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Old August 25th, 2006, 02:37 PM   #1
46flattie
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Default 401 crankshaft

Looking for a reconditionable 401 crank or better or motor. Prefer one that does not require welding.

Scott
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Old August 25th, 2006, 03:11 PM   #2
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-----Original Message-----
From: amc-list-bounces@wps.com [mailto:amc-list-bounces@wps.com] On Behalf Of Nick ALFANO
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 9:06 AM
To: amc list
Subject: [AMC-List] IH 401 crank wanted

Todd,

There is no off-the-shelf crank available at this time for a 401. I have kicked it around for some time and have had a couple people interested but not enough yet for me to make the investment. I am going to another company in a month or so to see if I can get the price range where I want but even then, it would be a while and require some pre-sale.

I do have a brand new custom billet Moldex crank for a 401. It has a 4" stroke with AMC main journals, front and rear hub and SBC rod journals. This would make a nice stroker out of a 401 with a 6" rod.

Nick Alfano
Alfano Performance
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Old August 25th, 2006, 04:08 PM   #3
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I think I read on www.bulltear.com forums that they are making cranks for 401's.
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Old August 25th, 2006, 04:23 PM   #4
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weren't the 401 and 360 the same crank just different rod length and larger bore??

or was it the 360 and 304????
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Old August 25th, 2006, 05:06 PM   #5
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I am pretty sure the 360 and 401 are the same.
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Old August 25th, 2006, 05:10 PM   #6
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Nope, guess not.

http://www.bulltear.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5408
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Old August 25th, 2006, 06:30 PM   #7
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Old August 25th, 2006, 07:58 PM   #8
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This is taken from that www.bulltear.com thread, the question is how to make a 304 stroker.

"It would be possible, but a few quick observations. The 304 block would have to have the bottoms of the cylinders notched for rod clearance. Depending on which rods you use, you'd have to have the crank cut because 304/360 rods have a smaller journal, or have the custom pistons made because the 390/401 rods have bigger wrist pins. You're probably stuck with custom pistons in either scenario to get compression height correct.

Then there's heads. With 304 heads you have small valves. Putting big valve (360/401) heads on may require that the cylinder walls be notched, and still doesn't gain much because of shrouding.

All in all, a lot of money, time, and research spent for an engine that might not have the performance of a mild 360 or 401. Sure it has a "cool" factor. I ran a high compression balanced/bluebrinted 304 in my Jeep went I mud bogged. Regularly spun it to 6500/7000 RPM. Lots of guys were surprised when I raised the hood that it wasn't a SBC. In the end, I swapped to a 360, and will eventually go to a 401 (sitting in my garage waiting to be built). There's just no replacement for displacement.

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Old August 25th, 2006, 11:40 PM   #9
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i'd sell you my 401 crank, but its still in the motor and i dont know the condition of it till i drop the pan. I had it machined to .010 under on the first rebuild. And about 10,000 miles later while submarining in Gladwin, swallowed some swamp juice mixed with sand. Anyway,(to the point) Tommy C had told me of a guy who had 401 cranks and i picked one up for $250. Polished and never turned. Contact Tom. I dont have a phone# of this guy any more. 3 years since i grabed the crank. If your interested in mine i'll flip the motor and pull the pan so you can take a look?

Sandals is right. 401 and 360 are different bore and stroke. Cranks are not the same

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Old August 28th, 2006, 06:41 AM   #10
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jeepers48,
Yeah I'd be interested in your crank. I'm assuming you must have broke a rod or stuck it thru the block? I'll give Tommy a call also. My crank broke at the rear main last week.....sucks the motor has been really running good.

Thanks for all the inputs.

Scott
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Old August 28th, 2006, 10:18 AM   #11
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Nope, didnt break anything on the lower end, but the sand did seize the piston for the oil pressure which gernaded my lifters and then bent pushrods. I had the pan off and a couple of the end caps. I didnt tear the motor down because it would of set on the work bench for the last couple of years with no extra $$ to fix it. "Hope to save my money pit"
Also: this same guy will rebiuld your short block,was my understanding. He used to work for Chrysler.
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Old August 28th, 2006, 12:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepers48
Nope, didnt break anything on the lower end, but the sand did seize the piston for the oil pressure which gernaded my lifters and then bent pushrods. I had the pan off and a couple of the end caps. I didnt tear the motor down because it would of set on the work bench for the last couple of years with no extra $$ to fix it. "Hope to save my money pit"
Also: this same guy will rebiuld your short block,was my understanding. He used to work for Chrysler.
Yep, I know Tommy. I typically do all my own engine building anyway. Unfortunately, my crank had been welded and re-ground. I suspect that a crack was missed during magnafluxing. It's been in my motor for a few years.
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