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Old March 30th, 2011, 11:58 PM   #1
yyj87
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Default YJ renewal!

I do not consider myself to me be a master fabricator, body guy or mechanic. However, I know my way around my 110v mig and angle grinder and hope to turn this crusty YJ around.

My jeep currently has a few cancerous lesions (look surprised) and in the next few weeks I intend to repair them. I look forward to the feedback I will get from all of the professionals that call GL4x4 there home.

I would appreciate any serious input you have!



1991 Jeep wrangler Islander, 4.0, ax15, np231, d30 and d35. (once again, look surprised)

Modifications and stuff to date.

Tube fenders front
2.5" ome
fozy locked Dana 30
TJ flares rear
Belly up
32x1150x15 Mud claws (I know)

This jeep is a DD/weekend warior, the tires wont get any larger than a 33 and I wont go to an ford 8.8 rear end unless I break stuff. My goal is to be as capable as possible on 33s.

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Old March 31st, 2011, 12:01 AM   #2
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Belly UP

I spent about 2 hours running the BFH around under the tub making room for the TC. The crossmember is even with the frame rails and the t-case has 3/4" of clearance at its closest point to te tub, NO BODY LIFT.



My new crossmember.

I started with 16' of 1x1x0.120. Longest peice is 30", the two short ones in the center are 11" and the centered one with the 45* ends is about 18".



Welded and ground.





Painted and ready for install.







The tummy tuck is a success!
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Old March 31st, 2011, 12:06 AM   #3
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Skid





That's rustoleum thinned 50% with acetone and sprayed with an hvlp. picture was taken 12hrs after it was sprayed. Thinning with acetone leaves a very nice glossy finish for whatever reason. Ill be spraying my jeep with this soon. Orange peel Is due to impatience, its a skid plate piss on it.

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Old March 31st, 2011, 12:32 AM   #4
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This afternoon I removed the hard top and backed the jeep in the garage.


Most of the interior out of the way.


Here is what I'm up against.

Body mounts the way god intended them to be built.



Floor rot........shit..... this is a lot of work.






Fischer, my 8 week old border collie/yellow lab mix seconds after christening the tub.


The out side



Not sure how to attack this one.




There is 1/2 quart of bondo here.


Tomorrow the hoop comes out along with the dash and the windshield frame. I will probably start the cutting.
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Old March 31st, 2011, 01:12 AM   #5
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Wow, good work on the clearancing for the t case. I have been considering the same on my TJ. I did something similar on my old YJ, but I used a BL. Oh well.
Have a better picture of the hammering you did, top or bottom?

I just helped a buddy replace the drivers floor in his YJ. It was a lot of welding. I did most of it, heh! I wish he had gotten a fiberglass tub instead, but they are a bit spendy. Ah well. Next one, maybe.

I was wondering the same about the seam in the back. From looking at them, there isn't much you can do. Cover with armor, that's about it. The water gets into it from the back side, no matter what.
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Old March 31st, 2011, 01:16 AM   #6
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I sprayed a Rustoleum paint job on a bus, and it's good so far. Well, what I got finished is. I only got about one coat on too. Too much bus, too little time, too windy most days to continue. I started first with a roller, but it was terrible, so I sanded it down and borrowed a large airless sprayer set up. Works well, but a huge PITA to clean. I think I will try with a wagner type sprayer next.
You are on the right track, in my opinion. It's not a show car, it's a jeep. Might as well paint it with something easy to touch up, available at any Menards, and inexpensive. There is enough color possibilities for me.
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Old March 31st, 2011, 07:57 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by dentedvw View Post
Wow, good work on the clearancing for the t case. I have been considering the same on my TJ. I did something similar on my old YJ, but I used a BL. Oh well.
Have a better picture of the hammering you did, top or bottom?

I just helped a buddy replace the drivers floor in his YJ. It was a lot of welding. I did most of it, heh! I wish he had gotten a fiberglass tub instead, but they are a bit spendy. Ah well. Next one, maybe.

I was wondering the same about the seam in the back. From looking at them, there isn't much you can do. Cover with armor, that's about it. The water gets into it from the back side, no matter what.

Im going to clean that pinch weld best I can and weld the bastard shut!

Ill take more pics today of tub mods for belly up, I havnt installed my MML yet. Works without it but has a terrible pinion angle.

You need to get up here for a beer and some leaf springs.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw View Post
I sprayed a Rustoleum paint job on a bus, and it's good so far. Well, what I got finished is. I only got about one coat on too. Too much bus, too little time, too windy most days to continue. I started first with a roller, but it was terrible, so I sanded it down and borrowed a large airless sprayer set up. Works well, but a huge PITA to clean. I think I will try with a wagner type sprayer next.
You are on the right track, in my opinion. It's not a show car, it's a jeep. Might as well paint it with something easy to touch up, available at any Menards, and inexpensive. There is enough color possibilities for me.

I have painted 4 trailers with rustoleum(2 enclosed), the first was about 4 years ago and it still looks great.

What I have lerned
-Keep recoating when its sticky to the touch but your finger doesnt leave a mark in the paint.
-Acetone creats the best finish
-Filter....filter...filter, there is a lot of crap in this cheep paint, filter it out.
-Clear doesnt work with rustoleum
-Buffer is your friend, wait few weeks or a month after the car is sprayed and buf the snot out of it.
-wax

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Old March 31st, 2011, 05:56 PM   #8
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cool cross member
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Old March 31st, 2011, 08:25 PM   #9
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cool cross member
Thank you


My BFF in the brown jump suite dropped this off today.


I didn't get as much done as I wanted today, the windshield frame was a major PITA. The last time I removed one the hinges ended up bent and when I tried to straighten them they broke. These are not the originals but they were a little crusty and wasnt about to risk it.



I broke my last torx bit on the 2nd to the last bolt holding the hoop in. Ill have to go to sears and reload tomorrow.


I do not intend on putting my hard top back on this year, I hope it doesn't snow too much!

Tomorrow Will bring more dis-assembly and hopefully some cutting, UPS guy hasn't dropped off my haul of cut off wheels yet.

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Old March 31st, 2011, 08:29 PM   #10
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did you do a motor mount lift when you did your tummy tuck?
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Old March 31st, 2011, 08:42 PM   #11
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did you do a motor mount lift when you did your tummy tuck?
I purchased one but didn't install it.... Jeep forum claimed that a 1" body lift and 1" MML were absolutely required. Jackasses.... My motor still has a very healthy lean to the rear.

Things that happened due to no MML

1. fan contacts fan shroud and doesn't spin (I cut the bottom of the shroud off Works great!)
2. T Case yoke is REALLY high and results in a terrible angle at the DC. (I have no vibes)
3. You cut your tub clearance work in half/dont need body lift. The trans is VERY close to the tub (.75") so if you do a MML you need a body lift or a new tunnel. If you have more than a 2.5" lift without stretch I doubt you could make it work.


The fan shroud could have been moved down by simply making new holes, but that wouldnt be any fun.

I have no drive line vibes.



So all is well without an mml, just be prepared to modify more stuff.

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Old April 1st, 2011, 08:49 PM   #12
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Continued stripping the jeep today.



I did a little cutting



Hooray for Bondo! (little over 1/4" thick)



I also went and picked up my wheels/had them mounted and balanced. I have nice shiny center caps and new lug nuts to go with them. Keep it in your pants there just wagon wheels.


Tomorrow Ill pull all that's remaining and start patching the holes.
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Old April 2nd, 2011, 09:14 AM   #13
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Looks good
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Old April 2nd, 2011, 08:50 PM   #14
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Made some progress today and have my final tub rot assessment.....

All of the sheet metal under the tailgate needs to be replaced along with the boxed section. From the fuel filler to the other side, not good.

The mounts under the cargo area are perfect as could be.

Drivers side are GONE from here on out.

Passengers side rear (under roll bar) is toast and the other two are fine, Ill have to replace the actual nut but the sheet metal is fine.


Im going to be a sheet metal fabricator extraordinaire when this is all said and done.








Hurray for michigan
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 11:05 PM   #15
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Finished doing all of the cutting I wanted to do on the drivers side floor boards, Everything is cut back to 100% solid/weldable steel.

If your doing sheet metal work you need a set of these!

Cobalt air sheers, Box says 18 GA and smaller but it rips through the 16GA like its nothing.

Here is what I actually accomplished today.




My sheet metal butt welds are far from perfect, they seem to have good penetration and I only burned through once. The patch is warped just a smidgen at the bottom, My rocker guards will straighten it out.

I will slow down on the next patch to keep the warping to a minimum.

Tomorrow will bring more, I had a lot of other crap going on and spent maybe 3 hours in the garage today. Just the dogs and I home tomorrow, Ill be able to spend all day on this thing.

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Old April 10th, 2011, 08:58 PM   #16
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Seconds after the 5th and final coat of thinned rustoleum.


Tub not bolted to frame.


Aussie Is in after removing some of the carrier with a die grinder.

Last edited by yyj87; April 19th, 2011 at 10:34 PM.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 10:52 PM   #17
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way to work your ass off man, looks good keep up the good work
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Old April 10th, 2011, 11:04 PM   #18
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Looks great! before you moved it outside, I thought it was the same color as mine

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...iott/CJ7/4.jpg

What is the color # or name that you used from the Rustoleum line?
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Old April 10th, 2011, 11:29 PM   #19
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Looks great! before you moved it outside, I thought it was the same color as mine

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...iott/CJ7/4.jpg

What is the color # or name that you used from the Rustoleum line?


Safety Yellow from Lowe's

looks like you spent a little more time on prep work than I did, your sheet metal is in much better shape.

Im very happy with the product. If I had replaced all of the rash with straight sheet metal, filled the dings and spend hours sanding to achieve the perfect paint job I would be driving accordingly for the rest of the summer not to mention broke as a joke.

It Looks perfect from 10' away and I have no intention of it ever being any better.


Total rust repair/paint cost me about $150 considering consumables like cutoff wheels, welding wire, beer and coffee

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Old April 11th, 2011, 12:24 PM   #20
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That came out pretty darn good!
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