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Old January 10th, 2011, 08:59 AM   #1
Skooter_Built
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Towing with a modified Cummins

Im wondering if anyone here tows with a modified cummins engine. Modified as in bigger turbo('s), bigger injectors, engine upgrades... Im wondering what is the reliable limit as in how much power you can make Vs. EGT's and towing weight.

The goal would be to make an honest 500hp & 1000 ft. lb. torque (I want more then stock/stock modified) at the wheels and tow a 40ft trailer, most likely enclosed.

Another question is 12v or 24v. I like the electronics and tuning of a 24v along with the adjustibility on the fly but the simplicity of a 12v as the cummins will be swaped into a different vehicle.

Im just asking questions and not swaping a different engine into my Super Duty.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 09:02 AM   #2
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when?
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Old January 10th, 2011, 09:07 AM   #3
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Do you really want another project in your barn Don't encourage me
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Old January 10th, 2011, 09:11 AM   #4
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i have over 500 horse in my truck. i run much larger injectors then stock. i cruise around 850. when im into it i will see around 1100 when i stomp it hard for a few seconds. ive towed some pretty big loads with mine and it doesnt bat an eye at it.


you can make as much power as youd like but dont get in a hurry to get the trailer rolling and the egt's wont be crazy high. if you kick it hard it will be a whole another story. the big thing to do is get some studs in the head if you are going to go with a bigger turbo and injectors.

i would think about a cam as well.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 02:31 PM   #5
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The 500 mark is a good # for a driver. If you get to much past that, they get a little finicky and not as user friendly to tow with. You planning on twins or single?

12v or 24, lots of people disagree on this, but use what you want, they are both good. Just stay away from 53 blocks and realize the vp44's go bad if someone once ran them with a bad lift pump.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 04:38 PM   #6
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there is 2 brothers from chesaning that daily drive and tow there cummins.(a 98 and a 04 i believe)the one is a twin turbo stupid built motor over 1200 hp.the other brother has just a little less and tows a big ass trailer for work everyday.
the black one is at the dunes alot smoking everything.he has a dyno come to his house 2 times a year and they do runs there.best running cummins i have seen.has a shit ton of money into it.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 04:51 PM   #7
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Im 325hp at the rear wheels according to the PO. 12v. Mine tows great and never even thinks about getting hot. In the near future im doing some more mods. A super b turbo in the next year along with injectors. Hoping to be around 450 at the rear wheels. I dont think your goals are outa reach at all. IMO a 12v is the easiest and cheapest way to go. Tuning is dirt simple.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 05:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE View Post
The 500 mark is a good # for a driver. If you get to much past that, they get a little finicky and not as user friendly to tow with. You planning on twins or single?

12v or 24, lots of people disagree on this, but use what you want, they are both good. Just stay away from 53 blocks and realize the vp44's go bad if someone once ran them with a bad lift pump.
For the fun and efficiency factor Id wanna do twins, with a different cam, bigger sticks... plus add in everything needed to support the power like head studs, water/meth injection, bigger IC.

I think for what I "plan" on building down the road for ease of convinence, I think the drivetrain will consist of a 12v, NV4500 trans, Dodge t-case, late model Dodge dually front axle and a dana 80/14bolt rear.

My goal is to build a very unique rig for 1/2 the price of a new truck.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 08:01 AM   #9
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good goal scoots. the 53 block isnt that big of deal really. theres millions of them on the road daily. yes the vp pumps do fail but thats part of live. a cp3 can fail as well but its not as common. everything fails. the vp44 are known to fail as the lift pumps were weak and no one runs a fuel pressure gauge. its a must in these trucks. i wouldnt worry to much about getting a 53 block. just make sure it holds water and doesnt leak. chec out cummins forum. alot of people build 53 blocks with no issues.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 10:15 AM   #10
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good goal scoots. the 53 block isnt that big of deal really. theres millions of them on the road daily. yes the vp pumps do fail but thats part of live. a cp3 can fail as well but its not as common. everything fails. the vp44 are known to fail as the lift pumps were weak and no one runs a fuel pressure gauge. its a must in these trucks. i wouldnt worry to much about getting a 53 block. just make sure it holds water and doesnt leak. chec out cummins forum. alot of people build 53 blocks with no issues.
Good info, ya Im hoping I can start collecting parts & vehicles come this fall. I need to graduate college, find a job and a place to live before I can start

It might be some what hillbilly but here is an example of what Im thinking

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Old January 11th, 2011, 02:44 PM   #11
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Just buy a topkick or other medium duty truck, learn what makes them tick, and then turn the knobs a little bit here and there and you've met your goal without all of the BS.

I don't see why you would even consider going through all of that when a 4-10 year old 3/4-1 ton truck will do all of that, have A/C, fit in a garage, not be a slapped together POS and most of all, be finished and drivable in only 1-2 years instead of 6-8 like all of your other projects..... It would take a fraction of the time and about the same investment.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 03:07 PM   #12
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Old January 11th, 2011, 03:10 PM   #13
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gonna need 500 hp to get that thing to move itself
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Old January 11th, 2011, 03:11 PM   #14
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Hmmmmmm

...like you are going to finish the TJ, much less the SD!!


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Old January 11th, 2011, 07:56 PM   #15
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good goal scoots. the 53 block isnt that big of deal really. theres millions of them on the road daily. yes the vp pumps do fail but thats part of live. a cp3 can fail as well but its not as common. everything fails. the vp44 are known to fail as the lift pumps were weak and no one runs a fuel pressure gauge. its a must in these trucks. i wouldnt worry to much about getting a 53 block. just make sure it holds water and doesnt leak. chec out cummins forum. alot of people build 53 blocks with no issues.
53 blocks are junk. If you buying just a motor dont buy one. The ones on the road are waiting to fail. It is a bad casting, not a simple flaw. They can be fixed but if your going to be building something reliable why not avoid it all together. But if your going 12v 99% are not a 53. As the 53 was put in trucks starting in mid year 98.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 09:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
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53 blocks are junk. If you buying just a motor dont buy one. The ones on the road are waiting to fail. It is a bad casting, not a simple flaw. They can be fixed but if your going to be building something reliable why not avoid it all together. But if your going 12v 99% are not a 53. As the 53 was put in trucks starting in mid year 98.
untrue...plenty of 53 blocks out there pushing big HP#s...you only hear about the ones that fail....only way to tell is to pull a freeze plug and measure the water jacket if you have the better casting.I had a 53 block and never worried about it...pushed some HP and towed heavy with it without problems.From what I read on TDR its est. about 1/1000 that crack.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 09:15 PM   #17
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IMO your gonna need a beefier trans than a NV4500. they aren't exactly the strongest tranny for high torque numbers. if you want a stick i'd look into getting a SAE#2 transmission. more expensive but you can run 18 wheeler power numbers and not experience failures.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 09:18 PM   #18
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colin i dont know if its just you stuck in the 12v kick as i seen a few arguements with other people on it. i agree with ron 100 percent on this. there are tons of these trucks out there pushing huge numbers with no problems. i bet there atleast 20 on here with 53 blocks with no problems. i know of several 53 blocks with no problems. the 12v have alot of issues with the killer dowel pin. care to talk about that. thats a 12v issue thats about the same as the 53 block. its not a HUGE DEAL like you tend to make out the 53 blocks to be. how many people do you know with a 53 block and have issues?
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Old January 11th, 2011, 09:19 PM   #19
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IMO your gonna need a beefier trans than a NV4500. they aren't exactly the strongest tranny for high torque numbers. if you want a stick i'd look into getting a SAE#2 transmission. more expensive but you can run 18 wheeler power numbers and not experience failures.
please dont talk about something you dont know dick wad. im sure your the last person scoots would take advice from you fuckin hillrod. clean your yard!
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Old January 12th, 2011, 09:35 AM   #20
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sorry it's a different motor, but my d-max dyno'd []b518/1040[/b] in the hot setting. I have a milder tune that I use for towing so it's safer. biggest reason I don't tow with the hot setting is amount of fuel that is used.

with 500+ at the rear wheels (all stock internals and stock turbo), it'll be easy to get the EGTs out of control. I tow a 32' GN with a camper and my rig. incl d-max, I weigh in around 22,500#

around here in the flatlands, you can easily tow with hotter tunes, but no way I would want to do that when going out west. those grades on the way to Moab are tough and my tow tune was perfect for them.

figured I would give you some real world info, just not sure if the cummins is that much different than the d-max when adding power and EGTs

the aftermarket turbo would help quite a bit with the EGTs though

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