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Old May 1st, 2011, 04:15 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevotass View Post
want to part with some of the 2.5" stuff. im working on the same thing. i need some mandrel bent 2.5 stuff to get from passenger side to drivers side of oil pan and then 2 into 1 at drivers side manifold. then im gonna up it to 3" single exhaust rest of the way.
Here's the parts I have laying around, I also have a few short straight pieces. Some is 2.5" OD and some is swaged to 2.5" ID for slip fitting.

I looked at the MAF, and see that it is cracked in the conector area. The locking tab is still fine, so it should plug in and work fine, maybe a little RTV to make sure this side seals up.




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Old May 1st, 2011, 04:34 PM   #142
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Little by little....

Decided to sell the LJ unlimited top today, so thats gone. I'll buy a regular scrambler supertop with full soft doors soom.

The transmission is back together, and reinstalled, and I got a t-case in there as well. I'm using a shorty dana 300 from a CJ5 I parted out 10 years ago. THis ends up making my rear driveshaft the same length as with the 258/TF999 in their originally so I can reuse the old rear driveshafts if I want. The front needs to be a narrow wall one to clear the transmission pan.

I decided against clocking it for now, don't feel like cutting the body up, getting seal extenders, etc. I really don't seem to get too hung up on t-cases, so I'll just form the skids around it and keep them smooth. Its about 2" higher than stock or so, once its in position, any further and the shifters were going to hit the body.

So I tacked in the crossmember mounts and tossed together a crossmember from a few pieces that I already had bends in laying around.



Got my new alternator in also, and the steering column is about buttoned up. Soon it'll actually be time to start plumbing...

Hmmm... I should link this bitch. I have a pile of DOM control arms and brackets laying around... Once everything else is done, this'll be one of the first things in the next phase. My rear leaf springs suck and I would need to add a traction bar anyway...

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Old May 1st, 2011, 08:33 PM   #143
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The crossmember has poly bushings at the frame, and then also a poly transmission mount at the trans, the standard GM style. And then also a 2nd poly mount is on the adapter, another of the GM style trans mounts. The tube runs right between them and there'll be a plate on tube of the tube that the mounts bolt to.

Hopefully the poly mounts on the crossmembers help reduce the shock when the chassis drops onto a rock or something. I'll run a little U shaped piece off the back of that crossmember to go under the back of the transfercase to protect it. But overall, not going to go rail to rail with a big sheet of a skid plate. Don't think its necessary with what I'll be doing with this, and it'll see its share of mud and water, so I don't want a lot of plates that will just collect mud.
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Old May 10th, 2011, 07:26 PM   #144
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Troy changed the connectors on my harnass to the flat plug. Using 02's from 94-97 LT1 motor part # AFS75
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Old May 10th, 2011, 09:19 PM   #145
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Ahhh, probably to match all the other changes. Thanks alot for the part numbers!

I think I need to take some time off work and start working more on this. Silver lake in July or bust!!

I started bending up a center console mount for my trans shifter and trans temp gage, hope to have those done this weekend..
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Old May 11th, 2011, 06:06 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Ahhh, probably to match all the other changes. Thanks alot for the part numbers!

I think I need to take some time off work and start working more on this. Silver lake in July or bust!!

I started bending up a center console mount for my trans shifter and trans temp gage, hope to have those done this weekend..
Exactly.
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Old May 15th, 2011, 09:01 PM   #147
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So, started on the exhaust, and it looks like dual won't clear the transfer case without being a pain in the butt, so going to switch back to a 2.25 dual into 3" single. GOt most of the passenger side done, need to merge it with the drivers side next.

In the mean time, got around to aligning the motor, its offset about 1/2" to the drivers side. Maybe I can scoot it a little more, its about 1/2 to 3/4" clearance between the steering shaft and the power steering pulley.

Welded the crossmember up, has a plate that the trans mounts bolt to. Installed the bushing and sleeves, and bolts it all up. So this is the first time the engine/trans/t-case is fully bolted in, no jackstands, no temporary mounts. So thats nice.

Thats about it for today, I cleaned the garage and installed a 32" LCD tv out there too :-)
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Old May 15th, 2011, 09:23 PM   #148
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Looks great! Glad to see the old girl coming together. I almost pooped in the passenger seat once. TJ made me a bit skeered
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Old May 28th, 2011, 08:22 PM   #149
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updates???
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Old May 31st, 2011, 08:22 AM   #150
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Update for memorial day:


Pulled the gas tank out last weekend to start figuring out how to cram everything into it. After spending a weekend trying different things, I decided not to use the existing tank. It was a replacement poly tank, 20 gallon or more, its really big, and hangs down too low for my taste. The crossmembers were getting bent from the jeep putting all its weight on the skid plate. So out it came.

Put a 19 gallon cell behind the rear seat. This might change in the future but will work for now. I have plenty of cargo space still.

So, worked on the fuel system. Bending hardlines, making AN hoses, etc. The system is: -8AN from fuel tank to corvette filter. I had to knock it to -6AN to fit the quick connect fitting at the filter. Then 5/16 back to -8AN to the tank for the return line. From the filter forward, there's 3/8" steel line up to the engine compartment. The fuel filter end has the special flare for the quick connect. The other end, I reflared it with an AN flare nut, which connects to a -6AN hose, with another quick connect fitting to connect to the fuel rail.

I just need to run the vent line, ran out of -8AN fittings.

Today, I'm going to work on the exhaust system.





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Old June 1st, 2011, 08:45 AM   #151
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More work done yesterday. Finished up the y pipe. Honestly, thats the last big piece of fab left on it, now its mostly hooking everything up and such.

Exhaust is 2.25" off each collector to a 3" merge pipe.

To make the merge, I take 1/2 the diameter of the 3" pipe, and mark that distance on the end of the 2.25" pipe. So thats 2 dots on the end of the tube. Make a dot 1/2way between them, and draw a line down the pipe 6" from the center dot. Connect all the dots to make a triangle, and then cut that out, then just form the tube on a piece of heavy steel tube to make a 3" half circle at the end. Makes a nice smooth flowing transition, not just one tube dumping into the other.





I've got an O2 sensor bung about 4" past each collector. I really could use a TIG welder. I did all this with 0.025" in my MIG with lots of spot welds. not very pretty.



It clears the oil pan decently without hanging down. I tried to keep >1" clearance around it.



It tucks up in the framerail pretty well. It'll all run back to a single 40 series flowmaster, most likely. I'll just cut a bigger hole in the muffler and weld on a 3" inlet (its a 2.5" right now)...



I was also able to get my VDO fuel sender adjusted and into the fuel tank(needed to englarge the hole in the tank a little to fit it). Mine is I think 190 full, 10 empty, the tank came with the typical 90/0 GM style.

Next steps are to figure up the mounting of my fuel pump. There's a 1/2" tube in the tank that just goes all the way to the bottom, so I need to modify that to securely accept a fuel pump, or run another bulkhead fitting through the top for the pump. We'll see......
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Old June 1st, 2011, 08:59 AM   #152
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I was looking at your exhaust trying to figure out if you flipped the picture or just screwed the whole thing up. Then I remembered you were running the D300

It looks good, I like your ideas where the two sides merge.
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Old June 1st, 2011, 10:07 AM   #153
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I was pretty happy with how it packaged. Hopefully it still fits if I switch oil pans in the future. Although it seems that the truck pan isn't terrible how I have the motor positioned.

With moving the fuel tank from underneath to in the bed, there's a ton of room underneath for routing the exhaust.
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Old June 1st, 2011, 09:19 PM   #154
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what a great build. fantastic work as always. looking forward to more.
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 09:10 AM   #155
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Ordered up a mess of parts today, little misc stuff as I get all the plumbing done. Exhaust tube, more AN fittings to finish the vent line, some radiator mount stuff, a 1-5/16 to 1-9/16 hose transition with a tapped fitting for the steam lines, submersible fuel line, lower radiator hose....I love how I can order today from summit and its always on my doorstep tomorrow. Those guys rock.

Hopefully get more good progress done this weekend. Getting closer...

Need to figure out the power steering next and get that reconnected. Once thats done, I should be able to put the front clip back together.


Still debating mechanical vs electrical fan... I have a mech fan on there, but no shroud. I have multiple taurus fans and also a dual flex a lite fit specifically for the CJ, and also a progressive/pwm fan controller. The ECU is set up to control electric fans already.
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 09:25 AM   #156
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Jegs is like that too. I always order everything I can from one of those two because of the "free" one day shipping.

Everyone seems to have an opinion of the e-fan vs. mechanical fan. I personally like the ECU controlling two fans at different temps.
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 10:27 AM   #157
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I put in an order with Jegs, too, so hopefully those bits are here tomorrow.
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Old June 4th, 2011, 05:08 PM   #158
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Got the radaitor mounts done today. I have a 24 x 19 aluminum dual-pass which doesn't have mounting brackets.

I built the lower mount from a 24.25" wide piece of 1x1, and then a couple channels made from cutting a 2x3x0.120 tube in half. I have high temp rubber blocks which go between the radiator and the lower mounts to allow a little isolation.

The top are some little tabs that push down on the top to keep it in place. The flat pieces on the side keep it from moving side to side. There will be rubber isolation anywhere the steel brackets touch the radiator.

Tomorrow's task: finish the fuel tank lines and work on the fuel pump mount. I need to mock up a pressure line for the power steering and get that removed from the box and off to the hydraulic store this week as well....







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Old June 4th, 2011, 06:32 PM   #159
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Quote:
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I put in an order with Jegs, too, so hopefully those bits are here tomorrow.
Summit stuff and Jegs stuff ordered at lunchtime thursday. Summit stuff here on friday, Jegs coming on monday. Summit > Jegs.

heheh..

By the way, anyone looking at the fuel filter pic, its funny looking because i ground down the tub to bare steel, because the filter has a ground braid and tab. Then its all slathered in protectant grease. So thats why it looks odd...
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Old June 5th, 2011, 04:21 PM   #160
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Worked on the fuel pump today. Also got the rubber installed and the radiator bolted in, and a little work on the power steering.

Here's my fuel pump/pickup. Its the stock pump from the chevy truck that the motor came from. The whole thing flexes enough to go into the 4" hole in the fuel cell.



There are two walbro snowmobile fuel pickups in there. These close up when they suck air, they are in diagonal opposing corners of the tank. Since its long and narrow, I don't think I need more than these two. One has a bleeder hole, per their recommendations.



I welded little tabs on which keep the fuel pump from moving in any direction. There will be a hose clamp or two holding the pump onto the support. The T on the intake side is also captured and the steel line runs pretty much directly all the way to the pump intake, then the whole thing has a rubber line over it. This is mock up, since my proper line doesn't come until tomorrow. You need SAE J30R10 submersible line. Its about $25 a foot Regular line will break down inside the tank.



I need to add in the 3/8" line on the top for the outlet. I'm fresh out... I will solder it into the top plate, and reflare it for a -6AN tube nut. I used some bulkhead fittings from old fuel senders so I have two isolated terminals for the fuel pump power and ground (ground doesn't need to be isolated, and actually I have another ground wire to keep the pump bracket grounded).



Coming along... need to see it the stock steering pressure line can work or if I need one made...
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