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Old January 7th, 2011, 04:00 AM   #1
Paintballpsyco236
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Default Small Ford 8.8 brake line problem...

Hello all, I am finishing up the conversion on my 8.8 for my 88 XJ and I ran into a bit of an issue. I have done the leaf spring perches, and the shock mounts and am finishing up the brake line mounts tomorrow before I need to bring the welder back (one bolt left to do). What I ended up doing is making a couple small tabs to mount the lines on. I was planning to use 2 passenger side lines, and then hardline from those to the t-block of a wrangler hose bolted to the axle. After I did the shock mounts, I had to change the location of the driers side mount and weld it to the spring perch. Not a problem, the line is a bit tighter than I would have liked, but it will be fine. On the passenger side, since I had the extra room I decided to weld the mount tab to the axle tube. I used the old passenger side soft line for mock up on both sides and the length was fine. No my issue is this:

When I put the new line on the passenger side mount, the line is very tight and I know there is enough slack for the line to move safely. I had a few questions about a possible solution.

- Is there another kind of Ford softline I could use that is a bit longer and still the same fittings on both ends?
- Is there a line from something else I could use that would have the same hardline fitting and would be a bit longer?
- Towards the front of the caliper, where the soft line bolts to the caliper there is a tab that prevents the brake line from moving, would it be possible to just grind that off and rotate the line 90 degrees? (that would solve my shortness issue)

Any other ideas or suggestions?

I can get some pictures tomorrow if that might help to explain a bit more what I am talking about.
Thanks for any help that you can provide. I have fallen quite a bit behind on this project and I really need to get this rear axle done so I can move onto the other stuff.

Thanks again, I hope to hear back soon,

Paint
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Old January 7th, 2011, 07:20 AM   #2
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I usually just go to the motor parts and ask for a longer line.

If you're really in a bind you may be able to buy a coupler and put 2 together.

I would worry about grinding that tab off to rotate the line. If that tab was removed i could see the line twisting and unsealing. As long as it would stay sealed i think you would be ok.
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Old January 7th, 2011, 07:32 AM   #3
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Why can't you simply cut and reweld your tab?
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Old January 7th, 2011, 03:50 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Quiefinator View Post
I usually just go to the motor parts and ask for a longer line.

If you're really in a bind you may be able to buy a coupler and put 2 together.

I would worry about grinding that tab off to rotate the line. If that tab was removed i could see the line twisting and unsealing. As long as it would stay sealed i think you would be ok.
Where is motor parts? Or what is it rather? I am not really in a bind, the rig is in the garage and I have awhile before I really have to worry about even having the lines on. I just wanted to get it done while I am down there. The brake line itself is made to only go on the one way, otherwise I would just rotate that. The best options I can think of are either a longer line, or a different line that doesn't have the flat edge like that...

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Why can't you simply cut and reweld your tab?
I could do that, but I have to bring the welder back today (in fact I wanted to leave like 30 mins ago to do so, I have some other errands to run and already will not get to the bank in time lol)

The only other issue with that is there really isn't enough room where I have the tube. The tab any more to the right (closer to the line) would hit the u-bolt so... Also, I really welded the tab on so it wouldn't go anywhere. MAJOR over kill, but I know it's not moving lol. So it would take a lot of grinding to get the tab back off lol.

Thanks for the help all,

Paint
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Old January 9th, 2011, 12:50 AM   #5
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Old January 9th, 2011, 08:44 AM   #6
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If you have lost access to your welder than just make a bolt on tab. Here is a picture from when I did my swap to show you how the tabs on my hoses just bolt up to a bracket off the spring perch.

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Old January 10th, 2011, 12:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by jonzer12 View Post
If you have lost access to your welder than just make a bolt on tab. Here is a picture from when I did my swap to show you how the tabs on my hoses just bolt up to a bracket off the spring perch.

What I was thinking about is making a "extension" tab to run next to the tab I welded. I hate to add one more failure point, but that would be the easiest solution right now. I had forgotten until tonight, a friend of mine works for Ford and might have some ideas for another line for me. I will give him a call tomorrow and see what he says. If I could just turn the line 90* clockwise, then it would be fine. I was going to try to take a picture but my camera wouldn't turn on lol, too cold. I am kind of wishing now that I had just welded the tab to the spring perch like I did on the drivers side lol. The drivers side line is still a tad tight, but it will be fine.

I do have a welder, but it is just a small flux core 90a mig welder. I am planning to try it out on the mainline bolt that I still have to weld, and if it welds that with out an issue then I will just grind all the weld off the tab and move it over... Will take quite a bit of time to grind all that off (I went WAY WAY overkill lol) but that would probably be the best option, to just move it onto the spring perch, or at least more over on the axle tube.


Thanks again for the info. Anyone have any ideas as to an alternate brake line I could use though? Would be another good excuse to get new brake line lol.

Thanks again,

Paint
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Old January 11th, 2011, 04:13 AM   #8
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I managed to get a couple of pics tonight in the garage with my phone, not the greatest quality due to lack of light and that it is a blackberry, but here is where I am at so far...

Drivers side is good to go:



The bolt above the vent line there is where I am mounting the YJ rear main hose. Managed to get my little flux core mig welder to do it lol. I still need to grind the weld smooth, and grind some more of the slag off but all things considered, once I sort out the passenger side issue, the axle is ready to remount. Well, that and the new diff cover :) And of course fill it and do the hardlines, but I think I am going to wait till it is on the Jeep for that. I need to get the thing off the jack stands and start on other stuff. WAY to far behind on this... Sorry for rambling like this... lol


Passenger side issue:

You can see the bend in the line at the caliper, that is using the old line that I originally used for mock up. When I put the new line on there, that line/bend was extremely tight on that side of the axle. If I can replace it with another standard line, I would much rather just do that. Or if there was some kind of other Ford line I could use there that would let me rotate it. If I could just rotate that caliper mount 90* clockwise though I would be fine.



Light got in the way here, but I moved the spring plate and u-bolts to show you all the spring perch better. If the concensus is to just move the mount, I can probably do it with the little mig welder I have I guess. It did manage to do the main line bolt without too much trouble so I can give it a shot I guess... I would still rather keep the mount where I have it though, a bit more tucked out of the way there. Oh, and before I get this suggestion, Yes I could move it more to the right, but the hose started to rub against the u-bolt, so I opted to move it just out of reach from that...


Thanks again for the help and info.
Paint

P.S. Only 3 other people have seen these pictures, non of my other friends (who I know aren't on here anyways) have seen them so I figure it is ok to post these here...

Out with the old:


In with the new:

Last edited by Paintballpsyco236; January 11th, 2011 at 04:47 AM.
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Old January 13th, 2011, 04:56 AM   #9
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Well, I guess the HF welder is much worse than I thought lol. I was grinding down the weld around the mainline bolt today, and I wanted to make sure the bolt would still be strong, so I hit it a few times with a rubber mallet. Well, after a couple soft hits, the whole bolt popped off with the weld... I figured I might have just taken off too much weld, so I cleaned up both axle and bolt, re-welded it to the tube and made a large weld puddle, or at least what I thought would help it penetrate the tube more, and spent a good chunk of time welding this thing again. I also spent a long time carefully grinding and tapering the weld bead down so as to not take too much off this time... Well, decided to test it again, and low and behold, it broke off again. The entire bolt and bead just breaks off...

This really sucks as I decided to just give in earlier today and move the passenger side line mount to the spring perch like I did the drivers side. I had figured, it held the bolt ok, it should be able to do the tab... Well man was I wrong lol. I guess my little 90a flux core just doesn't spit out enough heat for this kind of stuff...

The welder I had been using will not be available again until February, and I really want this axle back under my Jeep so I can do other stuff till them. Guess I will either have to bring it to my buddy's house and use his welder, or talk my other friends neighbor, maybe I can get in and use his for a bit...

Anyone happen to have a mig welder they might want to sell? Please pm me if so. Thanks again to all.

Paint


P. S. I have not been able to find any kind of a good write-up for doing the brake lines on an 8.8 swap, thinking maybe I will make a writeup for this and post it here... Any thoughts?
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Old January 13th, 2011, 09:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paintballpsyco236 View Post
Well, I guess the HF welder is much worse than I thought lol. I was grinding down the weld around the mainline bolt today, and I wanted to make sure the bolt would still be strong, so I hit it a few times with a rubber mallet. Well, after a couple soft hits, the whole bolt popped off with the weld... I figured I might have just taken off too much weld, so I cleaned up both axle and bolt, re-welded it to the tube and made a large weld puddle, or at least what I thought would help it penetrate the tube more, and spent a good chunk of time welding this thing again. I also spent a long time carefully grinding and tapering the weld bead down so as to not take too much off this time... Well, decided to test it again, and low and behold, it broke off again. The entire bolt and bead just breaks off...
Because of the thickness of the axle tube, it will dissipate heat much faster than the metal you're welding to it. You'll need a welder than can supply enough current or you could try pre-heating the axle tube with a torch.

Quote:
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P. S. I have not been able to find any kind of a good write-up for doing the brake lines on an 8.8 swap, thinking maybe I will make a writeup for this and post it here... Any thoughts?
There shouldn't need to be a write-up. Put the brake line where it fits the best. The problem was that you set it up with a brake line that you weren't going to actually use.
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Old January 13th, 2011, 08:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeperz Creeperz View Post
Because of the thickness of the axle tube, it will dissipate heat much faster than the metal you're welding to it. You'll need a welder than can supply enough current or you could try pre-heating the axle tube with a torch.

There shouldn't need to be a write-up. Put the brake line where it fits the best. The problem was that you set it up with a brake line that you weren't going to actually use.
I did find that out after the second time I tried the bolt. I thought I might be able to make it work if I let the puddle build up long enough. I guess not... The torch I presently would not work. I did find a friend of mine locally, his welder is powerful enough and he is going to let me use it, but I can't pick it up till Monday night so...

I just meant a write up for others, to at least give them an idea for it. I have yet to see anything written up for brake line mounting on an 8.8 swap. That was my own fault regardless, I just wish I would have thought it through a bit more before I welded the tab on...

Thanks again,

Paint
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