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Old January 24th, 2011, 08:43 PM   #161
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Will see how it looks after the motor is in, if it's a huge issue it will be changed. There will be a skid regardless. I crunched my oil pan with the 4.0 in it, never had good oil pressure in that thing, also no skid tho.
lesson learned.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 08:45 PM   #162
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5.3 Jeeps - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

this thread has been very helpful
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Old January 24th, 2011, 08:56 PM   #163
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Yeah, I've poked in that thread but not going to read all 90 pages. I see a lot of people asking questions but where are the posts by those with experience?
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Old January 24th, 2011, 08:59 PM   #164
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Yeah, I've poked in that thread but not going to read all 90 pages. I see a lot of people asking questions but where are the posts by those with experience?

It is a 50/50 war from what I read...did a thread search with "oil pan" some have had issues with stock , some with aftermarket, just a matter of what works for your wheeling style it seems.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:06 PM   #165
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This is the big oil pan thread there:

LSX engines using FBody oil pan - Oil control? - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:29 PM   #166
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Looks like Bryce could make some money if he put that pan together, lotsof interest in it on that thread
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:30 PM   #167
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It is a 50/50 war from what I read...did a thread search with "oil pan" some have had issues with stock , some with aftermarket, just a matter of what works for your wheeling style it seems.
I've a got a pictorial for all the pans for the GIII/IV vehicles hanging around somewhere. I'll see if I can dig it up. I did see a slightly different version of it somewhere online though. The big difference betwen the truck pans and the Camaro and older Corvette pans are the forward and latteral slosh control. The walls and the 'mouse holes' as we called them just slow the oil from piling up at the front or sides of the pan in side to side skid pad testing. The truck does not have a forward side lip like the shallow pans do and they allow oil to flood the front of the engine and starve the pickup. Same thing the Kevko pans do but they do it with trap doors. They all try to do the same thing, keep the oil near the pickup so it doesn't starve. Something we looked at but the complexity/risk for failure was to great for a production vehicle. Hell we even went as far as designing a pickup called the 'swinging d_ck'! Literally is was a swinging pickup on a fixed tube that rotated in the bottom of the pan. It worked but at what cost? If you're intent on running it on it's side for extended periods I'd look into an accumulator. Short of that I'd use one of the short pans with the baffle walls and mouse holes. AND a oil pressure switch and light that is as bright as a 100 watt bulb. When it goes on, shut it down. Save yourself $1000's
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:31 PM   #168
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Looks like Bryce could make some money if he put that pan together, lotsof interest in it on that thread
hahahaha, Ask him how his build is going!
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:40 PM   #169
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well, i just took the intake off beckys motor to swap on the new one (motor had a busted intake when she got it) and it isn't very pretty in there. the motor was definatley running when the intake broke and sucked a bunch of pieces in there. you can see right to the valves in a ls motor and can get some of the pieces out, but not sure if there is any that got between the pistons and valves? i think someone has been turning the motor over by hand because all the spark plugs have been out and are still loose. looks like a part of one of the injectors in there and the valves are very rusty. what do you guys think? here are some pics.





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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:48 PM   #170
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So Jim,
How come I've never lost oil pressure (to my knowledge)?
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:48 PM   #171
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well, i just took the intake off beckys motor to swap on the new one (motor had a busted intake when she got it) and it isn't very pretty in there. the motor was definatley running when the intake broke and sucked a bunch of pieces in there. you can see right to the valves in a ls motor and can get some of the pieces out, but not sure if there is any that got between the pistons and valves? i think someone has been turning the motor over by hand because all the spark plugs have been out and are still loose. looks like a part of one of the injectors in there and the valves are very rusty. what do you guys think? here are some pics.
So Beckys motor is the one with the garbage dump in the intake ports?
If so, I wouldn't run it OR turn it over one more degree without pulling the heads.
You have who knows how much work ahead of you R&R the valves and checking them for straightness. Along with whatever was ingested in the engine and what damage that might have caused. Short block can probably stay together for now but I would still pull the brg caps and rod ends to eyeball the bearings.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:50 PM   #172
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So Jim,
How come I've never lost oil pressure (to my knowledge)?
A. You're not hard core enough to run your Jeep on it's side for more than a minute. Your soft.
B. As I highlighted........how do you know?
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:52 PM   #173
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ouchhh.. thats a terrible find
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:56 PM   #174
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Well it's a serious question. I've run extremely steep rock climbs both up and down, have flopped it more than once and have been hung up and stationary while pulling cable. I wouldn't call the first ledge at Charlene's soft when it comes to angle. Not the greatest pics but all I have at the moment.

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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:56 PM   #175
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thats kinda what i thought. its mainly the back 4 cylinders and its the back of the intake that had a softball size piece missing.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 09:57 PM   #176
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A. You're not hard core enough to run your Jeep on it's side for more than a minute. Your soft.
B. As I highlighted........how do you know?
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Only by watching the oil pressure gauge. And the fact that the engine is still doing well after 4 years.

Back on topic, I hope there's no damage to Becky's engine.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 10:10 PM   #177
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Only by watching the oil pressure gauge. And the fact that the engine is still doing well after 4 years.

Back on topic, I hope there's no damage to Becky's engine.

You and me both Jim. Not a very happy camper right now
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Old January 24th, 2011, 10:17 PM   #178
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Well it's a serious question. I've run extremely steep rock climbs both up and down, have flopped it more than once and have been hung up and stationary while pulling cable. I wouldn't call the first ledge at Charlene's soft when it comes to angle. Not the greatest pics but all I have at the moment.

I'd have to put 6 qts in the system and then rotate it on the computer but I'd say even at that angle you stand a pretty good chance of maintaining some degree of oil pressure, but not forever. It's the nearly horizontal, running on you sidewalls for an exended peroid that will get you in trouble.
Remember too, you've got the shallow pan that I say is your best bet out of the chute. Only thing about the ledge @ Charlenes is it's short, make that ledge 6 times longer and bit steeper and you may start to have problems.
I would say that you'd be suprised what an engine can take. Remember my disaster May 31st 2009? Mine was UPSIDE DOWN running for over a minute. I pulled the caps and they looked like the day they were installed. Why? Running @ idle? Mains and rods getting 'splashed' oiled? who knows. I just wouldn't ever do that again. I got lucky.
I'm just saying that if you want to minimize engine damage, put a idiot light in there and respect it. OR see how big your nutz are......how long will you run it with the light on?
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Old January 24th, 2011, 10:25 PM   #179
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well, i just took the intake off beckys motor to swap on the new one (motor had a busted intake when she got it) and it isn't very pretty in there. the motor was definatley running when the intake broke and sucked a bunch of pieces in there. you can see right to the valves in a ls motor and can get some of the pieces out, but not sure if there is any that got between the pistons and valves? i think someone has been turning the motor over by hand because all the spark plugs have been out and are still loose. looks like a part of one of the injectors in there and the valves are very rusty. what do you guys think? here are some pics.
Holy shit! The yard I got it from (R & A Auto Salvage in Clare) said the back of the intake got broken while pulling it out of the H2 it came from. It was taped off and sealed pretty well when I got it. I peeked in there and what I saw looked fine so I stuffed a clean towel in and taped it off a little better while I was storing it. You're right, it was turned over by hand. It turned over nice and smoothly by hand just by grabbing the flexplate so I thought all was well. From time to time I squirted some oil and/or trans fluid in the spark plug holes and turned it over a few times(again turning the flexplate by hand) to keep things from rusting up or getting damaged. Hopefully you can just pull the heads, get the plastic out, and it'll be good to go. I can't imagine there being much damage considering how smoothly it turned over for me.
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Old January 24th, 2011, 10:26 PM   #180
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You and me both Jim. Not a very happy camper right now
For the price of a few head gaskets I'd pull them first. 'IF' you cold bore scope it through the sparkplug hole and assure there was no debris in each cylinder I'd do a cylinder leakdown and see where your at. That will show bent/burned/leaky valves if any and overall engine health.
Without a scope, you'll have to open it up.
I'd still do a leakdown after you're done to make sure you're not putting a junk motor in only to take it out in a few months.
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