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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:50 AM   #241
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Idiot gauges, Ford has been doing it on some trucks for near 20 years..
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:51 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
When you say needs to go uphill... you mean the surge tank should be the highest point on the system, and is on the pressure side, correct?

The steam lines don't need to go uphill specifically, and are preferred to be on a low pressure side, right?
Vent lines from the head, either rear or front depending on how the engine is angled in the vehicle (Corvette is at rear because engine is angled nose down, 0.45*, Trucks are at front as engine angle is around 6*, rear down) are all on the high pressure side of the system. Some people however vent from all 4 points just to be safe. The overflow tank is a pressurized tank with a pressure cap. Radiator cap never comes off anymore.
Pressurized overflow tank should always be higher than the radiator. Think of it a a extension of your radiator top tank.
Essentially you are bleeding the water/steam off the top of the cylinder heads constantly. That's a reason they are in the 2.0 mm range. They are the fittings that are bolted to the head near the intake port at the corners of each head. Sometimes the unused ports at the back of the heads are riveted shut.
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Last edited by kb8ymf; January 27th, 2011 at 11:00 AM.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 12:55 PM   #243
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Motor was cleaned out last night and leakdown test done, passed with flying colors, not as bad as it looked when intake came off.......moving on
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Old January 27th, 2011, 01:53 PM   #244
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Motor was cleaned out last night and leakdown test done, passed with flying colors, not as bad as it looked when intake came off.......moving on
good deal!
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Old January 27th, 2011, 02:13 PM   #245
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Motor was cleaned out last night and leakdown test done, passed with flying colors, not as bad as it looked when intake came off.......moving on
Great to hear!
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Old January 27th, 2011, 05:06 PM   #246
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Great to hear Becky. A couple other things from this discussion....

Extra quart of oil sounds good but I have heard in the past that too much oil creates a froth problem. True or no?

Steam port. Mine is piped into my radiator just below my pressure side of the cap. My overflow tank is still the original plastic jeep tank that is not pressurized nor higher than the radiator. So far, (3 years) no problem.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 06:30 PM   #247
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Steam port. Mine is piped into my radiator just below my pressure side of the cap. My overflow tank is still the original plastic jeep tank that is not pressurized nor higher than the radiator. So far, (3 years) no problem.
Mine has been capped for a year, haven't noticed anything bad
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Old January 27th, 2011, 07:31 PM   #248
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If you want to see how your harness will look from Jim's, I just got mine back today. A few pics here:

Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest - View Single Post - Refurbishing my Scrambler...
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Old January 27th, 2011, 08:06 PM   #249
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Looks great, I have heard nothing but great things about his work, can't wait to get mine to that point.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 08:50 PM   #250
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Just got word the motor is all back together and bolted up with the trans.

Sye should be there tomorrow according to UPS.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 04:27 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Extra quart of oil sounds good but I have heard in the past that too much oil creates a froth problem. True or no?

Steam port. Mine is piped into my radiator just below my pressure side of the cap. My overflow tank is still the original plastic jeep tank that is not pressurized nor higher than the radiator. So far, (3 years) no problem.
Too much oil is too much... While the engine is on the level is about an inch to an inch and a half below the crank shaft deflector/windage tray. One quart gets spread out over a large area so it doesnt raise the level much. Too much oil and it'll get splashed around by the crank shaft and get air in it; bad. Not enough oil and the pickup tube gets uncovered too easily and pulls air; worse than too much oil. The other downside to not enough oil is the dwell time in the pan where it needs to cool and seperate the air. The same thing applies in a transmission, too much and the rotating parts get restriction and frothy oil, not enough and you lose pressure on the clutches.

It is a balancing act and 1 quart is about all you can safely get away with.


Overflow tanks dont matter, all it does is push and pull air and coolant as needed. A surge tank is an active part of the system and it is the vent and fill point so if it isnt the highest (or even) point in the system then it will not remove air from the other points and filling from there wouldnt get all the air out.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 06:25 AM   #252
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While we are still on the oil/oil-pan debate I found this over at LS1tech; good stuff.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-oil-pans.html
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Old January 30th, 2011, 07:32 AM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John D View Post
While we are still on the oil/oil-pan debate I found this over at LS1tech; good stuff.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-oil-pans.html

Wow, over 3" difference in my truck pan and an F body pan.

That's a great link for easy comparison.


Sye all hooked up yesterday, motor probably dropped in today, depends on his schedule.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 08:25 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepbrattt View Post
Wow, over 3" difference in my truck pan and an F body pan.
I don't remember who said it on here, but the F-body pan is about flush with the transmission pan; big difference.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 10:49 AM   #255
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It all depends on what trans you have. There's about a 2" different between a th350 to a th400 and another inch and a half to a 6L80.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 12:25 PM   #256
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was looking for a oil cooler block off plate. didn't think they would be that hard to find. maybe a dealer only item? anyone have one?
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Old January 30th, 2011, 02:32 PM   #257
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Shoulda done your research first Becky, I offered you an F-body pan when I sold you the motor That's what I planned on using for clearance....shouldn't be too hard to come by another one though. Or contact Renegade II and see if he doesn't want it, he bought it along with a bunch of other engine parts I had and my 5.3 mock-up motor.

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was looking for a oil cooler block off plate. didn't think they would be that hard to find. maybe a dealer only item? anyone have one?
I think it's dealer only, but they're only $10-12 if I remember right. Or if you've got a decent salvage yard nearby you could probably pull it off a 4.8L or 5.3L 1/2 ton truck for a couple bucks. Not sure which models had oil coolers and which didn't, but my 5.3 was out of a 1999 1/2 ton 2WD and had the blockoff, where the 6.0L you're working with is out of a 2004 H2 4WD and has the cooler.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 03:02 PM   #258
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Shoulda done your research first Becky, I offered you an F-body pan when I sold you the motor That's what I planned on using for clearance....shouldn't be too hard to come by another one though. Or contact Renegade II and see if he doesn't want it, he bought it along with a bunch of other engine parts I had and my 5.3 mock-up motor.


I think it's dealer only, but they're only $10-12 if I remember right. Or if you've got a decent salvage yard nearby you could probably pull it off a 4.8L or 5.3L 1/2 ton truck for a couple bucks. Not sure which models had oil coolers and which didn't, but my 5.3 was out of a 1999 1/2 ton 2WD and had the blockoff, where the 6.0L you're working with is out of a 2004 H2 4WD and has the cooler.
Yea I know Sean, but at the time I only had enough extra cash floating around for the motor/trans. Had to wait til after the holidays to even get this project rolling. Have to do what funds allow sometimes
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Old January 30th, 2011, 03:19 PM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabricator View Post
was looking for a oil cooler block off plate. didn't think they would be that hard to find. maybe a dealer only item? anyone have one?
It isnt a "block off" plate. It is a cap that connects the two ports. 100% of the pressurized oil for the engine passes from one port to the other port, without those two connected the engine will get zero oil. A dealer will have the best part to put on there if that's all you want to do. Wide open design sells a replacement piece that has a couple fittings in it for easy accumulator or sending unit plumbing. It's about $45 if I remember correctly.

It's all in here:
Links to GM LSx Engine Questions & Info - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
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Old January 30th, 2011, 03:27 PM   #260
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Quote:
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Yea I know Sean, but at the time I only had enough extra cash floating around for the motor/trans. Had to wait til after the holidays to even get this project rolling. Have to do what funds allow sometimes
Yep I definitely know how that goes!
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