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Old May 1st, 2011, 12:45 PM   #1
MiNi Beast
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Default 7/8" tap

looking to borrow, rent or someone to tap my 1.25 dom for my chevy 1 ton tie rod ends.
thanks
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Old May 1st, 2011, 02:51 PM   #2
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R/H or L/H ?

What thread , 9 or 14

(7/8-9 RH is a common tap)
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Old May 1st, 2011, 08:36 PM   #3
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need left and right and wanna say it is 7/8 x 10 the rare tap of the 7/8ths i guess.
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Old May 1st, 2011, 08:41 PM   #4
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That would be a 7/8-18.
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Old May 1st, 2011, 08:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop-Tart View Post
That would be a 7/8-18.
This ^
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Old May 1st, 2011, 09:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
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That would be a 7/8-18.
thank you as I wasn't sure what it was.
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Old May 1st, 2011, 09:25 PM   #7
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well, I have not heard of that pitch, I must have missed something.

7/8-9 is unc
7/8 -14 is unf
7/8 20 is unef

Last edited by itselliott; May 1st, 2011 at 09:29 PM.
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Old May 1st, 2011, 10:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itselliott View Post
well, I have not heard of that pitch, I must have missed something.

7/8-9 is unc
7/8 -14 is unf
7/8 20 is unef
apparently it was to allow for more adjustments. Which is why it's a pain to find jam nuts.
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 12:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itselliott View Post
well, I have not heard of that pitch, I must have missed something.

7/8-9 is unc
7/8 -14 is unf
7/8 20 is unef
It's a bastard thread from the bastards themselves (GM) It is used in tie rod ends for finer adjustment. They couldn't just go with 7/8-20 because that would be cheaper and make sense. 2 things that company dislikes very much.
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 12:11 AM   #10
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can't you get weld in bungs and jam nuts for tre's?
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 05:35 AM   #11
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can't you get weld in bungs and jam nuts for tre's?
no that would make it illegal to drive on the road. thanks
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 06:24 AM   #12
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What is the wall thickness on your dom? If it is .250 you are going to have to have it bored out.
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 01:51 PM   #13
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What is the wall thickness on your dom? If it is .250 you are going to have to have it bored out.
.25 I believe, know for sure tonight as be measuring and cutting it to length and will be having it taped tomorrow.
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 02:08 PM   #14
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Its the same as mine roger, you have to bore it
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 06:23 PM   #15
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Its the same as mine roger, you have to bore it
Well I hope Sandvipr knows that then, better call him.
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 06:25 PM   #16
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http://extremecustomparts.com/i-3615...r-weld-in.html

Found this.........

there obviously are others that share your dilema

and this:
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/7-8-18...Tube/3207/3392
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Old May 5th, 2011, 10:23 AM   #17
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Well Sandvipr was thinking I had 3/4 heims, so no go there, so dropped the steering off with the great guys at A&B Machine in Fruitport here. Worked with them before and they are some good guys. So dropped that off on Tues so hope to have it tomorrow. There was a question on the wall thickness being a bit small with the tie rod ends. So may cause concern perhaps. So going to wait to see when get back and then if nothing less just sleeve the tube and call it a day. Not worried about hitting it as be above the springs but the concern was in the banging and hard steering out in the ruts and rocks with the 37's. plan to is to go hydro assist later on.
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Old May 12th, 2011, 08:31 PM   #18
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I'm sure this has all been handled since (being a week old), but yes, 7/8ths-18 right and left handed taps are needed and if going with 1.250 DOM, the wall thickness should be 7/32nds to avoid needing to bore.
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Old May 12th, 2011, 08:35 PM   #19
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yeah had to take to a machine shop, that come to find out didnt, have those taps so had to do it by point(?) and was told by guy it was a pain in the ass, and they only threaded out 2" when I needed 3" now the steel is useless, so grab an aftermarket one off another axle, and will make it work. Going to just use 1.5: and get the bungs, fuck this stupid shit.
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Old May 12th, 2011, 09:04 PM   #20
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We have what you need,although it sounds like i'm a little late.PM me if you need some work done.
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