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Old February 14th, 2011, 06:17 AM   #41
jeepinboy70
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Ya, they work great, and they're for sale. Lol. As far as not wanting to "1 up your buddies" by going bigger. RAISE THE BAR FOR EVERYONE! have some fun.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 06:19 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Blazin_wheeler View Post
ok, i need to clear a couple of things up...

i have ez-lockers front and rear in the jeep now, not true tracs like i stated previously, my bad.

my Jeep with the 4.0, 5 spd, 33's and 4.10 gears has plenty of power for running 75+ (i don't usually drive faster than 60 anyways).

the main reason i wanted to go with 35's is because no one in our group has tires larger than 35's and some guys are still on 31's. i don't want to look like i'm trying to show up all my friends on the trail by running 39" tires when i'm going to be limited to trails that are doable on 33's, lol.


in retrospect i guess i should be happy with what i have now, it's just that i ended up with these one ton axles and a clocked dana 300 twin stick for a steal and started thinking about bigger tires. i'm thinking i'll just put the stuff away for a later date when it might be more practical to start considering a larger tire and axle combo and in the meantime run what i have until the 35 breaks and swap in a 8.8 when that happens.
Showing up your buddies with bigger tires is a stupid comment. The jeep belongs to you, what do YOU want to do with it? Maybe you should be the first guy in your group to move to a bigger tire size.

There is nothing wrong with wheeling what you have or even putting 35" tires on your current axles. I ran that combo for years with a 300+ hp SBC powering it. Yes, I broke stuff occasionally but it wasn't like something blew up every time I wheeled.

My suggestion to you stands. If YOU, not your buddies, think you will eventually want to run anything larger than a 36" tire and you are considering upgrades, (and you already own the 60/14 combo) then make the jump.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 07:15 AM   #43
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Truth be told, any road trip in a Yj, or a Tj for any length of time just sucks. Comfort was not the goal. I loved my TJ on 33's with a little budget lift for around town, still hated driving cross state in it. Can't imagine doing that trip in the one I have now. Not that it couldn't, just would suck

Have to agree with Jim , do what YOU want with it, I personally just couldn't leave those axles sitting in my garage. But then again, my jeep is not my dd
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Old February 14th, 2011, 07:15 AM   #44
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Im just laughing at that fact that you bring up driving to the dunes and then i notice you live in hart,next to the dunes. your going to the trouble to swap motors and stoping with a 4.0? And im the idiot?youve allready got the axles,put a ls1 or a hemi in it!! wtf?it will get way better fuel economy, the chevy will way less, and actually be able to spin the mud out of your 38s, or are they bald? and thats why your fine with 190 hp 4.0?
Ill have less into the swap than the price of buying a v8. I have no need for a v8. Hell my tow rig is a strait 6 so why do i need one in my jeep? Plus im gonna build a stroker I6 next winter after i get swap figured out. If you knew what gearing was about you would not think your 4.0 is a turd.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 12:34 PM   #45
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I agree with bdd1469 run with what you got if thats all you need.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 06:49 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Bones View Post
locker/gears aren't much more than a 44. I would be tempted to just run stock 4.10 gears with a 35" tire anyways. Run stock brakes. Why would you replace anything from the C's out. Run stock parts.

Rear 60s are free
If I could come up with all the outers for cheap for the front I would probably just get a 9" center section and make it the width I would want and put the 60 outers on it. Still, it would run me at least $2500 to do just the front.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 07:45 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by bdd1469 View Post
Not to cheap,to broke! Im only running 32s with 373s,power around town and off road is fine but theres nuthin left for passn on the high way at 70-75. Im not sure gears would help much because down shifting to 4th puts it otta the power curve. I was savin for gears but now im building a stroker first,should help push my brick down the highway.i guess im to used to my other daily driver,400 hp 12 sec camaro.its fun on the high way.
3.73 is too tall a gear. thats the whole problem. 32's and 4.10 would be much better. 3.73 is great with 30 inch tires, after that your s.o.l.
you wont need to downshift anymore if geared properly.

you would run 2648 rpm at 70 with 4.56's
you would run 2381 rpm at 70 with 4.10's
you currently run 2160 rpm at 70 with 3.73's

your not building enough power at 2150 rpms to push your brick.
at near 2400 you have considerably more power. your mpg will be much better also.

if you ever plan on 33's 4.56 is the way to go. otherwise go 4.10 and stick with 32's. your gearing will suck with a stroker too. your just geared wrong. its simple math. it never changes.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 08:08 PM   #48
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My $.02

Dont do anything until you have every bracket, flap disk, and brake banjo washer ready and waiting.

What year 60? Narrow it to <70" and trade your 14B for a good 9".

Enjoy the strength of a 60 up front, and the ground clearance of a 1/2 ton out back and be plenty strong for 35/6/7/8.

I would run mismatched bolt pattern wheels, because nobody really carry's a spare anyways, and if you start breaking 9" shafts, buy good ones, drilled to 8 lug.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 08:32 PM   #49
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Holy crap you guy's make me dizzy.......Just buy a freakin tank. O' wait, that probably wont hold up unless it has 1 tons in it either.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 08:44 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
My $.02

Dont do anything until you have every bracket, flap disk, and brake banjo washer ready and waiting.

What year 60? Narrow it to <70" and trade your 14B for a good 9".

Enjoy the strength of a 60 up front, and the ground clearance of a 1/2 ton out back and be plenty strong for 35/6/7/8.

I would run mismatched bolt pattern wheels, because nobody really carry's a spare anyways, and if you start breaking 9" shafts, buy good ones, drilled to 8 lug.
Huh?
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Old February 14th, 2011, 08:53 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
My $.02

Dont do anything until you have every bracket, flap disk, and brake banjo washer ready and waiting.

What year 60? Narrow it to <70" and trade your 14B for a good 9".

Enjoy the strength of a 60 up front, and the ground clearance of a 1/2 ton out back and be plenty strong for 35/6/7/8.

I would run mismatched bolt pattern wheels, because nobody really carry's a spare anyways, and if you start breaking 9" shafts, buy good ones, drilled to 8 lug.
i'm not sure on the year. it's supposed to be from a Dodge Snow Commander but the spindles look Chevy to me? 'm definitely not set on using the 14 bolt and will have to cut off the link mount bracket if i use it because i'll be using leaf springs.







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Old February 14th, 2011, 10:45 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strangler View Post
My $.02


Dont do anything until you have every bracket, flap disk, and brake banjo washer ready and waiting.
sounds like very good advice to me. i could see myself getting it tore apart and then getting bogged down in a bunch of little stuff or running out of money before getting it back together.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 11:13 PM   #53
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oops.. i just noticed i have a d60 rear, not a 14 bolt
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Old February 14th, 2011, 11:28 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
3.73 is too tall a gear. thats the whole problem. 32's and 4.10 would be much better. 3.73 is great with 30 inch tires, after that your s.o.l.
you wont need to downshift anymore if geared properly.

you would run 2648 rpm at 70 with 4.56's
you would run 2381 rpm at 70 with 4.10's
you currently run 2160 rpm at 70 with 3.73's

your not building enough power at 2150 rpms to push your brick.
at near 2400 you have considerably more power. your mpg will be much better also.

if you ever plan on 33's 4.56 is the way to go. otherwise go 4.10 and stick with 32's. your gearing will suck with a stroker too. your just geared wrong. its simple math. it never changes.
I agree with every thing ya say.Im thinking that my stroker is gona make way more torque but i dont know if it will make much more at 2200 rpm.i do plan on 33s and i was figureing on 56s or maybe 88s.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 11:44 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullsize4life View Post
Ill have less into the swap than the price of buying a v8. I have no need for a v8. Hell my tow rig is a strait 6 so why do i need one in my jeep? Plus im gonna build a stroker I6 next winter after i get swap figured out. If you knew what gearing was about you would not think your 4.0 is a turd.
My tow rig is a 6 also and it aint a cumins, its in my jeep, and i only tow a small boat or couple sleds,but its a turd.and if i put 456s in it i could rev it more but its still gona be underpowerd. I know all about gearing, i spend lots a money with mike at dts.I know about about horse power too n i like it,more then big axles in underpowerd jeeps.
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