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Old February 2nd, 2011, 11:54 PM   #1
68Scout
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Default Any sledheads here? Having issues with '97 Polaris XLT

Also posted this on snowmobile forum last week...not getting any response so figured it wouldn't hurt to ask here.

I bought a '97 XLT a few weeks ago and have been having problems with it lately. The sled only has 2500 miles on it and is in near perfect shape.

I know a lot of guys hate the triples but I've had a few and they were all great sleds...if you just want to rip on the the sled then find somewhere else to do that.

-When I was riding a couple nights ago, I hit 90 and it bogged out like it was going to quit. This was with wide open throttle. I let off the throttle for a few seconds...slowed to around 20...hit it again and it pulled hard until 90 again. Then it bogged out again. Not sure if it happens at any particular RPM.

-My first thought was to check compression. Before buying it, I ran a compression test and got 120 across all 3 cylinders. I tested it again after I noticed this problem and I'm only getting 100 lbs in all 3 cylinders.

-I talked to Polaris and they suggested checking the seal by spraying with carb cleaner and seeing if idle changes. Tried that and nothing changed. The area around the seal looks dry and clean.

-I lost the foam filter that goes on top of the intake box. The lady that I spoke with at the Polaris dealer told me not having that filter would lower compression. However, I've been told by several others that this would not have any effect on compression.

.......a week or 2 later.....

I've put another 100 miles on it...still having the same problem. The "blizzard" brought some deep snow and the sled really struggles now...cant hold anything over 5500-6000 rpm in deep snow. It doesn't quit, it just loses power. I can hold the throttle wide open in deep snow and it'll bounce around between 4000 and 6000 rpm. When i let off the throttle, it'll go right back down to idle at 1500-2000 rpm...she'll run like that all day long. I checked the carb boots...they appear to be fine. Other than that I haven't messed with anything.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Justin
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 01:09 AM   #2
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For what its worth my ski doo did weird stuff like that when my primary clutch started sticking.

Mine would not bog necessarily though, when it hit like 80 it would just rev like something does when the rev limiter kicks on and i was no where near red-line.

Take a marker and draw a line on the inside of your primary and run it till it starts bogging on you and will not go any faster, then pop the hood and check to see if there is any marker left. If there is marker left then the primary needs rebuilding.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 05:07 AM   #3
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I would be pulling the carbs and cleaning them.
With that low of miles, this thing had to sit a lot and the carbs are proll full of sludge causing it to lean out.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 05:32 AM   #4
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Needle and seats, weak coil, plug wires/caps? Does that year have the 2 position key on it (87/91)?
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 06:20 AM   #5
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I would take the hour to clean out all three carbs and see what that does.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 09:18 AM   #6
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If i read this right you had 120 compresion and now it dropped across all three?head gasket? 100 psi will run but its not good.pull the pipe use mirror to look at piston skirts im guessin you have some melting going on from dirty carbs.running it like that is going to get expensive,if it hasnt wrecked the crank allready.pull carbs to look at pistons and pull recoil to look for wettness behind mag from bad crank seal.gas nowdays sucks ive replaced 100s of pistons on customers sleds because it gums up so fast even with stabile in it.i recomend draining tank and running till out of gas for storage.the foam on air box missing will let powder in and could freeze carbs up and will act as if you leaned it out a little but if noone has rejetted it it should be fine.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 09:20 AM   #7
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You probably started to fry the engine, because you kept riding it. Pull the plugs and look at them, what color are they? Pull the carbs and clean them good, take them apart. Check the reeds while you're there for shits n giggles. Next inspect the clutches for excess belt dust, and for any cracks. Do not wash them with anything but brake clean, starting fluid works too. Blow them out with compressed air and watch your face.

Report back after youve done this and well go further into it. Sad to say most likely you fried it!
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 09:52 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the input so far. Headed out first thing this morning to clean the carbs. I pulled the first one off on the clutch side and everything looked good inside- the PO mentioned he had cleaned them at the beginning of the season. Before pulling the other 2, I noticed that the "throttle" mechanism on the oil injector unit was rubbing on the drain hose for the 3rd carb float. So i checked that...when I pushed the throttle the oil injector throttle was getting stuck on the drain hose and staying wide open. Tried it several times and most of the time it would stick at some point or another. I moved the drain hose so that there's no interference anymore...seems to cycle freely now. I'm hoping this was the issue.

When i pulled the plugs before they were black and wet- I'm assuming this is because it was getting too much oil?

Also tried to look at the piston sides through the carb boots, and from what i could see they look fine. Hoping I didn't screw anything up too bad...

As far as the low compression goes, I'm going to try to get a different gauge to see if its just the gauge thats acting up.
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 11:24 AM   #9
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I just took it out for a ride, seems to run much better than before. However, it idles at about 4000 rpm now.

When i pulled the carbs, I only removed the float bowls- i did not mess with jets/ air screw/ etc...

Suggestions?
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Old February 3rd, 2011, 12:01 PM   #10
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I've had those oiler levers stick closed too and seen a twin blow up 100 miles after rebuild due to that. I bet you are leaning it out from no filter too and dark plugs may be from incomplete combustion from poor compression? Rings are prly getting bad... Put a filter in it first. Remember deep snow equals more work being done and therefore a leaner mix. Good luck.

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Old February 4th, 2011, 12:25 PM   #11
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Deep snow is going to restrict your exhaust and cause you to draw more of the hot, dirty air from the engine compartment, causing your sled to bog more.

One more thing for you to check is the vent tubes on the carburetors. If these get pinched, plugged, restricted in any way it will cause problems. Follow the vent tubes, typically they go up under the handlebar pad.
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Old February 4th, 2011, 12:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Scout View Post
I just took it out for a ride, seems to run much better than before. However, it idles at about 4000 rpm now.

When i pulled the carbs, I only removed the float bowls- i did not mess with jets/ air screw/ etc...

Suggestions?

High idles is directly in relation to air leaks, which means it is running lean and you're going to burn something up.

Check your carb boots, especially the one you just pulled off. Not sure with polarjunk, but with ski-doo's, carb boots cracking and y pipe cracking makes lots of engines go kaboom from the lean condition they create.


And yes, a stuck oiler will cause your plugs to be wet and black.
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