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Old January 25th, 2011, 07:13 PM   #161
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I'm confused. A woman being rational. I don't get it. The world must be coming to an end. I wonder if Obama will talk about it in the state of the union address tonight.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 07:40 PM   #162
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Becky, you are very wise for someone so young!
Have you been hanging around with old people?
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Old January 25th, 2011, 07:51 PM   #163
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OK then!
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Old January 25th, 2011, 08:26 PM   #164
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I know it's a bit off the current topic but here is a pic of an early camaro pan on my 6.0l it shaves a good 4" over the truck pan, brings it level with the trans pan. Note: if you get one of these new from GM you will need to run an oil filter for a 2010 camaro for some reason they changed the threads. Took a few oil filter runs to figure this out thought the one for that year car would work, I was wrong. It was about 320.00 for everthing, pan, dipstick, windage tray, pick-up. The pan comes with a new gasket so don't order one.

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Old January 25th, 2011, 08:51 PM   #165
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To clarify..is that like a 90s camaro pan or a 2010 camaro pan? Guessing 90s LS1..
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Old January 25th, 2011, 09:00 PM   #166
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Late 90's to 2000 LS1 oil pan with a 2010 Camaro oil filter.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 11:28 PM   #167
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what about this ? looks like it comes with everything. wonder if it is the regular short car pan ?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19212593/
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Old January 26th, 2011, 05:02 AM   #168
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Nope the muscle car pan is only about a half inch shorter then the truck pan hieght wise if that. Had them side by side and sent it back. The reason it is considerd more clearence is the belly of the pan is shorter in order to clear many old cars that have big engine cradles.

PM if you have anymore ?'s...Don't want to high jack Becky's thread.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 08:01 AM   #169
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So are the heads getting pulled or not?

There is virtually no runout tolerance allowed on the valves, meaning it's very easy to tear up the seats if something isn't perfect.

ARP reusable bolts cost the same as GM head bolts. If you plan to pull the heads often then ARP studs are a good investment.

There is a lot of opinion when it comes to oil pans.... The early f body pans have a poor mans kevko baffle made by improved racing. Users say it makes enough of a difference. Head over to summit, order up some adapters for metric face seal to NPT, pick up your favorite 7 psi oil pressure switch and wire it to an air horn. By the time you get sick of the horn blowing you'll be cutting it close to prevent any damage.

I'd love to have time to work on the oil pan but the buggy has been dismantled and pushed into the corner for the last 3 months. I'm not seeing when things will free up but I'm crossing my fingers that it's soon.

I'll stop by later to see what I missed....
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Old January 26th, 2011, 10:28 AM   #170
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A leakdown isn't going to show you anything is wrong unless it's REALLY bad to the point where the stem is bent and at that point you will need head work to repair the guide(s).

Just turning the engine over without knowing everything is perfectly clean will do damage.

I'm not telling you this because I want to see you spend more time and money but you're looking at $200-300 now or $200-300 later plus $500 in machining and repair parts.

Rebuilding these engines is not cheap, the main, cam and rod bearings alone are between $300 and $400. The best thing you can do is to prevent any damage from happening and sometimes it's a buzz kill but the other options are in the thousands.....

$0.02 it's your engine, do what you will.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 02:28 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepbrattt View Post
One lesson I learned awhile back : If you don't have the power to change something, why let it ruin your day?
A very good lesson at that. I do my best to keep that in mind also. Hope things turn out well for you. Fingers are crossed.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 02:38 PM   #172
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[QUOTE=jeepbrattt;2517178]

One lesson I learned awhile back : If you don't have the power to change something, why let it ruin your day?

must of been all that time trying to change me...
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Old January 26th, 2011, 03:28 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepbrattt View Post
I hear ya, i'm sure Kevin will be on here after he tests it and will do whats needed. Appreciate the advice.


**** In need of a harness, guy that said he had one hasn't returned my calls, if you know of one send them my way please!
Have you done any research on how tough it'd be to rework the existing one to add the trans wiring? I know a guy who changed the plug/wiring from a 4L60E to a 4L80E and he said it was pretty easy...that's about the extent of my knowledge of it though.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 03:37 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ View Post
Have you done any research on how tough it'd be to rework the existing one to add the trans wiring? I know a guy who changed the plug/wiring from a 4L60E to a 4L80E and he said it was pretty easy...that's about the extent of my knowledge of it though.
This just involves switching 2 wires
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Old January 26th, 2011, 03:38 PM   #175
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PerformanceTrucks.net Forums - View Single Post - ECSB 4WD 4l60E to 4l80E

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...=413157&page=3

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Old January 26th, 2011, 04:05 PM   #176
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go full manual valve body and get rid of the trans wiring all together
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Old January 26th, 2011, 04:22 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tranny Tom View Post
This just involves switching 2 wires
It's a completely different plug too, isn't it? I dunno, I never even looked into it since I had someone who was gonna build me a custom harness anyway
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Old January 26th, 2011, 08:27 PM   #178
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The pick-up is still in the back of the pan. I'll try to keep this brief. There are litterally 100's of pages on the topic oiling and pans on LS motors. I look at it this way I know many people with LS motors with the stock pans, I've seen them as well as myself do some pretty hateful things with-out fail. I rolled my best friends truggy at twisted a few years ago, I was knocked out, the truck was on it's side running for at least a couple minutes befor it got shut off, pulled the truck back over let it sit for awhile fired it back up, been runnin like a top for the past four years. I don't need a motor to run upside down. If I was doing professional rock crawling where I might be in a poor oiling situation for extended piriods then I would go more fancy. Add a 1/4 to 1/2 quart over and pay attention to oil pressure. Sorry my .02's

PS. I have all the part numbers if ya need them.
Can't wait to see it in action!
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Old January 26th, 2011, 08:55 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepbrattt View Post
Was always told to run it with an extra quart even in the 4.0 because the pressure was never good in it
how does extra oil add oil pressure
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Old January 26th, 2011, 11:25 PM   #180
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after looking over all of the parts, i told becky i would post up a list of the parts needed to get this going.

1. crankshaft spacer
2. intake gaskets
3. wiring harness
4. computer flash
5. headers
6. exhaust system
7. engine oil dipstick and tube
8. trans dipstick and tube
9. trans shifter
10. radiator
11. radiator hoses
12. trans cooler
13. transmission lines
14. fuel system - fuel pump, lines,fittings, ect.
15. egr tube block off plate
16. some kind of gauges
17. trans torque converter cover
18. mass air sensor
19. throttle position sensor
20. idle air motor
21. air cleaner assembly
22. driveshafts
23. front axle 1350 yoke
24. rear axle 1350 yoke
25. t-case front output 1350 yoke

pretty big list and it doesn't include all the little stuff like oil, transfluid, antifreeze. not to mention the current engine issue and i'm sure i am forgetting some stuff.
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