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Old December 28th, 2010, 02:05 PM   #21
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I had considered doubles as well, early on....just hard to back em up.

Yeah you mentioned all my hangups on the dually. Legality is tough as most of these toy haulers are over the rating of the trucks that haul them. Actually most slide in pick up campers are not actually legal as most are over the payload capacity if over 9 foot. I would take a 20,000 lb. fifth wheel (properly loaded) over a 2,000 lb. truck camper.....mine was a scary top heavy handful all the time.
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Old December 28th, 2010, 02:23 PM   #22
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The axles are the 7500# (or 7000# I don't recall exactly). The Tires are 16" Michelin Load E. I don't recall all the other specifics from it, but if you need more info I can dig it up.

I have not had any issues with it yet, but we try to keep the load light when we are hauling the jeep. The farthest trip we have had with it has been to the bridge and back... with lots of trips to Silver Lake and Harrison.

We are headed out West in April, but we will not be taking the trailer as I am not sure how well the rig will preform out in the mountains.
Rob,
I didn't know you weren't taking the toy hauler out west. I don't understand why. After all, you'll pull better than mine.
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Old December 28th, 2010, 02:51 PM   #23
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Rob,
I didn't know you weren't taking the toy hauler out west. I don't understand why. After all, you'll pull better than mine.
Hey Jim,

I really am not sure how my truck will handle out in the mountains with that sort of load... it seems to handle pretty good throughout Michigan, but its flat here. If I had the cash for some mods to the truck then I might attempt it.

Also, my co-pilot is going to be flying out to Grand Junction, Co as she has a wedding the weekend that I am going out. The cost for a cabin wasn't much more then a campsite, and by the time I figured in fuel I think that it will be cheaper to haul it on the flatbed.

I can't wait for Moab though - its going to be a blast!
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Old December 28th, 2010, 05:53 PM   #24
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how'd you get a power wagon with a cummins ?
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Old December 28th, 2010, 06:24 PM   #25
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If you are referring to mine, it's not a power wagon....just power wagon wheels. Actually I am running H2's and 315's on it right now.

Last edited by cruiserdar; December 29th, 2010 at 06:21 AM.
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Old December 29th, 2010, 07:35 AM   #26
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have any old stuff from the previous setup? i need a rooftop a/c unit and a side entry door
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Old December 29th, 2010, 08:04 AM   #27
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Hey Nick. No, I tried to keep the entire trailer, but there was no meeting them in the middle...they wanted to give me close to nothing to keep the old one, or more than I had into it to take it....it was an easy choice.....I am wishing I had kept the AC unit for myself, as this new trailer has a 50 amp service and generator setup to run multiple AC's, I did swap on 3 3500 lb. axles and junk tires/wheels in place of the 6 k's axles and wheels / fresh tires before I let it go to scrap.

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Old December 29th, 2010, 08:02 PM   #28
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It's never going to work, lol.

















you suck












nice rig!


I've got nothing useful for you, besides that I added the 2nd electric motor to my landing gear and it lifts the camper no problem now, and that was without the jeep on.

Oh ya, as for the DRW vs SRW. I have a DRW, but out of want not need. IMO the dually does about nothing for you, you don't get any more payload, no more trailer towing capacity, PITA to park, they get worse mileage because of more rubber on the road and usually higher gears, all you get is more tires to replace and some more stability......but none of that bothers me, I simply wanted a dually always liked them. (In the Fords even going to an F450/550 you don't get much more payload or towing capacity...at least in my year of truck). Having 6 tires to help with braking isn't going to make a difference if you're running triple axles with 2x12 drums on all 3, I have a "tune" for a TQ lockup to slow me down better, Dar has the best setup with the manual and Jake brake, he'll bring his rig to a stop better than most others on the road, he told me the other week he's just now at over 100k replacing his stock brakes. Unless you can afford a 2010+ truck you won't find anything non-commercial rated to tow these big campers/toy haulers, we're talking trucks/trailers that weigh in at/or over 26000lbs combined.....you'd be amazed how many trucks/trailers going down the road weigh in that high, and above. I was in a local trailer shop a few weeks back, they were replacing a guys gooseneck because he keeps ripping it out (3 times) because he's hauling 35k worth of trailer alone.

Last edited by akozman; December 29th, 2010 at 08:14 PM.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 07:53 AM   #29
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Hey Andrew, I forgot to ask, did you still use the original shaft that connected the jacks as well or did you have to remove that to mount the new motor?

Here is a pic of the Land cruiser inside. The Tj actually fits under the overhanging cabinets, and is far shorter, so it fits easily. Bonus, I had way more room than I was expecting on both and will leave the door to the garage alone as I can ratchet it down from the sides, I thought the man door was the only way I was going to be able to reach the tie downs. BTW check out the way cool KC daylighters that came stock on all the raptors for years, I actually have purchased new LED rv yard lights that I will be replacing them with, as well as LED's for the inside lights as well so I can go longer without using the Genny.
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Last edited by cruiserdar; December 30th, 2010 at 07:59 AM.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 08:39 AM   #30
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Looks great Dar. Love the KC's.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 08:55 AM   #31
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Pull one of those tall trailers in a side wind with SRW sometime and tell me how you like it.
Towed a 24' enclosed tag-a-long from South Dakota to Mich in a 45-50 mph south wind with a e rated tire. Had to stop in Wisconsin to replace the rear truck tires because it wanted to push the rig down the road at an angle. Had 2k in the Goodyear Workhorse tires when I left home.
Maybe I am not compairing apples due to yours being 5th wheel, But that taught me a big less on the benefits of DRW.
Take it for what it is worth.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 10:44 AM   #32
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Yeah those bumper pulls can be a handfull...I had a buddy that went from 32 bumper tow to a 40 ft goose behind a gmc srw...completely safer and more driveable. When we finished it out with a living quarters, and lots of storage tanks it got heavier than what the tires were rated for. He started looking for 19.5" tires and Ricksons, cause he did not want to drive a dually around all the time. Problem with those is the tires SUCK for wet / snow traction and ride quality, not to mention the cost. He finally got a smaller DD and a Volvo HDT.

I pulled mine back from Rhode Island in some pretty sustained 35-40 mph winds, I thought it handled great, especially for being 13 feet tall.

I am with Koz on the dually thing...we had dually's, srw, and a Singled Mack hauling all different configurations of built Big horse trailers, stock trailers, goose grain dumps, and flatbeds. We pretty much came to the same conclusions as Andrew...for the most part the cons outweigh the pro's. These were trucks that were hauling something very heavy 95% of the time. The dually's have a little better floatation when you have 30K of grain or hay a goose neck in a soft field, but if you do not have front wheel drive it will not get around as good as a singled 3/4 ton pu. Transmissions are actually the weak link in farm trucks, always pulling way too much wt. at slow speeds and high tranny temps.

If I find myself looking for more truck, I will move right past dually Pickups, and MDT's (unless I trip over a cheap 4 door MDT) and go right to a HDT.

Last edited by cruiserdar; January 14th, 2011 at 07:06 AM.
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Old December 30th, 2010, 01:55 PM   #33
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Looks awesome Dar!! I may have to swing over to check it out...
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Old December 30th, 2010, 07:49 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserdar View Post
Hey Andrew, I forgot to ask, did you still use the original shaft that connected the jacks as well or did you have to remove that to mount the new motor?
You should be able to just grind the round original shaft to be "D" shaped, but I didn't measure hole locations....worse case make a new shaft on the lathe, I don't think it's hardened steel, I got a little grinder happy deburring the other shaft and in a milisecond ate thru the shaft a good ways with a flapper wheel.

That's a lot if shaft talk, time to change subjects.
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 08:51 PM   #35
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Default Heavy Duty Hitch

Well I have been looking for a heavier 5th wheel plate since I will be over the 16K rating on the reese hitch I have been using for the past several years. I started watching craigslist for a 18 or 20K hitch, and and came across this Reese Signature 24K hitch with 4 way pivoting ability. The guy was selling it super cheap as no one has the under the bed system seperately for this hitch. In fact, Reese only rates their under the bed rails to 20K, if you need more than that they reccomend custom rails be built.....

The Signature series uses under the bed rails and the hitch drops down from the top and then uses cam locks to attach it to the truck instead of pins like the normal rail systems. Since I already had an under the rail setup that I had built similar to the B&W style, and I did not want to add any more holes in my bed, I built an intermediate adapter plate. I removed the cams and used the predrilled holes in the hitch legs. The the hitch bolts to the plate with 4, 5/8" grade 8 bolts. The intermediate plate has a 2" square solid shaft that drops into the center vertical reciever in the truck bed and is pinned with a high test 5/8" pin, and then has four grade 8 bolts on the outer edges to add strength and keep it from wiggling like a B&W. Those bolts go through the hitch frame to weldnuts inside the hitch subframe.

The entire assembly weighs about 200 lbs. but I ussually use the forks on my loader to lift my hitch in and out anyway, so the extra weight is not a big deal and the entire thing takes less than a minute to hook up, or unhook if I use my electric impact for the side bolts, although I do have to crawl under the truck to put the pin in the vertical reciever. (I originally built it to pull a lever in the fenderwell to pull/push the pin but it never worked as well as I wanted).

I kept my old hitch on a cart, I set the hitch onto the cart with the loader forks, and then can roll it around for storage. This one works with the same cart, but the vertical shaft is hidden in the picture.

The Signature series plate has a slightly different Y angle than the standard Reese 5th wheel plates and I re-profiled the Fifth Airborne /Sidewinder puck for the new hitch in my Bridgeport and bolted that up today as well, I just need to do the final adjustment next time I hook it up.

Overall it looks really clean, and the main vertical shaft is hidden by the plate, A casual observer might think there are just 4 1/2" bolts holding the hitch to the truck, if any one askes I'll just smile and say yeah they are just going through the sheetmetal with a few fender washers...it should hold.
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Last edited by cruiserdar; January 22nd, 2011 at 09:03 PM.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 06:45 AM   #36
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Sweet. Looks brand new.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 07:16 AM   #37
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Why not run a gooseneck? They take up way less space in the bed.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 07:25 AM   #38
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Yeah the guy said he used it three times for his 40 foot toyhauler, then he read on the internet that he should get a suspension hitch or pinbox, so he bought a $2000 airbag suspension 5th wheel hitch with adapters to the under the bed mounting system and then essentially gave away the reese. He was kinda bummed when I was talking to him because it towed great with the Reese, then after he switched hitches it lurches noticeably on expansion joints now. in retrospec he wished he would have went with a suspension pinbox instead.

I got the pinbox from a guy that was running it on a B&W plate and the B&W moves side to side too much, infact it says right on the Fifth Airborne website and directions...not for use with B&W hitches. I am not bashing B&W...I think they rock (I patterned my custom hitch after their design). I just think it is too bad that the salespeople at the RV stores just start throwing expensive parts together for trailers without knowing if they will work well together.

Last edited by cruiserdar; January 23rd, 2011 at 07:37 AM.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 07:32 AM   #39
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Why not run a gooseneck? They take up way less space in the bed.
The trailer came with both types, I wanted a suspension, and I have a shortbed, so I need something that allows for tight turning, I have a Pinbox / goose adapter for sale in the parts section.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 06:55 PM   #40
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Nice move Dar, I wanted to do this too but need to recover my wallet, until then I'll carry 2 spares all the time
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