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Old December 30th, 2010, 11:43 AM   #1
serpentz28
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Default 89 k5 blazer...gauge/idle fuse blowing

Here's the dealio... I keep popping the gauge/idle fuse... Tricky part...if I hold down the brake pedal... The gauges work, as soon a I let off, pops the fuse...even better...i can only start my truck if the brake pedal is down... Never had to do this before, unless I hold brake pedal down there is no power, when brake pedal us pushed everything works fine :) any ideas?

update: This is so people dont have to try and search this whole thread for the answer :D

Turns out after tracing every wire in my truck, it was NOT a wire at all that was causing a ground out. It was the cruise control switch on the brake pedal. The inner switch was broken and making permanant contact (which its NOT designed to do) and causing some sort of hot force feed and popping my fuse, at the same time, it messes with your fuel injection, your temp sensor and fuel pump. I hope that this helps some one else out in the future instead of spending DAYS trying to find a stupid, simple solution :D Thanks for all the help GL4wheelers!!! You guys are awesome for all the ideas you had! In trying to find this problem, I was able to find problems in the making and fix them before I decided a sawsall and torch to my Blazer :D

Last edited by serpentz28; January 17th, 2011 at 02:42 PM. Reason: update
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Old December 30th, 2010, 12:30 PM   #2
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sounds like some serious wireing issues here.

start at the brake light switch follow the wires back to the fuse box, check all the connections on the way, look for corrosion, tears in the insulation on the wireing, butt connectors, or anything else that isn't supposed to be there.

if you don't find anythign there i'd also check trailer wireing.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 12:53 PM   #3
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KK, sounds like a good start! Thanks skife!
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Old December 30th, 2010, 12:57 PM   #4
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As well...now that I am thinking about it, my dash lights stopped working, but the fuse wasnt blown BUT if I hit the brakes...my dash lights would come on...all the time, not just when the headlight switch was pulled... after a while the fuse popped and I replaced it and everything worked fine, I pulled the tail light covers off the check the grounds, the passenger side was ugly, cleaned it and replaced the end, the drivers side the screw heads are rotted out, so tonight I am going to tap them out and check the inside of that... As well... I dont know if there is a trailer light hookup on it...I havent really checked, but i will try and locate it (just bought this not too long ago) thank you for the help!!
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Old December 30th, 2010, 01:15 PM   #5
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A real long shot, but it sounds like the underdash bracket is flexing rubbing wires. Maybe something was wired in the ignition switch (Remote starter?) and that is rubbing against the bracket.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 02:13 PM   #6
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Do you have an aftermarket stereo? If so who installed it and how? Does it use the proper harness or was it hacked into the electrical system? Reason I am asking is because I bought a car like that in the past where some kid hacked everything up installing his stereo and had problems similar to yours.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 03:40 PM   #7
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There was one in there but its just tied off wires now, but il check that s well, thanks!
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Old December 31st, 2010, 10:23 AM   #8
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sooo... in my adventures of searching for the magical broken wire...i found this...amongst many other things...


This was stuffed on top of the gas tank, the wires...all corroded and broken... The light connector, shot, tapped closed as well I found an old brake controller wire running in the frame rail... So tonight I will be rewiring the rear lights because I also found that right before the gas tank...ALL of the wires are shot, including the tailgate wires. *sigh* But I dont think this will cure my problem with the gauge/idle fuse blowing. I can audibly hear something sizzle then the fuse pops, could that be the fuse itself sizzling??? As well the wires running to the fuel pump/sending unit are good, they are clean with no visible breaks or corrosion. I checked that temp sensor, thats in working order... I have NOT checked the oil pressure switch yet...thats tonights step after work.
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Old December 31st, 2010, 01:39 PM   #9
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scotch locks my fav $$$$$. they made me so much money at the dealer :)
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Old January 2nd, 2011, 02:19 AM   #10
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So...I rewired the tail lights, sending unit wires, and tore the dash apart, pulled the gauge cluster and havent found any bare wires. I got desperate...and i dont EVER recommend this to anyone (lol) i put a jumper in that fuse to see if i could heat the line up ( i had four guys watching every inch of the blazer) and still got NOTHING. I melted the jumper... rofl, does any one else have any ideas?? I am lost and at a stand still for this...
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Old January 2nd, 2011, 08:39 AM   #11
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If you can hear the sizzle, the problem is in the cab (that sound is coming from your short to ground). You really need to check the wiring harness behind the dash, starting near the brake pedal.
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Old January 2nd, 2011, 11:28 AM   #12
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I will pull it back apart today and recheck it, I checked allll of the wires underneath the dash. Like I said before, if i hold the brake pedal down... just enough for the lights to come one, the fuse wont blow, but as soon as the lights go off for the brakes itll pop. Also, it pops immediately after the fuel pump kicks off (if not holding brakes). But ill tear back into it, its prolly something stupid that I keep over looking, thanks for the help so far!! And the sizzling is the fuze right before it pops :D Found that out this morning as well!
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Old January 2nd, 2011, 12:08 PM   #13
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you say its poop when the fuel pump runs? you sound like you have a ground issue at the tank where the pump hooks up. it maybe the system is hunting for a ground and back feeding through a near by wire.
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Old January 2nd, 2011, 06:30 PM   #14
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Brand new wires to sending unit, having a helluva time finding oil sensor wire. At this point beyond lost
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Old January 4th, 2011, 02:43 PM   #15
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So, I re-did all the ground wires on the Blazer and was actually able to get the truck to keep the fuse from blowing! Or so I thought, now if I let the truck idle, the fuse will not blow, when I take off, I can make it roughly 100 yards down the road the fuse will blow. Idle all day, but running wont go very far. Does this narrow it down a little? Am I looking at an alternator issue now? Possibly fuel injector issue (tbi)? Any ideas? Thanks!!
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Old January 4th, 2011, 10:19 PM   #16
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you missed something. the frame to body ground or the engine to frame ground might be cooked. very high resistance or just not there.

there's also two grounds on the back of the heads and one by the T stat housing, they all feed the main harness for the computer and gauges. the engine to frame one is on the lower right front of the engine, it can be anywhere where you can reach solid metal.
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Old January 5th, 2011, 08:11 PM   #17
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How do you "cook" a ground wire? thanks for the info! I will check em tonight!
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Old January 5th, 2011, 08:20 PM   #18
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check the wiring where it wraps around the steering shaft and the steering column mount bracket. lots of sharp edges right there and the factory harness is mostly tape wrapped under the dash. hope that leads you to your short.
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Old January 5th, 2011, 09:04 PM   #19
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Sounds like an alternator issue, have it checked, there are non-serviceable parts inside that go bad.
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Old January 6th, 2011, 02:06 AM   #20
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wiring at shaft is good, everything looks good, tested all of the wires, alternator is brand new, however doesnt mean it isnt junk already :D I can take it to autovalue in town and have them check it out :D Thanks for the suggestions everyone, keep em coming!!!! :D Beer for all of you!@!
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