tools around to build this rig once I am in that house.
I plan doing this in stages.
Work on design
Build Drive train
Run Drive train
Build frame/body(mock HDPE while building using cardboard)
Mock Drive train
Test drive checking for issues
Form HDPE/UHDPE pieces
Install HDPE/UHDPE pieces
Finalize fit(making/installing any things that are needed)
Remove Power train,steering,electrical,recovery,cooling,safety, fuel, HDPE/UHDPE pieces, axles.
Soda blast primer off
Wipe down frame/body with cleaning agent
Install Drive train
Install HDPE Pieces
I will jump around as needed to get this built.
This is The shopping list that I have been chipping away at over the last year. It will be updated as I progress.
Have Pro Bender Pro 32 Bender
Have 240° 1.75" Die
Have Baileigh TN-250 Notcher
Have Miller 211 Welder
Need Oxygen,Argon Gas/tanks
Need Argon recirculating pump for back shielding
Have Welding/grinding Hood
Have 50' welder extension cord
Have Craftsman Grinder
Have Craftsman Saw Saw
Have Milwaukee porta-saw
Have Swag Porta-saw Vertical Table
Have SodaBlast Systems Soda Blaster/Hose
Need Industrial Air compressor
Need Plasma cutter
Have Central Hydraulics 2 ton Hoist
Have 3 ton floor jack
Need 4 3 ton jack stands for engine mockup(before cage is built)
Need 4 3 ton jack stands for cage mockup(before suspension is installed)
Need Primer(To prevent rust while building)
Have angel tool
Need 6'x6'x1' Hot Box for Molding HDPE
Need 6'x6' Vacuum form table/flipping arm
Have Dedicated Laptop
Need Autodesk Inventor
Need Break line bender
Need Extra blades, wire etc as used
Have Low mileage Chevy 2 bolt 350 Long block
Need Engine mounts
Need Transmission mounts
Need Transfer case mounts
Need Block huger 90° down headers
Need Cross over pipe(in front of engine)
Need Heat shields
Need Exhaust coating
Need Exhaust pipe
Need Tensioner pulley(GM stock style medal)
Need Tensioner pulley bracket
Need Serpentine belt
Need 3/8 Power steering pump/alternator mounting brackets(over intake no adjustment)
Need Idler pulley
Need Idler pulley bracket
Need 3/8" UHDPE oil pan cover/skid plate(formed)
Have Cast SM-465 Bell housing
Need 3/8" UHDPE lower Bell housing cover(formed)
Have SM-465 6.55 ratio with dana18 adapter Rebuilt by Herm the overdrive Guy
Have Rebuilt 3.15 Tera-Low D-18 t/f case, twin stick, with OD Built by Herm
Need Center force dual clutch
Need Drive shafts
Need ARP bolts
Need Aluminum Rocker covers
Have 89 Toyota FJ 62 axles with 4.11(will freshen)
Need Long fields
Need 16"x8.5" rims
Need 35" tires
Need Kugel Komponents Under dash 90° Power With 1" Bore Aluminum M/C, Clutch M/C & 8" Dual Booster
Need steering shaft from Chevy truck non airbag(with turn,haz,light switches)
Need Steering shaft to gear box linkage
Need Steering wheel
Need Through firewall Vacuum line
Need Rear disk Upgrade
Need Clutch Slave
Need Portioning valve
Need Redneck Ram stage 3 (everything) steering assist
Need Ruff stuff 1.25 Heims
Need 2" rods for linkage
Need Hi-steer Toyota brackets
Need Got Propane kit for 3 10 gallon tanks/lines
Need 3 10 gallon tanks
Need Wet line kit for 500 gallon propane tank(road taxed propane only)
Need Low rpm high flow water pump short shaft
Need 2 12"x36" radiators
Need Radiator mounts(rubber)
Need 6 12" fans
Need 16' 1.5 id hydraulic hose
Need Oil cooler with 2 speed fan(heater)
Need Heater hose
Need 160 amp alternator(stock style)
Need Starter(stock style)
Need 2 red top optima Batteries
Need Oil Gauge
Need Engine temp Gauge
Need Battery 1 voltage Gauge(for driving)
Need Battery 2 voltage Gauge(for winch/radio)
Need Air pressure Gauge (for seats)
Need 12volt air Pump (for seats)
Need Propane Heat box (air temp) Gauge
Need 3 in line under dash propane gauge/shutoff valves
Need GPS speedometer
Need Headlights(30's style)
Need Rock lights Switch
Need Back up lights Switch
Need Power lock door Switch
Need Power windows Switch
Need Heater hi/lo/off Switch
Need Propane on/off switch
Need Parking break Buzzer
Need Retractable fenders Switch
Need Front winch controls(in dash)
Need Rear winch controls(in dash)
Need Front winch controls(remote)
Need Read winch controls(remote)
Need Divert-er valve switch(for sending fluid to front or rear winch)
Need 12volt motor Switch(for powering pump/winches)
Need 4 power on/off for extra accessories Switch
Need Trail lights switch
Need Marker lights
Need Rock lights
Need Trail lights
Need Painless wiring 16 kit
Need Painless 8 kit(high amp for accessories)
Need Painless wiring courtesy kit
Need Painless remote main shutoff kit
Need Power window kit
Need Power fender kit
Need Power lock kit/w poppers
Need Under dash Bass tube
Need 6 speaker competent system
Need Wiper motor/linkage
Need 1.75" x250 tube
Need Hood shocks
Need 180° Spare shocks
Need 3 10 gallon Propane tank mounting hardware
Need Flat glass windshield/windows
Need 3/8" thick flat Lexan rear window(rear firewall/derbies protection)
Need HDPE roof(removable)(formed)
Need HDPE outer door panels(removable)(formed)
Need HDPE Outer cage cover sections (removable)(formed)
Need HDPE Wheel Housings(retractable/removable)(formed)
Need HDPE Hood(formed)
Need HDPE Floor(formed with drains)
Need HDPE Center section(removable) (formed)
Need HDPE Vertical Hood sides(removable)
Need HDPE Inner body Air Dam/front area behind wheel(formed)
Need HDPE Heat box(vented box to keep propane tanks warm)
Need HDPE tire cover
Need Drivers Dash(formed lexan)
Need HDPE Passenger dash
Need UHDPE 3/4" transmission/Transfer case skid plate(formed)
Need UHDPE 3/8" drive shaft skid plate
Need UHDPE 1/8" Front and rear Axle skid plate(formed 2 piece)
Need HDPE air tank(for seats)
Need Ruff Stuff 1.25" 4 link kit F/R
Need 8 6' 1.75" Thick rod
Need Fox coil overs
Need Ebiach Springs
Need 2 2"thick rod with Ruff stuff heims for pan hand bars
Need Drop stop straps
Need Sway bars(removable)
Need 12v 1500rpm electric motor
Need Hi output Power steering pump
Need MM H9000 winch front/rear
Need Extended tubing
Need Extended wiring(controls)
Need Diverter valve(with electrical solenoid)
Need 90° bends
Need Tree saver
Need Fire suppression system
Need 5 point harness(mounted to seat)
Need Side windows defrost
Need Auto darkening rear view mirror
Need Power mirrors with defrost
Need Air ride seats
Need DOT air ride seat restraint straps
Need Oil accumulator
Need Propane high discharge shutoff
Need Engine master kill(with electric horn alert after engaged)
Need Air Horn
Need Parking Break
|December 7th, 2011, 10:24 AM||#4|
Naw, I'm done messing around with the crazy ideas on this. Sorry about all the stupid questions along the way and thanks for all the insight BTW.
Just getting the stuff around at this point, tossing it in a pile, so I can build this when it makes sense to. Instead of building it little by little and ending up with a rusted rig before I drive it.
The above "shopping list" is more about keeping me focused and not straying with wild ideas that change the design.
|December 24th, 2011, 07:36 PM||#5|
|December 24th, 2011, 08:00 PM||#6|
Engine when it showed up.
Got some engine stands.
Lifted the engine.
Ceramic Headers(that can not be installed with the engine on stands). They are all shiny and junk.
Here is my pretty bell housing that has been magnafluxed painted and junk.
So, I put the flywheel on and went to install the bell housing on engine. The pilot pins are to wide and I have a gap.
OK fine I will have to replace those. So, I went to put the bell housing on the 465 and ..
Another freaking gap oh wait no way. I asked the guy like 5 times if it was the right size. Guess what? Frigging 420. I actually found another "465" cast bell housing on ebay tonight and sent him the measurements the differences for 465/420 pilot diameter and sure enough he had a 420 not a 465.
|December 24th, 2011, 08:49 PM||#7|
The reason I have been fighting so hard to get the cast bell housing is that I have a Dana 18 with a overdrive bolted behind the 465. It has a ps drop front and rear. The cast bell housing has the clutch slave on the drivers side.
The Aluminum Bell housing has the clutch slave on the passenger side making it very close to where I plan on having my front drive shaft. It would also be the lowest part of the power train. The Dana 18 has been clocked moving the drive shaft output higher letting the oil pan be the lowest part of the power train. The pinion will be sitting at 14-16" off the ground and the transfer case output will be sitting at roughly 18". The oil pan will be sitting at 15". This is done to ensure the 33" (estimated) rear shaft does not vibrate. The front shaft will be right next to the transmission so I will NEED the room making a aluminum bell housing virtually impossible.
|January 26th, 2012, 04:45 PM||#9|
It is a steering based knuckle that I made in Inventor thanks to robcohee on youtube. It so much easier to learn this way then the step by step written explanation that I have tried over the last 4 weeks in my case.
I am slowly learning this program for the main use of the Stress Analysis feature. The feature lets you place a load on part(s) of a object. By eventually using this I can edit the frame design over and over lessening the weight in some areas while strengthening it. While it sounds like a lot of work it will ensure that my frame is as strong and light as it can possibly be before cutting the first piece of DOM. The concern of a on road side impact with the current narrow cab design and strengthening the frame design in general is the reason why I am learning this program.
|January 28th, 2012, 03:04 PM||#11|
I just spent the last 3 hours playing around learning the basics of building a basic frame. I lightly touched base on the basics to building then I simulated placing it against a wall and hitting it on the sides (where the arrows are)with 200 lbs of force on the bottom and 300 force at the top. The orgional shape is highlighted in blue and not highlighted on the bottom pict
|January 28th, 2012, 06:23 PM||#13|
The 420 bell housing had been magnafluxed and painted before it was shipped to me. My dumb butt just did not ask what the ID was. Lesson learned, I had 3 other people try to sell me there cast 465 bell housings that turned out to be for a 420 after buying that one. I just went with the aluminum one after making sure it was the correct ID and would not cause clearance issues. I don't plan on being back in Michigan till Thanksgiving. I will sell the bell housing, the YJ top, and some other stuff that I have sitting around then. I will be looking for a industrial air compressor the 3-5 days I am around at the same time. Would be nice to actually use the industrial soda blaster that I got last Thanksgiving and burn all the makeup off the cj to find out if the body is worth messing with.
Part of the Form HDPE/UHDPE Pieces stage is taking the 350 oil pan and vacuum forming a 3/4 UHDPE cover over it to use as a motor skid plate. The reason I wanted a cast cover so was that I could bolt a 3/4" UHDPE skid plate to the underside using studs. After looking things over I can just as easily use the aluminum bell housing vacuum forming a one piece 3/4" thick UHDPE to the underside of the bell housing, SM465, and transfer case to work just as well if not better then the 2 piece design that I had planned.
|June 8th, 2012, 08:33 PM||#14|
Finally got some home time and got to kick this thing off. Had 3 days to play around. I spent the first one finding everything, assembling things like the bender, welder, saw, and such. Went out and got the DOM from alro steel and played around with the welder in the rain before calling it. It rained all 3 days I was able to use my fathers garage the next 2 days.
The next morning I played around with the bender making tons of bends with small pipe before I was confident with it.
The 2 most important bends along the windshield came out perfect.
The notcher set up in the vice.
I made a half azz jig to keep the tube pointing upright while I cut the other side.
About 10 hours of actual work.
My first fuk up. Also my first double notch. I plan on wasting some time notching tons of angles before I continue when I get back to this again. I should have wasted time notching double angles before but was flying without concern using the notcher up to this point.
I had to get some family time meeting the relatives and such that I have not seen in 6 months. This was after 14 hours of actual work before I began cleaning up.
And that is as far as I got on this. I will get back to it in a few more months. I primed the welds and coated the rest in oil but still expect it to rust before I finish this. I have a industrial soda blaster to get rid of the rust once this is fully assembled. Hopefully I can get to that point this Thanksgiving.
|August 26th, 2012, 06:52 PM||#15|
Set this thing up this afternoon and got back at it. Started staging things like chair placement and tank location to make sure everything is placed where I want it before continuing.
Then I began masking bracing locations.
Lot going on here. I have a main upright to keep the window from collapsing. Then the dash is cross braced. With a lot more bracing then I need. The top of the cylinder blocks will be the floor height.
My dash is freaking huge because I have no firewall. There is nothing in front of my windshield with a gap of a few inches between the propane tanks and the windshield. This should let any snow, mud, whatever slide off insted of creating a huge drift. The large dash is also designed as a major brace in the event of a side impact.
The seat really will not recline and is represented by the tape on a angle off the seat.
The tape roll (hard to see) represents a padded area behind the drivers head.
|August 28th, 2012, 02:41 PM||#18|
With the the 465, 3 speed brownie, and .75 reverse case. I have a 60/1 ish low and a .54 high gear. I will be able to get up to 70 in 2 shifts then drop down into 4th and cruise 70 at 1500 rpm.
It is a very strong, cheap to run, and cheap to fix drive train. The suspension on the other hand.. Lets just say I don't like the idea of rebuilding coil overs every few years and have found what I believe is a better while giving the same results.
This is not a crawler.
OK enough screwing around.
I was messing around with it and could not seem to figure out why my uprights were not lining up right. Turns out 1 of my cross braces was 1/2 off. So I ripped everything back down. Here is a pict last night with the bottom ripped off. I ran out of gas so welding was done for the night.
Had some daylight left so I tosed my wheels on the rear axle and started bashing and cutting off the springs and tabs.
Turns out I can actually use the spring mounts for my heim mount. This should let me weld to the axle less. As well as encasing the heim mount in it's own little carrier.
After getting some gas I ground everything down and made sure everything was freaking perfect. All the tubes fit tight and flawlessly now.
I am double welding a lot of my joints just to make sure everything stays together when I roll this thing.
Ok enough screwing around time to get back at it.
|August 29th, 2012, 10:17 PM||#19|
Notched a cross brace from above the drivers head to the passengers windshield. Took me over a hour to get everything tight and perfect. Had a tricky situation here with the notcher. I will need to look at notching techniques to speed this up.
Fed up with how long it took me to make the angular cross brace I stuck to basic cross and upright bracing. Here is what I ended up with after 6 hours right before I put everything away for the next few months. It has no triangulation at this point except the one angular cross brace on the roof which I did not think to take a picture of course.
|4x4, buggy, cerial|
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