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Old December 30th, 2010, 05:22 PM   #41
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I'll have a busy day tomorrow
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Old December 31st, 2010, 11:21 PM   #42
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Well tapatalk won't upload my pic, but it's on 35s tonight.
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Old January 1st, 2011, 08:26 AM   #43
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Happy new year gl4x4
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Old January 1st, 2011, 10:44 AM   #44
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So the metalcloaks went on without a problem. Took me quite some time being careful to not scratch them up.

Not sure why I'm having so much trouble uploading pics. Stupid phones.

Anyway it looks great, the tires turn lock to lock in the front, only rubs on the swaybar at full lock, when I install the links I'm hoping that takes care of that, if not an anti-rock type bar might be in order.

Hopefully I'll get to forklift flex it at work Monday and measure for bump stops. The rear is looking like some limited uptravel due to the tires, but I can't be sure until I check. I haven't measured height yet either so I'm assuming it still has the front rake and needs a spacer to level it out.

But the first drive was so fun, first time ever having to step up into a tj while it wasn't on jack stands.
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Old January 1st, 2011, 10:50 AM   #45
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looking good i like it !
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Old January 1st, 2011, 01:50 PM   #46
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Painted up the battery tray and some accessories








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Old January 3rd, 2011, 05:58 PM   #47
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Some new pictures I just took.





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Old January 3rd, 2011, 06:01 PM   #48
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That looks awesome! Nice Jeep.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 06:07 PM   #49
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And a test little flex in the driveway looking for clearance issues. There is a few



Here is the front of the rear wheel well, the tire gently kisses the sheet metal, not sure how I can remedy this yet. It's not touching in pic, but I watched it touch during the travel up the rock.


This is passenger side at full steering lock, touching the outer edge of the front fender while the rear is on the rock.


This is the swaybar at full lock. An antirock type should give more clearance here right?? Not really wanting to remove it for dd duty. (even tho it's not hooked up yet still, soon tho)


Here is the other side while on the rock.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 06:14 PM   #50
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different but very nice, good job
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 06:14 PM   #51
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I believe the one mag that did the article on 35's with no lift got adjustable arms and moved the rear axle back one inch for clearance. Seems it is a must to go that route.

I don't see a need for a front sway bar with such a low cog and now it has a wider stance also.

Looks good I hope to do the same type of setup on mine.
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 06:21 PM   #52
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So in order to fix these clearance issues I'm not 100% sure on how or what to do. It's going to be costly to do things properly.

I have some rubicon springs I will probably try in a few weeks if I can find them, see what they do for lift anyway.

Or to help the clearance a 3/4" spacer in the rear for a bit more height and a 2" for the front since it's lower in the front. That should level it out.

I've been even putting a bit of thought into a 1" body lift, but I would rather not, just not a fan at all of them.

Or I've been thinking about the rough country progressive 2.5" coils. Any body use those??

I still need to measure for extended bump stops. But in the flexed out pic the front was already touching the bumpstop ever so slightly, so my uptravel is going to be limited if I need to add alot of spacers
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Old January 3rd, 2011, 06:24 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Jeepaholic View Post
I believe the one mag that did the article on 35's with no lift got adjustable arms and moved the rear axle back one inch for clearance. Seems it is a must to go that route.

I don't see a need for a front sway bar with such a low cog and now it has a wider stance also.

Looks good I hope to do the same type of setup on mine.
Yeah adjustable arms would be nice and would help, but I do plan on a 5" stretch in the future so unless I find cheap used ones it's probably gonna have to wait. Although with the tummy tuck waiting to get installed I might HAVE to buy some to fine tune the pinion angle.
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Old January 4th, 2011, 10:19 PM   #54
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Got on the forklift today





The rear comes off the ground 21" and doesn't touch the bumpstops at all before the body. Probably only needs 1" maybe 1.5" added to stop the rubbing.

Now the front only comes up 16" before it's going to touch the fenders. I'm thinking like 1.5" bumpstops for the front, but if I do that I have like only 1" of uptravel before it touches the factory ones. I need to the the spacer to level out the front more. That will help I think.

The more I think about it, the better a 1" bodylift sounds for more clearance.
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Old January 5th, 2011, 06:58 AM   #55
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What are you going to do for turn signals? How was the fender install? Where are those little filler plate things for the fenders? Looks pretty cool
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Old January 5th, 2011, 07:31 AM   #56
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a 1" body lift means you could do a tummy tuck. I like your build, but it needs more sawzall.
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Old January 5th, 2011, 07:33 AM   #57
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a 1" body lift means you could do a tummy tuck. I like your build, but it needs more sawzall.
He's already got that covered with a AEV belly skid (which doesn't require a body lift). Look back a couple pages for photos.

jared - Looking good. ProComp makes a 1" front leveling spacer, BTW.


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Old January 5th, 2011, 08:35 AM   #58
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Quote:
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What are you going to do for turn signals? How was the fender install? Where are those little filler plate things for the fenders? Looks pretty cool
I got the led low profile ones from metalcloak, installed last night, but I didn't like the placement in the fender. Pics later .And the filler plates are in the garage still just not the most important thing on my todo list.
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Old January 5th, 2011, 08:40 AM   #59
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Got a 150 dollar 4wparts gift card from my last order before Christmas :)

So I ordered a daystar 1" body lift, 1" spacer for the front, 1 1/4" bump stop spacers, a winch cover, and tree protector. Hopefully all in stock to pick up tomorrow or Friday and install over the weekend.

Hopefully I'll be done for a while ... Yeah right
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Old January 5th, 2011, 08:48 AM   #60
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The fenders were by far the easiest bolt on I have put on my jeep. Everything just unbolted then bolted back up. No modifications necessary.
The instructions are dead on and cover everything even hood clearancing. Lots of pictures too. Just follow the order of instructions and you won't have any issues

The only issue I had is since you put the round head of the bolts in the fender well to not cut your tires, one of the locknuts holding the fender to the aluminum wheel well contacts the hood when it's closed, just the lip under the edge. Just bend it up with some pliers no problems.
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