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Old January 30th, 2011, 04:44 PM   #41
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Panel looks sweet!
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Old January 30th, 2011, 05:07 PM   #42
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Old January 30th, 2011, 05:49 PM   #43
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panel looks sweet!
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 06:41 PM   #44
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Did a little more work today since it was a snow day. Painted the dash and bolted the center panel into it. I need to paint the grab handle still. I have new heater cables and the rest of the dash switches, it'll be all together in another couple days.





Also got the HVAC box cleaned out and put back together. I found out the PM105 motor is the wrong one, I needed the PM102 motor, so I exchanged it today. The 102 is from the non A/C application, and has the correct shaft. The PM105 is with A/C, and has a slightly longer shaft, that would cause the squirrel cage to wedge against the housing.



Only thing left to do is enlarge the hole in the firewall to fit the larger motor...




Next up, I have the new (well, new from my stock pile) brake booster (I'll be swapping to a larger master cyl) and steering column. I need to see which of the 3 columns that I have is in the best condition, and then clean it up from there....
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 08:22 PM   #45
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 08:43 PM   #46
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Using some of the scrambler parts I got from you in here....
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Old February 7th, 2011, 10:21 AM   #47
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Would you mind sharing some info. about your harness please? I am wondering what each fuse and relay go to and the amp ratings the fuses are? Seems like that info. is missing on allot of diy write ups. We started my harness over the weekend.

thanks
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Old February 7th, 2011, 11:13 AM   #48
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For the engine, or the whole vehicle? I don't have either installed yet, but I can take more pics of either, if required, and some info.

I didn't get much done this week, I am prepping for a trip for work, and been working on getting my generator hooked up and some other house chores.

I dropped my trans off with Tranny Tom to get refurbished a bit. Once thats back in about 2 weeks, the engine will go in for good. I'm also waiting on my headers from sanderson. I want to get those bolted up before installing the motor.

I decided to get a new radiator, a universal aluminum one from Jegs. Its a 24x19 crossflow double pass, so that both inlet and outlet are on the passenger side. I am undetermined on the rest of the cooling system bits. I'm thinking maybe grab a few of the hose adapters from jags that run.

I did manage to get the firewall hole enlarged (from 2.75 to 3.5") for the new HVAC motor. I just need to make sure all the mice are out of the cowl duct and I will get that bolted in. Then I have a new booster and steering column also ready to go in.

I bought a 1980 Corvette master cyl, supposed to be the correct bolt in without needing pushrod changes on the booster. Its 1-1/8" bore, disc/disc, with outlets on the driver side to match the original configuration.
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Old February 7th, 2011, 11:16 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE View Post
Would you mind sharing some info. about your harness please? I am wondering what each fuse and relay go to and the amp ratings the fuses are? Seems like that info. is missing on allot of diy write ups. We started my harness over the weekend.

thanks
I'll be doing one soon too so the more detail the better. Sending it out is looking better and better though.......
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Old February 7th, 2011, 12:51 PM   #50
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Sorry about that. Just wondering about the engine harness.

things like
injectors
ecm
electric fan
etc.....

thanks
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Old February 7th, 2011, 01:58 PM   #51
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Gotcha. I will take more pictures when I get home, but here's what I can say now. I got my engine as a complete takeout from a truck, so I got it with the full harness (even had the battery cables, etc on it), DBW pedal, fuel pump module, etc.

Jim's performance did the work for me. The harness work was $350. I could have done it myself(I'm an automotive electrical engineer, working on GM projects after all.) but it'd have been a week or two of time, which I've got a busy job, a wife and 3 young kids, so it was a good deal for me to send it out.

So, he gets the ECU, harness, and DBW module and pedal. Talked on the phone about what I wanted, what I didn't.

He pares out what you don't want. For example, the downstream O2 sensors are for catalyst efficiency, don't need those.

All of the loom was replaced and retaped. Each connector was labelled where it goes. The injectors have their number written on the clip, so you know where to plug them back in.

There is a 4 fuse block. I will see if I can tell what they all go to. I believe its ECU constant power, ECU switched power, a switched power feed for the injectors, and one for the fuel pump. Two 15amp and two 20 amp fuses.
There is also a fuel pump relay added to the harness.


He also adds in the wiring and connector for the diagnostic connector that you can screw under your dash.

So, hookup wise you've got the following wires to hook up (again, this is kinda of the top of my head from memory, since I'm at work right now..)

Battery (constant battery)
Ignition (hot in start and run)
Ground (these are the existing grounds in the harness that screw to the block)

Fuel pump power (this is the power lead from the relay to power your pump)

Check Engine light (this is a pull down from the ECU. You connect this to one side of your MIL. The other side of the light should be connected to an ignition feed)

Starter connection (this should go to the energize terminal for your starter)

Tach output (this is a pull down from the ECU. So you connect this to your tach. Most aftermarket tachs don't have an internal pull-up, so you'll want to add a resistor from this line to ignition. 680 ohm 1/2 watt is typical value to use)

Fan output x 2 (There are two fan outputs, he can set them where you want them. They are low side outputs, so these will ground one side of your relay coil. The other side of the coil goes to ignition or battery, based on your preference).


So, thats a pretty simple hook up.
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Old February 7th, 2011, 02:32 PM   #52
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Ditto, that's the way mine was.
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Old February 7th, 2011, 08:34 PM   #53
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Does that cover what you needed for now, or more questions? Once I'm back from the war zone in Guadalajara, I'll be getting the wiring reconnected and take more pics....
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Old February 8th, 2011, 08:42 AM   #54
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Yes, thanks Jesus . Hopefully my harness will make some headway later this week.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:21 PM   #55
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Headers arrived today. Using Sanderson LS1 block huggers (ceramic coated). I like where they dump out and stay nice and tight. Helps a lot with the narrow CJ frame...

Header (pass side)



Engine mount clearance:



Block Hugging...

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Old February 8th, 2011, 05:40 PM   #56
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What are you going to run with for exhaust..... Y-pipe or dual with an H or x pipe?

I have block hugers on my mopar 360 and I hate how the exhaust bends under the oil pan into a Y.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 06:01 PM   #57
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Not sure. I'd like to run 2.25s out of each header to a single 3" muffler. Most people I see *do* run one forward and tucked around the oil pan. I have see a couple tuck under the bellhousing.

I guess I will see when its in there and I have a idea of the driveshaft clearance.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 06:55 PM   #58
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I have rear facing 2 1/2" dual exhaust all the way back.
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Old February 8th, 2011, 07:02 PM   #59
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My vote would be for dual 2.5" off each collector, then right where the two come together have a short section of 2.5" where they both flow to increase the velocities and then about 3-6" after the merge, open up to a single 3" and run the muffler towards the front of the remaining system. Should be quiet and have little drone but when in the higher RPM's it should scavenge nicely.

But that's what I did on mine with some small variations.... may or may not be worth a shit but there are more opinions out there than experts...
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Old February 8th, 2011, 07:50 PM   #60
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Well, I'll see what happens once its in place. Shame...have a brand new 2.5 flowmaster 40 series but I would prefer single exhaust.....
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