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Old January 26th, 2011, 02:28 PM   #221
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Originally Posted by jeepbrattt View Post
I hear ya, i'm sure Kevin will be on here after he tests it and will do whats needed. Appreciate the advice.


**** In need of a harness, guy that said he had one hasn't returned my calls, if you know of one send them my way please!
Have you done any research on how tough it'd be to rework the existing one to add the trans wiring? I know a guy who changed the plug/wiring from a 4L60E to a 4L80E and he said it was pretty easy...that's about the extent of my knowledge of it though.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 02:37 PM   #222
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Have you done any research on how tough it'd be to rework the existing one to add the trans wiring? I know a guy who changed the plug/wiring from a 4L60E to a 4L80E and he said it was pretty easy...that's about the extent of my knowledge of it though.
This just involves switching 2 wires
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Old January 26th, 2011, 02:38 PM   #223
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PerformanceTrucks.net Forums - View Single Post - ECSB 4WD 4l60E to 4l80E

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...=413157&page=3

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Old January 26th, 2011, 03:05 PM   #224
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go full manual valve body and get rid of the trans wiring all together
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Old January 26th, 2011, 03:22 PM   #225
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This just involves switching 2 wires
It's a completely different plug too, isn't it? I dunno, I never even looked into it since I had someone who was gonna build me a custom harness anyway
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Old January 26th, 2011, 06:15 PM   #226
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It's not the matter of the different transmissions, the harness is for a manual, my trans is an automatic. How I understood what I was told was because the harness is for a manual trans there ARE NO existing wires at all or place to put them, so will not work. Had the harness been for an automatic going to a manual trans no problem, don't use the wires.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 07:27 PM   #227
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The pick-up is still in the back of the pan. I'll try to keep this brief. There are litterally 100's of pages on the topic oiling and pans on LS motors. I look at it this way I know many people with LS motors with the stock pans, I've seen them as well as myself do some pretty hateful things with-out fail. I rolled my best friends truggy at twisted a few years ago, I was knocked out, the truck was on it's side running for at least a couple minutes befor it got shut off, pulled the truck back over let it sit for awhile fired it back up, been runnin like a top for the past four years. I don't need a motor to run upside down. If I was doing professional rock crawling where I might be in a poor oiling situation for extended piriods then I would go more fancy. Add a 1/4 to 1/2 quart over and pay attention to oil pressure. Sorry my .02's

PS. I have all the part numbers if ya need them.
Can't wait to see it in action!
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Old January 26th, 2011, 07:47 PM   #228
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The pick-up is still in the back of the pan. I'll try to keep this brief. There are litterally 100's of pages on the topic oiling and pans on LS motors. I look at it this way I know many people with LS motors with the stock pans, I've seen them as well as myself do some pretty hateful things with-out fail. I rolled my best friends truggy at twisted a few years ago, I was knocked out, the truck was on it's side running for at least a couple minutes befor it got shut off, pulled the truck back over let it sit for awhile fired it back up, been runnin like a top for the past four years. I don't need a motor to run upside down. If I was doing professional rock crawling where I might be in a poor oiling situation for extended piriods then I would go more fancy. Add a 1/4 to 1/2 quart over and pay attention to oil pressure. Sorry my .02's

PS. I have all the part numbers if ya need them.
Can't wait to see it in action!
Was always told to run it with an extra quart even in the 4.0 because the oil pressure was never good in it.

Also because the pan got pretty caved in

Last edited by jeepbrattt; January 27th, 2011 at 06:12 AM.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 07:55 PM   #229
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Was always told to run it with an extra quart even in the 4.0 because the pressure was never good in it
how does extra oil add oil pressure
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Old January 26th, 2011, 10:25 PM   #230
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after looking over all of the parts, i told becky i would post up a list of the parts needed to get this going.

1. crankshaft spacer
2. intake gaskets
3. wiring harness
4. computer flash
5. headers
6. exhaust system
7. engine oil dipstick and tube
8. trans dipstick and tube
9. trans shifter
10. radiator
11. radiator hoses
12. trans cooler
13. transmission lines
14. fuel system - fuel pump, lines,fittings, ect.
15. egr tube block off plate
16. some kind of gauges
17. trans torque converter cover
18. mass air sensor
19. throttle position sensor
20. idle air motor
21. air cleaner assembly
22. driveshafts
23. front axle 1350 yoke
24. rear axle 1350 yoke
25. t-case front output 1350 yoke

pretty big list and it doesn't include all the little stuff like oil, transfluid, antifreeze. not to mention the current engine issue and i'm sure i am forgetting some stuff.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 12:43 AM   #231
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after looking over all of the parts, i told becky i would post up a list of the parts needed to get this going.

1. crankshaft spacer - advanced adaptors
2. intake gaskets-got
3. wiring harness -Jimsperformance...check
4. computer flash - sent to Jimsperformance
5. headers - sanderson
6. exhaust system
7. engine oil dipstick and tube- thanks bill
8. trans dipstick and tube -have here, need to ship to you
9. trans shifter- speedway motors
10. radiator and surgetank- speedwaymotors
11. radiator hoses
12. trans cooler
13. transmission lines
14. fuel system - fuel pump, lines,fittings, ect. - airtex
15. egr tube block off plate- got from dealership
16. some kind of gauges
17. trans torque converter cover
18. mass air sensor- thanks Greg
19. throttle position sensor-thanks Bill
20. idle air motor- Thanks Bill
21. air cleaner assembly
22. driveshafts
23. front axle 1350 yoke -these last three are not a definite change
24. rear axle 1350 yoke
25. t-case front output 1350 yoke
26. SKID PLATES
pretty big list and it doesn't include all the little stuff like oil, transfluid, antifreeze. not to mention the current engine issue and i'm sure i am forgetting some stuff.
How did the leakdown test go?

Last edited by jeepbrattt; March 7th, 2011 at 05:03 PM.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 05:26 AM   #232
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how does extra oil add oil pressure
It gives you a higher oil level while at any operating condition. The higher the oil, the less likely you are to uncover the pickup tube. When you pull air, you lose pressure.

While at low rpm operation there is between 4.5 and 3 quarts in the pan for a 6 quart system. At high rpm operation there is right around but not much more than 2 at any given time.

A Z06 during 5-7k rpm track operation has 1.2 quarts in the tank.

The new camaro has an 8 quart capacity and the new dry sump systems have a "band aid" fix.

It's common to run the engine and trans a quart over full.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 07:09 AM   #233
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So there's the list......if anyone is selling anything I can use let me know.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 09:38 AM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabricator View Post
after looking over all of the parts, i told becky i would post up a list of the parts needed to get this going.

1. crankshaft spacer
2. intake gaskets
3. wiring harness
4. computer flash
5. headers
6. exhaust system
7. engine oil dipstick and tube
8. trans dipstick and tube
9. trans shifter
10. radiator
11. radiator hoses
12. trans cooler
13. transmission lines
14. fuel system - fuel pump, lines,fittings, ect.
15. egr tube block off plate
16. some kind of gauges
17. trans torque converter cover
18. mass air sensor
19. throttle position sensor
20. idle air motor
21. air cleaner assembly
22. driveshafts
23. front axle 1350 yoke
24. rear axle 1350 yoke
25. t-case front output 1350 yoke

pretty big list and it doesn't include all the little stuff like oil, transfluid, antifreeze. not to mention the current engine issue and i'm sure i am forgetting some stuff.
Have you planned out the cooling system completely, yet? I'm trying to figure out mine, now. Need to figure out where the steam port lines are going, and if I'm using a surge tank or not...
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Old January 27th, 2011, 09:51 AM   #235
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Have you planned out the cooling system completely, yet? I'm trying to figure out mine, now. Need to figure out where the steam port lines are going, and if I'm using a surge tank or not...
What is the purpose of the steam ports?
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:06 AM   #236
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What is the purpose of the steam ports?
pressure release in the heads to prevent steam pockets building up.

Lots of info here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...&highlight=ls1
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:20 AM   #237
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Use a surge tank. Plumbs into front heater port line on the water pump. Steam port lines can go to surge tank or preferably the top of the rad tank. Needs to go up hill and be on the pressure side of the system.




Had a brain fart on what line was what.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:23 AM   #238
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when the harness gets done he can wire it to use her gauges she has in the jeep already.(why i left her computer there with the gauges still plugged in)so no need to buy new gauges.there is many pages of this info in the 5.3 thread on pirate.
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:26 AM   #239
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Use a surge tank. Plumbs into front heater port line on the water pump. Steam port lines can go to surge tank or preferably the top of the rad tank. Needs to go up hill and be on the pressure side of the system.




Had a brain fart on what line was what.

When you say needs to go uphill... you mean the surge tank should be the highest point on the system, and is on the pressure side, correct?

The steam lines don't need to go uphill specifically, and are preferred to be on a low pressure side, right?
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Old January 27th, 2011, 10:31 AM   #240
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when the harness gets done he can wire it to use her gauges she has in the jeep already.(why i left her computer there with the gauges still plugged in)so no need to buy new gauges.there is many pages of this info in the 5.3 thread on pirate.

The only caution I have with this, is how well you trust stock gages. Stockers are designed to look nice, and keep the driver feeling like everything is right.

So, say oil pressure, we filter that input, and make it look like its in the middle and all is well. Per the OEM's direction, we don't make it move too much, and when it does move, its done very very slowly.

Same with the temp gage. We will get calibrations from the OEM that make it so that center point on the temp gage, it might be anything between 190-220 it'll sit right in the center.

The OEMs doesn't like the public to see 'unfiltered' gage data.
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