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Old July 4th, 2011, 07:02 PM   #1
jeepxj2007
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Default F150 SAS Truggy

This is a 92 F150 that was my first vehicle. My dad has owned it for the majority of its life and gave it to me when I turned 16. I drove it around for a while then parked it and used it as my backup vehicle when my first jeeps would always break down on me. This F150 started out as a 2x4 long box, and was reliable as heck! The only major thing ever to go bad on it was the ECM and I replaced that and along with balljoints and tierod ends and a water pump the truck has 260,000 miles on it. My parents got to the point where they were tired of it sitting in the woods and told me I could go ahead and scrap it if I wanted to, but I felt to guilty doing it since it runs great still and it was my first vehicle.

So far this is the plan:
Keep the I-6 until it is all finished.
Dana 44 front, possibly a 60, but since I want to keep this cheap probably a 44. Not sure what to do for the rear axle, probably a 10.25 due to the speedsensor being on the dif and Im sure I can make it work with a 10.25 axle.
4 link rear
Radius arm front
Rear section of truck "truggied style cage tieing into a cage in the cab.
Find a 4x4 auto trans or manual trans and tcase out of a similar f150 and swap that in.

Here is a pic of it to get a good idea how much the wheelbase has changed, here is a pic with the only thing done to it is the box removed.


After the cut


New wheelbase


First we removed the doors. I think I'm going to leave it like this, I saved the mirrors and will figure out some way to mount them in case I ever drive it on the road.


A buddy who has helped me with it all so far built a dimple die for a 1" hole and did two sets of them on the hood, and on each front fender.


We cut the frame and I did a open butt joint to reattach the frame. I then welded it , ground the outside smooth, and made a fishplate for each side. The fishplate is a total of 18" long, it attaches the rear section of the frame with 3 grade 8 1/2" bolts and the front with 4 (I don't think I have them all drilled in this pic or installed), then there are 3 plug welds on each half of the fishplate, then the outside of the fishplate was welded to the frame. There is a brace that bolts to the inside front half of the reattached frame that runs to the first crossmember I built that will be the structure for the upper link arms for the rear axle. The braces are built out of 1.5x.120 dom tubing.




For the rear crossmember I went a little overkill on it, I should of went with 3/16"s wall but went with 1/4" and used 2x6x1/4" tube and welded that inside the frame channels, and took a piece of angle iron on both edges to better tie it into the frame. I then welded 3/4" dring tabs to it. We then braced that and the rear section of frame where the coil buckets will be with this tubing portion. It is made out of 1.5x.120 dom and will be used to mount the shocks also. Where it mounts to the frame for the coil buckets there is a fishplate there to strengthen up the frame a little bit and give a better area for it to mount to the tubing.





Next I need to remove the trans, and rear axle and leaf spring mounts, only reason they are still there is to keep it moveable to take to my buddies house to use his 220v welder becasue I only use my 110 miller for tacking because I don't feel that it gets warm enough to get suffiecient penetration for the critical stuff on here.

Last edited by jeepxj2007; April 13th, 2012 at 09:32 AM.
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Old July 4th, 2011, 07:29 PM   #2
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sweet build I wanna do one of these sooner or later
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Old August 11th, 2011, 09:20 PM   #3
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Been screwing around with it a little bit lately. I picked up a 91 F250 4x4 as a parts truck and it had a 351 that had a newer jasper short block in it, and a auto trans with a manual shift tcase, plus the sterling 10.25 rear. I pulled all of that plus the wiring harness and computer. Then the truck was scrapped. It wasn't fired up for a few years, i put a battery in it and a starter solenoid and it fired right up and ran great, everything worked on it, i then drove it into the garage and tore it apart.

Here is a pic of the drivetrain that is going to be swapped into this truck.


Here is a pic of the 10.25 stripped down ready to have the 4 link setup and coil pads placed on her, I think I am going to weld the spiders in it, and weld the tubes to the center section, further down the build I would like to add disc brakes to it.



When I was removing the front clip to get rid of all the inline 6 stuff, i noticed the frame looked cracked up by the steering box, i looked closer and it wasn't, but it was rotted...so i started poking around and it stops just in front of the steering box, and there isn't another crossmember between the front of the truck and the engine cradle so i am going to cut back just in front of the box and build a front crossmember/bumper and tie it all in stronger than it was stock...I figured out how it rotted once i started cutting it up, it looked like many years ago a mouse packed insulation as tight as he could inside and it held water and dirt and what not in there and rotted, but luckily it couldn't get any further up near the steering box. Overall it shortened the truck up a lot in the front and I am going to run tube from the front and tie it into the cage, the only thing from the front clip that is going to stay is the hood trimmed down after i build the tube fenders and what not for it.

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Old August 12th, 2011, 08:51 AM   #4
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That 2wd engine crossmember is really going to be in the way of a front axle/driveshaft. You might want to just cut it at the firewall.....
Cool project, keep at it.
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Old August 12th, 2011, 11:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
That 2wd engine crossmember is really going to be in the way of a front axle/driveshaft. You might want to just cut it at the firewall.....
Cool project, keep at it.
I was thinking the same thing...couldn't you have used the frame (or at least the front 1/2) from the F-250 parts rig?

Cool project.
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Old August 12th, 2011, 03:04 PM   #6
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I'm not sure...the cradle looked identical to the one one the f250, the frame section looked identical too besides the fact it didn't have the crush zone because it had leaf springs. I did some research initially on the solid axle swaps on these and the people who run the dana 44 with the radius arms on the older f150s and what not have to use at least 4" lift coils to keep enough room so that the bracketry on the axle doesn't contact the engine cradle. There should be plenty of room on it for the driveshaft because it's center line is the same center the axle will be on and with the pinion and what not it is going to be just at the back of it.
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Old August 13th, 2011, 04:57 PM   #7
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I went and looked closer at what you guys were talking about and i do see what you are saying about how low it is. I think what I am going to do to be safe about it to make sure there is enough room is to trim that cradle up a lot, I already cut out all the beam suspension components and brackets. I am going to trim the bottom off of the cradle so it is only 2" thick on the bottom part under the oil pan. Then I am going to take 2"x3"x3/16" rectangle tube and make almost a "piece that looks like this from above looking straight down "I-------I" and weld it in and make some gussets to catch the rest of the cradle near the frame rails. I want to do this as cheap as possible but not too hillbillyish or I probably would of just started with building a frame for this, but I am not good at keeping interest and projects and I knew I would never get this done.
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 07:45 PM   #8
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I built the coil pads for the frame side in the rear and tacked them up in place. Below are pics of that.


Then I trimmed up the engine cradle to allow for more room for the axle, I trimmed almost 3" off the bottom, it is now 2" thick in the middle. I am going to built a bolt in brace that adds more strength to it after removing all that metal, It should be stronger than ever in stock form after the brace. Here are pics of it trimmed up.



I repaired the crappy spot in the frame in front of the steering box, I cut it out with a 2" hole-saw, then cut a new piece with the same hole-saw, welded it in, ground it smooth, then added this 1/4"thick steering brace plus capped the ends of the frame so I can come off of them with tubing. It is all only tacked right now.

Last edited by jeepxj2007; April 13th, 2012 at 09:33 AM.
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Old September 16th, 2011, 04:51 PM   #9
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here are some more updates to the build:
I recently put the drivetrain in place so I can build my trans crossmembember and make sure the cradle was going to accept the 351.

I trimmed a bunch on the cradle so I built this brace that goes in to strengthen it back up to make sure it wasnt going to fold in half from the weight of the motor/truck/suspension moving.



I built this front to the frame out of 1.75 and 1.5 d.o.m. and am going to come off that for my grille and stinger. I think I am going to use a ranger grille, I wanted to do a superduty grille but i think it is going to be way to wide.


I ordered a bunch of brackets from ballistic so I could mount my new axle under it, I pickd up a F250 Dana 44 with 4.10's in it.

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Old September 16th, 2011, 04:55 PM   #10
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Nice work!
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Old September 19th, 2011, 10:45 PM   #11
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I built the crossmember for the transmission and test fit it before painting. I built it out of 1.5" d.o.m. and 2.5x2.5x.25 angle iron. I probably could of came up with something better for higher ground clearance, but I didn't want to run into issues with the front driveshaft hitting it, and it definately isn't the lowest point on the truck. I painted it tonight also.



Here are pics of my axle, I worked on cleaning up all the old brackets, steering arm, and tierod. Now I am just waiting on the brackets from Ballistic Fab. After I have it ready to bolt in I am going to go through and throw in new brake pads, rotors, calipers, ball joints, wheel bearings and u joints just so I don't have to go back and do them again soon, well hopefully...

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Old October 16th, 2011, 08:02 PM   #12
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I started putting the front axle underneath the truck. I found out I still didn't have very much clearance even after trimming on the crossmember. I built my own coil buckets that sit low on the frame and gave it about 10" of lift over the stock ones, and are much beefier. Here are some pics of it sitting on the coils as I fab up the control arms and track bar stuff.



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Old November 1st, 2011, 09:25 PM   #13
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I have everything for the front suspension all set up besides the shock hoops and shock mounts. Here is a pic of it from the front.




I had to cut apart the engine cradle brace that I built to make clearance for the trackbar. it will bascially be two 3/8" thick plates that bolt front and back like before without the tube and plate running in the middle of it. I decided to run a single y-link style for the front. I used a 1.25" Cr Mo Heim for the upper joint to be able to adjust the caster some amount if needed.
For the trackbar I used 1.5x.25 dom with 3/4x5/8 Cr Mo Heims. I am going to brace the mount with 1.5" dom off of the cradle so it takes stress off the framerail from it and it is going to get a gusset added running parallel with the frame rail.

I was a little cheap and couldn't justify spending 200 dollars on a tubing notcher as simple as they are and I wasn't going to spend 50 on the cheap harbor freight one after using a buddies and seeing how limited it was as to cut angles. So I built my own. I probably should of used a bearing on the shaft so it wouldn't ever wear out. But for 11 dollars in material it isn't too bad. It cuts almost any angle degree you want, it locks up the tube super tight, and there is absolutely 0 play in the shaft like some of the cheaper ones.


Now to the rear to the 4 link and after that I will be building the cage/exocage!

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Old November 2nd, 2011, 09:04 PM   #14
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Looks good, nice work so far.
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Old November 3rd, 2011, 07:11 AM   #15
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Great fab work!
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Old November 13th, 2011, 08:17 PM   #16
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I haven't done a whole lot to it lately.



I stripped the axle apart so I can put new brakes, discs, hub, bearings, balljoints, u joints, etc. I hate screwing around fixing stuff when I could of done it all once and not have to do it for a while so I will replace everything. I wire wheeled the axle and primered it and then used rustoleum semi gloss black on the housing. All of the link arms are going to be ford blue. Only thing left for the front suspension now is tabs for the shocks.

I made the trackbar mount so it is gusseted to the coil pads, and then a piece of d.o.m tube that mounts it to the engine cradle also to give it support.


I also made my shock hoops with me and a buddies new bender here is a pic how they turned out.




I ordered all my brackets for the rear 4 link and they should be here this week so I can set that up. I need to get springs for the rear, I am going to go with Cherokee front coils, I am unsure what i need for size though because I need a 18" tall spring when it is compressed, but there wont be a ton of weight on the back compared to what the 4.0 I6 weighs in a cherokee, although the wheelbase is short so the weight will be distrubeted a little more to the rear springs. I just dont want the rear looking higher than the front, I hate that look.

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Old November 13th, 2011, 08:47 PM   #17
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are you going to make a radius arm for the drivers side?
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Old November 13th, 2011, 08:52 PM   #18
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Nope, I was a bit skeptical when I seen it done on a buddies rig his has held up fine, and I read up on it and it will allow a little more flex than having it on both sides. Doing a little research on it I found quite a few people running this y-link style setup.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 11:10 AM   #19
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I know this maybe a stupid question but don't most normaly y-link suspensions put the upper arm on the same side as the pumpkin? Atleast that is what i have seen but could be wrong.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 07:55 PM   #20
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Dosent really matter some say it does some say it dosent. My personal experiance is it dosent matter there is the same amount of torque on one side as the other with the way i think of it.
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