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Old January 25th, 2011, 01:08 PM   #201
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I do not have an oil pressure indicator light. Not ever sure what it would take to wire it up at this point since I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
You'd plumb a second sender that is an on/off switch. There's a factor sender I think that does just that, might be able to tap into it.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 05:37 PM   #202
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i am glad kevin is doing this because i would have been pissed about now.
Which is most likely the LAST thing she would need right now.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 06:05 PM   #203
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First of all, I am NOT at all upset with Sean (bbaxj) he bought the motor and it sat, then he went a diff direction and I bought it. I knew the intake was broken, I knew with a used motor there could be issues, and when and IF there is an issue found it will be dealt with.

Second, i'm NOT freaking out, i'm well aware that people are throwing out worst case issues and trying to help. I have total faith that Kevin will do his best with my motor or I wouldn't have asked him to take on my build. He's been on the phone picking peoples brains and checking prices and in contact with myself and Sean about every detail.

Third, time to relax.....take a deep breath people, i'm not gonna get my panties in a bunch over something we don't even know yet. I have no control over what's there, only the ability to remedy the issue IF there is one found. So it may take a little longer, so it may cost a little more $$, OR it may be just fine. Either way, it is what it is and will be worked with as that.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 06:13 PM   #204
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I'm confused. A woman being rational. I don't get it. The world must be coming to an end. I wonder if Obama will talk about it in the state of the union address tonight.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 06:25 PM   #205
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I'm confused. A woman being rational. I don't get it. The world must be coming to an end. I wonder if Obama will talk about it in the state of the union address tonight.



One lesson I learned awhile back : If you don't have the power to change something, why let it ruin your day?

(Of course every now and then I choose to ignore this and have a full blown temper tantrum.........it isn't pretty! )
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Old January 25th, 2011, 06:40 PM   #206
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Becky, you are very wise for someone so young!
Have you been hanging around with old people?
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Old January 25th, 2011, 06:42 PM   #207
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Becky, you are very wise for someone so young!
Have you been hanging around with old people?
I've been drinking











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Old January 25th, 2011, 06:51 PM   #208
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OK then!
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Old January 25th, 2011, 07:26 PM   #209
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I know it's a bit off the current topic but here is a pic of an early camaro pan on my 6.0l it shaves a good 4" over the truck pan, brings it level with the trans pan. Note: if you get one of these new from GM you will need to run an oil filter for a 2010 camaro for some reason they changed the threads. Took a few oil filter runs to figure this out thought the one for that year car would work, I was wrong. It was about 320.00 for everthing, pan, dipstick, windage tray, pick-up. The pan comes with a new gasket so don't order one.

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Old January 25th, 2011, 07:51 PM   #210
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To clarify..is that like a 90s camaro pan or a 2010 camaro pan? Guessing 90s LS1..
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Old January 25th, 2011, 08:00 PM   #211
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Late 90's to 2000 LS1 oil pan with a 2010 Camaro oil filter.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 10:28 PM   #212
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what about this ? looks like it comes with everything. wonder if it is the regular short car pan ?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19212593/
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Old January 26th, 2011, 04:02 AM   #213
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Nope the muscle car pan is only about a half inch shorter then the truck pan hieght wise if that. Had them side by side and sent it back. The reason it is considerd more clearence is the belly of the pan is shorter in order to clear many old cars that have big engine cradles.

PM if you have anymore ?'s...Don't want to high jack Becky's thread.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 06:18 AM   #214
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Nope the muscle car pan is only about a half inch shorter then the truck pan hieght wise if that. Had them side by side and sent it back. The reason it is considerd more clearence is the belly of the pan is shorter in order to clear many old cars that have big engine cradles.

PM if you have anymore ?'s...Don't want to high jack Becky's thread.

Actually Fabricator is doing the build, so he's asking in my behalf, but thanks for being considerate!So where is the pick up located on this one compared to the Kevco pan?

Motor mounts got put in last night, spacer and bolts were delivered.....progress no matter how little

Last edited by jeepbrattt; January 26th, 2011 at 06:25 AM.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 07:01 AM   #215
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So are the heads getting pulled or not?

There is virtually no runout tolerance allowed on the valves, meaning it's very easy to tear up the seats if something isn't perfect.

ARP reusable bolts cost the same as GM head bolts. If you plan to pull the heads often then ARP studs are a good investment.

There is a lot of opinion when it comes to oil pans.... The early f body pans have a poor mans kevko baffle made by improved racing. Users say it makes enough of a difference. Head over to summit, order up some adapters for metric face seal to NPT, pick up your favorite 7 psi oil pressure switch and wire it to an air horn. By the time you get sick of the horn blowing you'll be cutting it close to prevent any damage.

I'd love to have time to work on the oil pan but the buggy has been dismantled and pushed into the corner for the last 3 months. I'm not seeing when things will free up but I'm crossing my fingers that it's soon.

I'll stop by later to see what I missed....
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Old January 26th, 2011, 07:23 AM   #216
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Leakdown test being done tonite, asked about heads, his reply..."I will do whatever it takes."

Good enough for me
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Old January 26th, 2011, 09:28 AM   #217
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A leakdown isn't going to show you anything is wrong unless it's REALLY bad to the point where the stem is bent and at that point you will need head work to repair the guide(s).

Just turning the engine over without knowing everything is perfectly clean will do damage.

I'm not telling you this because I want to see you spend more time and money but you're looking at $200-300 now or $200-300 later plus $500 in machining and repair parts.

Rebuilding these engines is not cheap, the main, cam and rod bearings alone are between $300 and $400. The best thing you can do is to prevent any damage from happening and sometimes it's a buzz kill but the other options are in the thousands.....

$0.02 it's your engine, do what you will.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 12:41 PM   #218
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A leakdown isn't going to show you anything is wrong unless it's REALLY bad to the point where the stem is bent and at that point you will need head work to repair the guide(s).

Just turning the engine over without knowing everything is perfectly clean will do damage.

I'm not telling you this because I want to see you spend more time and money but you're looking at $200-300 now or $200-300 later plus $500 in machining and repair parts.

Rebuilding these engines is not cheap, the main, cam and rod bearings alone are between $300 and $400. The best thing you can do is to prevent any damage from happening and sometimes it's a buzz kill but the other options are in the thousands.....

$0.02 it's your engine, do what you will.
I hear ya, i'm sure Kevin will be on here after he tests it and will do whats needed. Appreciate the advice.


**** In need of a harness, guy that said he had one hasn't returned my calls, if you know of one send them my way please!

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Old January 26th, 2011, 01:28 PM   #219
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One lesson I learned awhile back : If you don't have the power to change something, why let it ruin your day?
A very good lesson at that. I do my best to keep that in mind also. Hope things turn out well for you. Fingers are crossed.
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Old January 26th, 2011, 01:38 PM   #220
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[QUOTE=jeepbrattt;2517178]

One lesson I learned awhile back : If you don't have the power to change something, why let it ruin your day?

must of been all that time trying to change me...
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