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Old April 2nd, 2011, 08:22 PM   #121
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Finished up the gas pedal today. The cut & welding is done. Its not super pretty, which is kinda on purpose. Its a very solid weld (pedal is 1/4" thick, and over an inch of solid weld bead), but I didn't cut off all the extra and grind/shape it to look like it came that way like some people probably would. There's electronics in there, and the steel gets hot, so worked in small batches and didn't do any unnecessary metal work, since its behind the dash anyway.



You can also see the bracket I added for pulling the kickdown cable. It was a old mirror bracket that I sliced up.



In the 3rd pic, you can see the pedal installed in place. Behind/Above the pedal is the 3/4" square hole that I cut to run the kickdown cable through.



Beyond that, I got underneath and tore out all the old brake lines, fuel lines, muffler and tailpipe, parking brake cables & ground several brackets off the frame. Getting ready to start the crossmember.
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 08:09 AM   #122
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You're a genius on that kickdown cable idea. I like it. By the way, the electronics come off with 3 torx screws so you don't need to worry about heat.


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It was questioned if it was needed or not a few posts ago; so did you run both the stock sender and the aftermarket or just the aftermarket?
Missed this before. I don't have an electronic oil pressure sender. Just a traditional old school mechanical coming from the back of the block.
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 08:21 AM   #123
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thats the same idea im using on me detent cable to run my 700r4. great minds think alike i guess
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 11:23 AM   #124
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Originally Posted by chevotass View Post
thats the same idea im using on me detent cable to run my 700r4. great minds think alike i guess
Be really careful with your geometry on that. I have the correct drawing if you want it.

On the kickdown, its kind of on or off, but the pull angle/travel is critical on the 700R4.
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 11:25 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
You're a genius on that kickdown cable idea. I like it. By the way, the electronics come off with 3 torx screws so you don't need to.
Thanks for the pics of yours:) I managed to get a pretty good square hole in the firewall too. That little mirror bracket was justabout perfect once I narrowed it on the band saw. I love having buckets of bits of metal laying around. eventually one of them has to be the right shape...
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Old April 5th, 2011, 02:01 PM   #126
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thats the same idea im using on me detent cable to run my 700r4. great minds think alike i guess
Here's the correct geometry. Really try to match it as close as possible so you don't burn up the trans...

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Old April 6th, 2011, 08:38 AM   #127
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Thanks for the pics of yours:) I managed to get a pretty good square hole in the firewall too. That little mirror bracket was justabout perfect once I narrowed it on the band saw. I love having buckets of bits of metal laying around. eventually one of them has to be the right shape...
Just giving you a poke.
Looks a lot better than mine.
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Old April 6th, 2011, 04:43 PM   #128
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thanks alot for the geometry pic. man i think i might just go with the 4l60 than spend countless hours trying to get that right. i was thinking of it being alot easier than that.
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Old April 12th, 2011, 10:09 AM   #129
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Haven't updated in a bit... here's the latest stuff.

Started to work on the transmission crossmember. For now, just going to run a simple bar underneath, with tabs to mount the trans mount and t-case adapter mount (running a standard poly GM transmission mount under both. Hopefully that helps support the t-cases weight a little. This driveline came from a CJ5 and it snapped the tailhousing on the TH350. So this is a replacement trans.


Anyway, got some mounts fabbed to go on the angled section of the frame, and I'll run a piece of tube from rail to rail, mounted on poly bushings.



At this point, I started to get the trans adapter installed. This trans has a funny length & extra adapter to make it 'look' like a 700R4. So installed new studs, the first spacer/adapter, and then the D300 adapter. Everything in, and then I notice the spud shaft is sticking out too far. Needs to be about flush with the adapter end, its 2" too long... Grrr.




So, had to tear the trans out, its going back to get a regular 4x4 short output shaft. Hopefully this weekend.

So then I shifted gears and started working on wiring. I had an old summit racing complete vehicle wire harness thats been gathering dust for years in its box. So using that. Basically, every single wire on the Jeep is new. All the wire insulation has each wire function printed on the insulation.






The rear secion is all done, except for the fuel pump and fuel sender lines. All the lighting is soldered, heat shrinked, wrapped, loomed, and zip tied in place.

The underhood is basically done as well. I am missing some of my lights, so will solder in the pigtails once the new lights that I ordered arrive. I need to make a plate to cover the hole where the old fuse block was and punch a few grommets in it for the second fuse block for the engine harness. I'm going to mount the ECU on the firewall right where the VIN tags are.

So, thats about where I'm at now. Day of work got cut short to take care of my sick 2yr old Ordered a bunch more parts which will be showing up this week:

Parts to do all the pressure lines in the fuel system in -6AN hoses and 3/8 hard steel. Didn't like the other parts I had.

Adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes.

Green/blue/red dash lights to do the high beam, turn signals, and check engine.

4" Polk and 7.7" MTX Speakers (marine/waterproof), Sony 4 x 60w amp to run some tunes in the Jeep. The 4" will go in the dash, with waterproof baffles behind. I'll build some MDF boxes for the rear speakers to go in the rear corners. I'll waterproof them with some sealer and bedliner.

Got a dome light for the roll bar and another which will be in the rear cargo area. I'll see about making some LED boards to replace the bulbs in these.

Hopefully I can wrap up the wiring in the next week and then get the trans reinstalled. THat, and dropping the gas tank to build the fuel system will be the next tasks.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 10:18 AM   #130
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This week is no steps forward, 4 steps back

Found that both of my O2 sensors are wrong for my harness...

Found my alternator is wrong for my harness...

Found that I forgot the male AN fittings for my fuel lines...

Looking at starting the exhaust. This motor is 350hp, and *might* see nitrous for sand use at some point. So I really think I need 3" single, or 2.25 x 2" exhuast or so. I have a pile of 2.5" mandel bends and a brand new 2.5" flowmaster laying around. Hate to buy a whole new set of pipes and muffler(s).

Thinking that I could run the 2.25s to a 3" merge, then to a 3" muffler then run 2.5" back from there.

I suppose I could get ghetto and cut the 2.5" inlets/outlets off the flowmaster, enlage the hole in the case, and reweld 3" inlets on them. (LOL, or just sell it and buy a 3"..)


Ordered up a center console for it as well...
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Old April 14th, 2011, 10:44 AM   #131
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want to part with some of the 2.5" stuff. im working on the same thing. i need some mandrel bent 2.5 stuff to get from passenger side to drivers side of oil pan and then 2 into 1 at drivers side manifold. then im gonna up it to 3" single exhaust rest of the way.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 11:08 AM   #132
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i want to do all led's in my 2000 wrangler tj but i dont have the time to put her down for a few days while i do all led's (its my daily driver for now) but i wanted to rip out the gauges and put in all led...

edit: and just so you kow this will be one hell of a rig when you are done!!!! keep it up
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Old April 14th, 2011, 11:42 AM   #133
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want to part with some of the 2.5" stuff. im working on the same thing. i need some mandrel bent 2.5 stuff to get from passenger side to drivers side of oil pan and then 2 into 1 at drivers side manifold. then im gonna up it to 3" single exhaust rest of the way.
I will look through what I have, and also look at my spare MAF for you. What I have is an old 2.5" tubing set, which was a full exhaust for a honda civic autocrosser, that I never installed. There should be a few 90 degree bends, and some 45s.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 12:24 PM   #134
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sweet i could definetly use at least 1 90 degree piece. im leaving tonight for florida so PM me what you have and how much and ill get with you later next week when i get home.
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Old April 17th, 2011, 10:04 PM   #135
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Got a bunch of wiring done this weekend, mostly need to wire in the sub-harness for the engine. All lf the plugs for the lighting, wipers, heater, etc, have been soldered into the new harness. Got the shaft swapped in the transmission, so that'll go back in next weekend.

Got my center console, fits great. Removed the cupholders, and will put the shifters and trans temp gage there, position is just about perfect. Got my turn signal, high beam, and check engine indicators in the dash. Waiting my dash speakers to arrive so I can finish the dash and put it back in place.

Ordered up the rest of my fuel line bits, my new alternator, new O2 sensors, 2-1/4" mufflers, tubing, and U-bends to start on the exhaust. Decided its best to run two seperate pipes straight back. More flow than 3" single, so in case I get the bug to put nitrous on it later for the sand, I'll be good...

Should have some pics up sometime for the updates.
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Old April 20th, 2011, 07:10 AM   #136
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Got a bunch of wiring done this weekend, mostly need to wire in the sub-harness for the engine. All lf the plugs for the lighting, wipers, heater, etc, have been soldered into the new harness. Got the shaft swapped in the transmission, so that'll go back in next weekend.

Got my center console, fits great. Removed the cupholders, and will put the shifters and trans temp gage there, position is just about perfect. Got my turn signal, high beam, and check engine indicators in the dash. Waiting my dash speakers to arrive so I can finish the dash and put it back in place.

Ordered up the rest of my fuel line bits, my new alternator, new O2 sensors, 2-1/4" mufflers, tubing, and U-bends to start on the exhaust. Decided its best to run two seperate pipes straight back. More flow than 3" single, so in case I get the bug to put nitrous on it later for the sand, I'll be good...

Should have some pics up sometime for the updates.

You have room for that under there? I wanted to run duels on mine.....guys at the exhaust shop racked there brains trying to find a way. Ended up not happening.
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Old April 20th, 2011, 07:50 AM   #137
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You have room for that under there? I wanted to run duels on mine.....guys at the exhaust shop racked there brains trying to find a way. Ended up not happening.
So far it looks that way, yes. But I have leaf springs, so that makes a difference. The drivers side is clear, need to see what I'm doing for a front shaft, might need to be two piece.

Out back, its pretty clear. The length of the scrambler opens stuff up. I'll know in 2 weeks or so once I start cutting up tube and tacking it together...
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 10:26 AM   #138
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Tom got my transmission all straightened out with the normal 4x4 shaft. Reduces the trans length by about 2", I might be able to reuse my old rear driveshaft by using my 1980 shortie Dana 300.






Wiring is just about done. The fuse blocks are both mounted. Everything is bundled, wrapped, run through grommets, etc. The main block is 18 circuits, then 6 more for the engine in secondary block or inlines.





Dash is wired, should be able to put it in today. I just need to run a couple ground wires, and finish installing the speakers. Its a pain to put good speakers in a CJ dash. The mounted studs welded to the dash are for like 5" speakers, so modern speakers don't fit, and even if you cut holes to mount the speakers, any 2 or 3 way sits too tall and hits the metal of the dash. So I cut some 1/2" spacers to mount some good polk 4" 2-ways. I used foam weatherseal tape to seal the fronts and have the foam baffles to seal the back, so hopefully they will be reasonably protected from the rear. The polks are poly and rubber, so shouldn't be too affected getting wet from the front. The rears will be marine speakers.







Amp showed up, it will tuck in nicely into the center console where its protected from water and lockable. I have a pair of 10" polk subs and an ancient 140w kenwood mono sub amp that I might put in there, too.




heading back out to finish the speakers. Once the dash is back in, the steering, brakes, etc, can be finished up. Got my mufflers, tubing, O2 bungs, AN fuel lines, and stuff to get my radiator set up, those will be next up...
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 11:10 AM   #139
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My rear speakers arrived today, maybe a trip to home depot for some MDF is in order to start making speaker boxes...
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Old April 23rd, 2011, 05:03 PM   #140
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dash got wired in and put in place today....


pretty much everything but the headlight switch is new, even the glove box. Next up will be to install the steering column, and bundle the wires hanging down to go to the center console for the cb, trans temp gauge, amp, speakers.


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