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Old January 28th, 2011, 01:07 PM   #1
Tex
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Default axles help for sas on 01 zr2

trying to figure out what axles work best looking to do sas on a 01 zr2 blazer but am not looking to put any bigger then maybe a 35 and dont want to change side of front drive shaft just trying to find out what trucks to get on from also looking at doing a leaf sprung set up?
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Old January 28th, 2011, 02:37 PM   #2
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waggy D44
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Old January 28th, 2011, 02:47 PM   #3
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ive been looking for some to get price ideas and am having a hard time most of what ive found on here are going for more then im looking to spend to have to change things out ive also been told to run 3/4 ton but trying to find out which years to look for
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Old January 28th, 2011, 02:49 PM   #4
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i have a set of waggy D44's i got for like 450 for both front and rear from the junkyard. mine came out of a 86 but up to a 91 will be what you want. you wont need 3/4 ton stuff to run 35's i plan on running 36's on mine with nothing more then gears and lockers. maybe upgraded u joints too.
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Old January 28th, 2011, 02:57 PM   #5
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ok so i should be alright with those then if i can find them around the Grand rapid for a fare price if i cant then ill just have to find some from a 3/4 ton
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Old January 28th, 2011, 03:01 PM   #6
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well do you want to be narrow or full width?
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Old January 28th, 2011, 03:19 PM   #7
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http://s10extremist.com/

everything you will ever need to know about doing this.
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Old January 28th, 2011, 03:28 PM   #8
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I would just throw a jeep YJ Dana 30 under it.. Narrow width readily available and cheap.
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Old January 28th, 2011, 03:35 PM   #9
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I would just throw a jeep YJ Dana 30 under it.. Narrow width readily available and cheap.
If you do this, I hear the stock S-10 wheel bearing bolts on and the axle size and spline count are the same so you can keep the 5x4 3/4 bolt pattern. I do not know this for fact, just a couple things I've heard about.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 11:08 AM   #10
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If you have questions on this im almost done doing the same swap on mine the hubs dont just bolt up and work like you would think you will need adapters made to space them properly out so the jeep brakes will work. Im doing a 98 zr2 with a high pinion dana 30 swap out of a 94 xj and i went coil spring full long arm 8" kit. theres also an adapter for your tansfer case that your gonna need to put a normal double cardan shaft on instead of the slip yoke. most of the steering is a very easy swap bc the gear box is in the right place already but you do have to fab up a track bar mount. and you will have to have the cherokee rotors re-drilled to match the chevy bolt pattern but then you can use all stock jeep brakes, rotors, & calipers and keep your abs and the light off the dash.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 11:18 AM   #11
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the hubs dont just bolt up and work like you would think you will need adapters made to space them properly out so the jeep brakes will work.
Like the JKS spacers you use when you swap WJ knuckles on a D30?
JKS Spacer
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Old January 29th, 2011, 11:38 AM   #12
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those would work for sure but that doesn't help the inner diameter of the knuckle. I have a set being machined out so that it supports the whole hub not just the flat flange so it fits just like the factory hub would in the knukle. those would work just fine and be alot cheaper than what im doing. my adapters space that hub out a 1/4" and space the gap between the knuckle and the chevy hub. the chevy hubs are just over a .300" smaller on the od than the jeep hubs. but have the same flange size and bolt pattern. the way im doing it is kinda over kill but im running 35's on a d30 and i like to wheel it hard so im trying to make it so theres less chances of failure.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 11:44 AM   #13
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Great info. I have a idea what you're doing now. You are basically sleeving the knuckle and have a spacer for the hub machined as one.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 12:42 PM   #14
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that's exactly what im doing i figure thats got to be the strongest way possible to support that hub. another good thing to get is the xj steering upgrade and get rid of the factory style y link setup.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 12:50 PM   #15
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the tcase adapter you will need is from synneregyoffroad.com and if you come across anything else you wanna know let me know and just ask. I work at a parts place and researched this swap out for about 4 months before i started it. im using the rough country xj long arm kit bc the plate that holds the arms is perfect width for the zr2 frame and made it alot easier to install without welding the plate straight to the frame. when its done ill have pics and info from start to finish on here.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 12:57 PM   #16
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I run eb axles on leafs, definitely the cheap way to go, but I would suggest upgraded ujoints since I keep breaking the cheap ones...
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I got your jeep thing, now my damn Chevy wont start, and its missing a wheel.
My build: http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=206107
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Old January 30th, 2011, 09:24 AM   #17
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so know form what im understanding is that once the axles are done im also going to have to convert my transfer case over from a slip yoke to a fixed one is that just for the front out put shaft or for the rear also?
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Old January 30th, 2011, 10:04 AM   #18
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Front shouldn't be a slip, I don't run one a SYE in the rear and I have no problems with the rear, for the front I have the DS from a 93 but its not quite the right fix, it bottoms out and cracks the t case. I'm running an LP ford D44 and have trail clearanceing for the front drive-shaft (hits the exhaust). It would be better to run a CV shaft so expect to stick some $$$ into the front drive-shaft I guess.



Also if you run stock prings in the rear, remove the bar on bottom and move half the helpers to the bottom, this will keep the springs from warping.
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I got your jeep thing, now my damn Chevy wont start, and its missing a wheel.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 11:14 AM   #19
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my plan i have in place when tax time comes:
waggy 44
grab parts from a jeep np231(front output yoke)
sky fab leaf hanger kit
leaf springs out of the rear of a dodge dakota(for the front)
cross over steer parts
astro van box
longer brake lines from ssbc

---takes care of front end......that i know

rear--
1/2 chevy c/k leaf springs(which are on my truck now)
dana 44 from Isuzu rodeo(rear disc and locker stock)

Pretty straight forward game plan but pricey.....i was told this would be hard to kill and last long time

oh and go get custom driveshaft made
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 12:21 PM   #20
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You would only need it for the front one the rear is good and i highly recomend the sye dont mess with the other shaft using the slip yoke. With the sye you will pry be able to use a jeep grand cherokee front shaft depending on how much lift you'll have. I'm going to have 8" suspension and 2" body when im done. So im using a grand cherokee shaft and having it lengthened a few inches and rebalanced at C.C.I.
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