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Old March 9th, 2011, 10:37 PM   #1
Ready4Wheelin
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Default Who here can weld my rear diif and do a great job?

I've always wanted to weld the rear diff in my '01 XJ. Now that it's not so much my daily driver, I'd like to try it out. So I picked up another 8.25 Chrysler and will have it welded, if I don't like it on the street I can swap my good one back in. I know how to weld spiders, but all I've ever really done is a quick mig job on the derby/figure 8 cars I've run. Didn't really matter how long they lasted. But when it comes to my Jeep, I want somebody to do a good quality job, since it will see street use, and at times about 400-500 miles to go wheelin and back.

I've heard of many different "proper" ways to do it, from pre-heating the gears prior to welding, tacking the spiders then pulling the carrier to bench weld, and stick welding rather than mig, and using 2 different size rods on top of each other.

This being said, who knows the best and most reliable way to do this, and would be willing to do so for me? I'm willing to pay a reasonable amount of cash, and ideally would like to set up a time where I could bring the axle out (it's out of the vehicle), watch and learn as you work your magic, and take it back with me. I won't be ready to do this for at least a week, but would like to do soon. I'm not looking for any warranties or guarantees, nor will I hold anybody at fault for any failure.

Feel free to PM me a price if you don't want to post. Oh, and looking to within a hour drive of metro Detroit. Thanks in advance!
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Old March 10th, 2011, 08:36 AM   #2
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I just welded my Spiders gear "fozzy" style... Its easy, replaceable, and should hold up.
I did a little reading on this style of locker and decided it would be better than just welding everything together for me.

Google picture "fozzy locker"

Ill vouch for its lockerness, and you can barely tell that is has some play in it, works good, no noise from the diff I could weld it for you as well, but your pretty far away. Good luck
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Old March 24th, 2011, 10:45 PM   #3
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If you r going to pay to have it welded you should just look for a mini spool. Other wise a mig will do more than a good job.
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Old March 24th, 2011, 11:19 PM   #4
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I just welded my Spiders gear "fozzy" style... Its easy, replaceable, and should hold up.
I did a little reading on this style of locker and decided it would be better than just welding everything together for me.

Google picture "fozzy locker"

Ill vouch for its lockerness, and you can barely tell that is has some play in it, works good, no noise from the diff I could weld it for you as well, but your pretty far away. Good luck

My hpd30 has been fozy locked for 6 months, I did it with a 110v flux core welder ( ) Works great! No signs of unhappiness after a fair amount of 4wd action.

Do some research, I hard a hard time finding anyone with actual experience that could say a bad thing about it. Those who haven't tried it seem to hate it.
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Old March 25th, 2011, 12:01 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ready4Wheelin View Post
I've always wanted to weld the rear diff in my '01 XJ. Now that it's not so much my daily driver, I'd like to try it out. So I picked up another 8.25 Chrysler and will have it welded, if I don't like it on the street I can swap my good one back in. I know how to weld spiders, but all I've ever really done is a quick mig job on the derby/figure 8 cars I've run. Didn't really matter how long they lasted. But when it comes to my Jeep, I want somebody to do a good quality job, since it will see street use, and at times about 400-500 miles to go wheelin and back.

I've heard of many different "proper" ways to do it, from pre-heating the gears prior to welding, tacking the spiders then pulling the carrier to bench weld, and stick welding rather than mig, and using 2 different size rods on top of each other.

This being said, who knows the best and most reliable way to do this, and would be willing to do so for me? I'm willing to pay a reasonable amount of cash, and ideally would like to set up a time where I could bring the axle out (it's out of the vehicle), watch and learn as you work your magic, and take it back with me. I won't be ready to do this for at least a week, but would like to do soon. I'm not looking for any warranties or guarantees, nor will I hold anybody at fault for any failure.

Feel free to PM me a price if you don't want to post. Oh, and looking to within a hour drive of metro Detroit. Thanks in advance!
lol
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Old March 25th, 2011, 12:02 PM   #6
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My hpd30 has been fozy locked for 6 months, I did it with a 110v flux core welder ( ) Works great! No signs of unhappiness after a fair amount of 4wd action.

Do some research, I hard a hard time finding anyone with actual experience that could say a bad thing about it. Those who haven't tried it seem to hate it.
I also used a 110v welder I fully expect to break everything else before the actual spider gears give me any trouble

Working good for me so far. I just have the rear locked and can barely tells its there anymore.
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Old March 25th, 2011, 12:49 PM   #7
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I also used a 110v welder I fully expect to break everything else before the actual spider gears give me any trouble

Working good for me so far. I just have the rear locked and can barely tells its there anymore.

i used a map gas torch and got that little side/spider gear as hot as I could and then soft served the voids like they insulted my mother . Used a flapper disc to clean em up.

Google Fozzy locker, much more good than bad and most of the people bitching are running cute axles on mean tires or they have never actually done it. There was a post on jeep forum last summer regarding the fozzy, guy used it to lock a d35 that was running 37s and it lasted 4-5 trips. He broke it in a parking lot and was able to clean the diff out and install new spiders.



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Old March 25th, 2011, 01:09 PM   #8
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I could be wrong but when you fuzzy lock an axle wouldn't it put a lot of extra stress on your carrier? It seems like the gears trying to climb on top of each other would push out on the carrier. I could be wrong I've never done it before.
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Old March 25th, 2011, 01:31 PM   #9
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I could be wrong but when you fuzzy lock an axle wouldn't it put a lot of extra stress on your carrier? It seems like the gears trying to climb on top of each other would push out on the carrier. I could be wrong I've never done it before.

Then stfu!


I agree it seems like it would be a lot of stress on the carrier but like I posted, hard to find legit info proving its a problem.


The night before I did mine I made it to page 150 somthing on a google search and only found a hand full of people who had broken the carrier/spiders. All of them were running upgraded shafts and 37"+ on stock shit. This was regarding the d30/35 (yes I spent 4 hours doing research)

Axles shafts will break before the carrier and if your going to weld your diff the fozzy IMO your best/cheepest option (thats why people weld right? because its CHEEP). The carrier is stronger than the cross pin and an ausie is going to put all of the drive force on that pin. Anything besides an open diff is going to stress part of the axle, no matter how you lock the rear your taking a risk. Man up and softserve the voids until your wooden workbench catches fire!

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Old March 25th, 2011, 01:51 PM   #10
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Then stfu!


I agree it seems like it would be a lot of stress on the carrier but like I posted, hard to find legit info proving its a problem.


The night before I did mine I made it to page 150 somthing on a google search and only found a hand full of people who had broken the carrier/spiders. All of them were running upgraded shafts and 37"+ on stock shit. This was regarding the d30/35 (yes I spent 4 hours doing research)

Axles shafts will break before the carrier and if your going to weld your diff the fozzy IMO your best/cheepest option (thats why people weld right? because its CHEEP). The carrier is stronger than the cross pin and an ausie is going to put all of the drive force on that pin. Anything besides an open diff is going to stress part of the axle, no matter how you lock the rear your taking a risk. Man up and softserve the voids until your wooden workbench catches fire!

when i say i have never done it i mean i have never fozzy locked anything, i have welded plenty of spider gears. personally on a c clip axle i would pre heat everything and tig weld the gears together. if it is a non c clip axle i would cut a piece of steel that will fit between the spider and side gears and weld the gears together and tig weld the gears to the plates. i can see the only good thing about fozzy locking is the ability to change the spider and side gears if you want an open axle again.
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Old March 25th, 2011, 02:29 PM   #11
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when i say i have never done it i mean i have never fozzy locked anything, i have welded plenty of spider gears. personally on a c clip axle i would pre heat everything and tig weld the gears together. if it is a non c clip axle i would cut a piece of steel that will fit between the spider and side gears and weld the gears together and tig weld the gears to the plates. i can see the only good thing about fozzy locking is the ability to change the spider and side gears if you want an open axle again.
That was my point




One other Big positive is that instead of the axles pulling/twisting he welds you pushing the weld into the spider

Im not saying the fozzy is stronger than the standard method, Im saying that IMO its close in strenght and can be done with a standard mig vs paying somone to TIG/stick it together and its removable.

The few examples of a failed fozy I found showed no signs of damage to anything but the spider/side gear, the carrier/r&p were still usable. Most of the welded carriers I have seen were TOAST and once all the weld is floating around in the diff its only a matter time before the ring and pinion are toast too.

If the op is going to pay some one to do this correctly he is porbably going to have $150 or better into it, at that point why not buy the $250 aussie?
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Old March 25th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #12
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I only filled in 1 tooth gap, and also used a flapper disc to flatten it out. Ive read a lot on it, welding the side gear and spiders together and to the carrier is a different kind of stress. I went this way because every one who was wheeling withing their limits didnt have anything bad to say about it, I'm only running 33s on a d35. i think ill be OK. and its removal able if it were to break.. which is about the biggest plus for me

I think I have a few more teeth open than you do 3 slots to your 2 , Ive seen picture of the teeth done multiple different ways and i don't forsee much difference or problems with doing it different ways. I also only welded 1 teeth wide because the spiders gears are never gonna touch more than that.


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Old March 26th, 2011, 01:43 PM   #13
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lol
Care to try following me thru the woods, even with an open diff?
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Old March 26th, 2011, 01:45 PM   #14
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Care to try following me thru the woods, even with an open diff?
Haha I forgot you've been doing this longer than I have
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Old March 26th, 2011, 01:50 PM   #15
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Haha I forgot you've been doing this longer than I have
'Course, the way I've seen Rocky drive her Manche, I might have a run for my money!
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Old March 26th, 2011, 01:53 PM   #16
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LOL yeah, only person to almost hit the only telephone pole in our backyard when she's doin' her donuts.

Anyways, bring your rear to Steve's and I'll set you up.
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Old March 26th, 2011, 02:00 PM   #17
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Thanks bud, will do! I'll get a hold of you in a few weeks when I'm ready. Don't know why I never thought to ask you?
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Old March 26th, 2011, 02:07 PM   #18
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Still running those 31's? If you're partial to your tires I'd throw some streets on the back for driving up north, Comanche turns good but the rear tires scrub like a motherfucker, leaves little black patches every foot on the pavement from the inside tire loading and unloading when going slow.

Better than welding up solid, then you can forget about turning.
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Old March 27th, 2011, 12:30 AM   #19
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I only filled in 1 tooth gap, and also used a flapper disc to flatten it out. Ive read a lot on it, welding the side gear and spiders together and to the carrier is a different kind of stress. I went this way because every one who was wheeling withing their limits didnt have anything bad to say about it, I'm only running 33s on a d35. i think ill be OK. and its removal able if it were to break.. which is about the biggest plus for me

I think I have a few more teeth open than you do 3 slots to your 2 , Ive seen picture of the teeth done multiple different ways and i don't forsee much difference or problems with doing it different ways. I also only welded 1 teeth wide because the spiders gears are never gonna touch more than that.

I left no extra teeth open because I didn't want that much play in there.

I welded 2 teeth shit just because I can.
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Old March 27th, 2011, 10:27 AM   #20
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I left no extra teeth open because I didn't want that much play in there.

I welded 2 teeth shit just because I can.
I looked and looked, seen it done lots of ways with various weld patterns I cant tell that it has that any more play in it. If i was gonna do it again, i would try it with a tighter pattern with less play to just to try it.

I do wonder if i should have welded that spot in the spider gear where that single tooth hits so that tooth has some more rigidity from lateral movement- Ill prolly just wait for it to break and do it better
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