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Old February 10th, 2011, 04:14 PM   #1
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Default What axles do I want?

I have a 93 YJ, 4.0, manual. Right now it has d30/d35 with true tracs and 4.10's and running 33's. I would like to run 35's or 36's and probably 4.88's or lower. What axles do I want to run with 35's? I don't want full width. I already have a pass drop kingpin 60 and a trussed 14b but I don't want to go full width and with only running 35 or 36" tires I would dragging the pigs a lot, I think.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 04:22 PM   #2
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I have a 93 YJ, 4.0, manual. Right now it has d30/d35 with true tracs and 4.10's and running 33's. I would like to run 35's or 36's and probably 4.88's or lower. What axles do I want to run with 35's? I don't want full width. I already have a pass drop kingpin 60 and a trussed 14b but I don't want to go full width and with only running 35 or 36" tires I would dragging the pigs a lot, I think.

Shakes head in disbelisf that you don't want to use these. Sell me the 14 bolt.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 04:39 PM   #3
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Shakes head in disbelisf that you don't want to use these. Sell me the 14 bolt.
i didn't say i don't want them... i just don't want to use them yet most of the guys in our group are still running 33's but some will be going to 35's soon. i just don't want to be too far ahead of everyone else in tire size and i also want to keep my jeep very streetable.

'course maybe i should go a little big on the axle side

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Old February 10th, 2011, 04:43 PM   #4
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i didn't say i don't want them... i just don't want to use them yet most of the guys in our group are still running 33's but some will be going to 35's soon. i just don't want to be too far ahead of everyone else in tire size and i also want to keep my jeep very streetable.

'course maybe i should go a little big on the axle side


Just build it right the first time, maybe it will light a fire under your wheelin buddies asses Mine with 60's front and rear was very streetable, did 70 down the highway just fine, til i started messin with the tire inners. Erins goes down the highway straight as an arrow after all he puts that thing thru and on 42's....so no more excuses....build it!
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Old February 10th, 2011, 05:11 PM   #5
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Just build it right the first time, maybe it will light a fire under your wheelin buddies asses Mine with 60's front and rear was very streetable, did 70 down the highway just fine, til i started messin with the tire inners. Erins goes down the highway straight as an arrow after all he puts that thing thru and on 42's....so no more excuses....build it!
This is true. Doesn't matter what axle you put under it, if it's done right it will drive right.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 05:16 PM   #6
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This is true. Doesn't matter what axle you put under it, if it's done right it will drive right.
i was thinking more of tire size
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Old February 10th, 2011, 05:18 PM   #7
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i was thinking more of tire size
Swap in an 8.8 in the rear, put chromo axles in the front, wheel with semi-responsible foot.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 05:19 PM   #8
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i was thinking more of tire size


read above post over, i have 40's erin runs 42's, both do great on the roads.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 05:53 PM   #9
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i did dana 44"s front and back with 4.88 and will be running 35 and shouldn't have any prob at all. anything beyond the week ass dana 30 unitbearing will be a plus. but with a 60 and 14b on hand i dont see why you even think of anything else. you wont worry about hurting them axles no matter what u do but the rest of your driveterrian is another story. the 1 tons are big and heavy and will be hard on your t case and trans so it really depends on how far and how much money your willing to put out. i say go big or go home but its your money.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 07:54 PM   #10
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I agree with CHEROKEEMUDMAN01! If you have the axles id suggest swapping them in so you can beat on it without ever worrying. If you dont want to do that yet i recommend swapping in a 8.8 or dana 44 in the rear and you will be all set.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 04:35 PM   #11
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once you go to 35s, down the road you will be thinking: i think i could fit 38s, before you know it your putting the 60 and 14 bolt in anyway so you might as well swap them in now.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 04:39 PM   #12
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once you go to 35s, down the road you will be thinking: i think i could fit 38s, before you know it your putting the 60 and 14 bolt in anyway so you might as well swap them in now.

Exactly!
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Old February 11th, 2011, 04:49 PM   #13
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i run my jeep with 44s down the road all the time, with no problems
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Old February 12th, 2011, 12:48 AM   #14
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i'm leaning toward keeping the 30/35 and 33's until next winter and swap the tons in then and going with a little larger tire than i was planning. it seems there isn't a real good axle combo for running 35's, it looks like it would make more sense to go from 33's on what i have now to 37" or 38's on the one tons. i'm sticking with leaves spring under though, simplicity ftw.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 12:49 AM   #15
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thanks for all the good advice so far.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 07:29 AM   #16
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35" tires will break Spicer 760 u-joints and stock yokes which are what you will get with either a D30 or D44. The only option is $1K worth of axle shafts and joints. Now, if you are POSITIVE you will not be going to tires larger than 37", then that is not a bad option. If you remotely think you will be going to a 38" tire or larger, and since you already own the 60/14 combo, go straight to the combo. With that, also stay full width. You won't regret it.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 07:59 AM   #17
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THe problem is the 36-38" tire range really sucks for axle options.

Below that, beefed 30s and 44s work well. Above that range 1 tons work fine.

For 36s, 37s, 1 tons cost you ground clearance. Full width makes this worse, especially in crowned/rutted roads, and in rocks. Wheeled with a guy with 35s and D60s in Harlan, it was a horror show. Dragged on everything.

The ideal IMO, are built Ford 9's front and rear that get the strength with the clearance of D44s or better. But the cost is pretty high.

Really depends on where, how, and who you wheel with. I know tons of people who do fine with 36s and 38s on dana 44s, and I know those that break them.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 11:41 AM   #18
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I'm a fan of going to the big axles, and love wheeling with full width, which adds alot of stability.

However I see your point about dragging axles. As the others have mentioned, going with a 8.8 in the rear and upgrading the front axle shafts to the 297 joint ones will help alot. That is my current plan with my DD XJ, and I have several bigger axles lying around.

I see no-one has mentioned one alternative though. Ditch the 14 bolt rear and go with a 60 or 70 rear. You will gain about 2 inches of ground clearance, and end up with a better overall rear axle. The 14 bolt is where you are going to be loosing alot of ground clearance and pinion angle over a dana axle.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 12:05 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
THe problem is the 36-38" tire range really sucks for axle options.

Below that, beefed 30s and 44s work well. Above that range 1 tons work fine.

For 36s, 37s, 1 tons cost you ground clearance. Full width makes this worse, especially in crowned/rutted roads, and in rocks. Wheeled with a guy with 35s and D60s in Harlan, it was a horror show. Dragged on everything.

The ideal IMO, are built Ford 9's front and rear that get the strength with the clearance of D44s or better. But the cost is pretty high.

Really depends on where, how, and who you wheel with. I know tons of people who do fine with 36s and 38s on dana 44s, and I know those that break them.
This is how I feel. I've been contemplating building 60's for years but can hardly justify the cost when I know I won't run anything bigger than 35-36's, and I hardly wheel anymore anyway, typically just Michigan stuff. I think I'm going to build a HD HP44 TJ width with RCV's and call it good.
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Old February 13th, 2011, 12:37 PM   #20
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i love the stability of my jeep, somtimes i find tight situations but the trade off is worth it

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