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Old March 6th, 2011, 06:21 PM   #1
gattaca37
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Default so goin do body lift on 98' wrangler and the darn bolt and nut

so I am doing a body lift on 98 wrangler cause i am looking at doin a tummy tuck (only reason for body lift). problem is the passenger rear body mount bolt and nut are to busy makin love and wont leave each other (nut has broke from weld). what is the best way to resolve this problem? cut bolt w/ reprocating saw and then hole saw out nut/washer, then weld in new nut + washer?

Also what is lowest height of a body lift if doin a tummy tuck that is 1/4" thick (the 1/4" tummy plate sits right up to frame, pushes everything up tight and clean)? I got a 2" BL from a friend for free, so I am lookin at puttin that on. currently I am runnin a 4" SL, SYE/CV
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Old March 6th, 2011, 06:24 PM   #2
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don't worry about one missing bolt. just cut it off at the frame side. that will leave 1" of bolt hanging down to keep the spacer from sliding out (and it'll be pinched). the factory or poly bushing sits into the frame so it won't slide out, either....
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Old March 6th, 2011, 06:35 PM   #3
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thanks, anyone have a 4" susp lift with a 2" body lift? post pics? i would like to see all angles if possible
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Old March 6th, 2011, 07:36 PM   #4
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look in my build thread
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Old March 7th, 2011, 08:35 PM   #5
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ok, problem is 4 bolts are spinning with the nuts which means no body lift, dam*t! this means no true tummy tuck, sh*t! I guess this jeep doesn't want a body lift. is there any way around this or it is what it is?
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Old March 7th, 2011, 11:56 PM   #6
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not the greatest way but i have seen people cut the heads off then cut floor pan just above the mount and replace it that way... i did this on a yj and it worked out ok
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Old March 8th, 2011, 09:52 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by gattaca37 View Post
ok, problem is 4 bolts are spinning with the nuts which means no body lift, dam*t! this means no true tummy tuck, sh*t! I guess this jeep doesn't want a body lift. is there any way around this or it is what it is?
Cut open the channel, cut bolt and remove nut plate, remove broken bolt or make new nut plate (large enough so that it won't spin), reinstall, weld up channel, install body lift.
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Old March 8th, 2011, 01:10 PM   #8
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Cut open the channel, cut bolt and remove nut plate, remove broken bolt or make new nut plate (large enough so that it won't spin), reinstall, weld up channel, install body lift.


This would be the correct way IMO.


I just did belly up with no body lift, there's only one place you have to cut the tub and few that require a bit of love from a BFH. Over the rear output is the only place that needs cutting and it only needs to move up and inch.




I usually make a small hole over the captive nut, soak in your favorite penetrating oil, get it hot and back it out. If it wont go I would remove the captive nut and replace it. 3/8" thick flat stock cut to the proper size drilled and taped 1/2-20.







Shawn
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Old March 8th, 2011, 02:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtheaded View Post
don't worry about one missing bolt. just cut it off at the frame side. that will leave 1" of bolt hanging down to keep the spacer from sliding out (and it'll be pinched). the factory or poly bushing sits into the frame so it won't slide out, either....
yeah, just knigger rig the shit out of it

is that mtheaded like emptyheaded stupid mother fucker or meatheaded dumb mother fucker?
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Old March 8th, 2011, 07:14 PM   #10
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OP here is what I posted in the "what did you do to your 4x4" thread in our club forum. Please excuse me if things are not perfect, I threw about 4 seperate posts together without really doctoring anything.




Before







My progress for the evening......T-case degreased and on the bench.



here we go belly up FTW!

The plan is to install a SYE kit and build a new crossmember.



The crosmember will consist of two 1"x1"x 0.120" "rails" running between the frame rails with a peice of 0.25" plate for the trans to bolt directly to. At each end there will be a bushing much like the bushings inside the framerails for the shackles to bolt to. This will eliminate the 3" tall factory trans mount while still allowing the drivetrain some wiggle room. The bushings im using are rubber just like my motor mounts, I cant find any negitive info regarding this setup.

My new Skid will be two seperate peices, one covering the trans and another covering the transfercase. I want to run two skids to keep things easy to remove/install mainly. Im also planning on covering a bit more area underneath. These will be completly seperate from the trans mount making future repairs much easier.

Trevor and I spent about 2 hours running the BFH around under the tub making room for the TC, Then this morning I decided that having the T-case hang 1" below the rails and the skid 1.5" bellow was un acceptable! So I spenT another hour with a bigger BFH to get it where I wanted it. The crossmember will be even with the frame rails and the t-case has 3/4" of clearance at its closest point, the next closest being over an inch.

I just finished building my new crossmember.

I started with 16' of 1x1x0.120. Longest peice is 30", the two short ones in the center are 11" and the centered one with the 45* ends is about 18".



Welded and ground.





Painted and ready for install.




All thats left now is to make the brackets that attach it to the rails and adjust my pinion.



My pinion angle is way the hell off, Im certain the 7* shims I have wont be enough. Im certain I moved my output yoke up about 5" (I had a 1" t-case drop) so tomorrow Ill be cutting the perches of the rear axle and welding new ones on at the proper angle.I backed my jeep up to the end of my driveway and pulled forward again and I could feel the drive shaft binding



I moved the jeep far enough along this evening that its drivable!

My dad arrived at 7:30pm, by 8:15 my rear axle was laying on the floor behind the jeep with its perches removed and ground flush. We reinstalled the axle measuring to be sure it was centered, snugged up the u-bolts, put the tires back on, installed the drive shaft and lowered the jeep to the floor. I hopped on the back a few times to ensure it was at its static ride height, using a massive pipe wrench I twisted the axle until the pinion was right where I wanted it and tacked the perches in place. We then removed the axle again and I burned the perches into there final resting place. We then reinstalled the axle and drive shaft completely.





Upon driving it I noticed some rubbing, The Double cardan was just rubbing the tub. I pulled out the BFH and a 10" long piece of scrap pipe attempting to move the floor further from the shaft. When that failed I decided to join Trevor's "Really big hole in the floor club"



No more rubbing.






The tummy tuck is a success!

Some minor floor pan fab tomorrow night and Ill be

FYI with a 1" BL I could have avoided all of the pounding and cutting But I wouldn't even consider a body lift, they are not for me.


Still on the list:
-Cover hole in tub between seats (I prefer to not be in Trevor's club)
-trim crossmember brackets that hang below the rails a bit.
-Fab skid
-Fix massive hole in frame rail next to fuel filter (hurray jeep, lets add a small skid for the fuel filter than will hold mud and rot the shit out of the frame rail)









I hope this helps, feel fre to ask any questions.

Shawn

Last edited by yyj87; March 8th, 2011 at 07:18 PM.
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Old March 10th, 2011, 09:53 AM   #11
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yeah, just knigger rig the shit out of it

is that mtheaded like emptyheaded stupid mother fucker or meatheaded dumb mother fucker?
listen, you stupid fucker.... in his original post, he said the ONE passenger rear bolt broke. with 10 other bolts holding it down, the mount is completely pinched. that tiny little bolt on the back corner isn't neeed. so if you do what I said, it is impossible for either the bushing at the frame to fall out, or for the body lift puck to fall out. and the one bolt does not matter.

go back to beating your wife and kicking the dog.
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